Bell
Tor (SX 731778)
Adjacent to Bonehill, this is a very worthwhile venue, home to some superb problems and no way near as busy as the neighbouring Bonehill. Famous Grouse 6c V6/7 is one of the classic harder problems on The Moor and the other, more amenable problems are also very good. There is one drawback - many of the problems are quite high and some have very poor landings. A mat will prove useful, as will large cojones (or female equivalent).
Approach: Leave
the A38 at Drumbridges Roundabout, signed for Bovey Tracey.
Take the Bovey exit then drive for 1 mile ish to another roundabout. Take
the 2nd exit (signed Lustleigh) and carry on to another roundabout (1km).
Turn left here and take the left fork, signedWidecombe/Haytor. Continue on
this road for several miles, passing Haytor and Saddle
Tor on the right.
After passing a left
turn for Ashburton, take the next right and then take the first left (where
the ain road goes right). Pass Bonehill on the left then park on left opposite
a track).
Start off along this then after about 70 metres take a path that leads up
and R to the obvious Tor. Head to the bottom L side of the Tor where a large
break, topped by an overhang is the most obvious feature. The obvious alcove
to the R is home to problems 12-15. 5 minute walk-in.
1 4c Wall right
of arete.
2 V1 5c arete direct.
3 6a eliminate up left side of arete, not using boulder to start.
4 V3 6a L to R low traverse to finish up 2.
5 4c crack through roof.
6 6b eliminate to the left.
7 5b via jug on left of roof.
8 2c slab.
9 5a left hand side of slab, not using crack to the right.
10 4b left crack.
11 Chicken Head V1 5c From jug rail stretch up to chicken head, then
gain slab above. Nice landing!!
12 4c slabby wall.
3 6a/b crack/runnel to break then long reach to the top. Mat useful
and height dependent.
14 Famous Grouse V7 6c The obvious rounded jobby. Step onto the easy
slab and thus a slim groove above. A move up this leads to the left hand end
of the break. Reach up and left to a poor crystal, right hand up then tasty
move to top. Mat handy. Quite high but not too bad if you get it right. It
can, however, be tricky to suss out how to "get it right" as most
are not to keen on repeated falls from the finish as collision with the rock
at the start is possible!
15 V4/5 6b Arete/prow using holds on both sides.
16 V2 6a Open groove using large crystal to gain jugs.
17 V1 5c X Left-facing groove.
18 V0 5a Very fine slab down to left.
19 5a X flakes around roof.
20 Project 6b Very bold pull to gain the top slab above roof.
21 V2 6a Left arete is gained from the crack on the left.. A bit
sketchy to gain the arete then there's a pleasant surprise.
22 5b The dirty crack will soon clean up....if anyone climbs it!
23 5a Traverse right along obvious exposed shelf to gain ledge. The
crux is keeping your feet on - photogenic and exposed. 24 4c Traverse
beneath 23 to same finish.
25 6b V3/4 The right hand side of the innocuous-looking arete.
26 V0 5a Fine, short arete with downward pointing spike.
27 5a Left arete.
28 5a Start up 26, traverse R along top break then mantel jug on
R arete to finish.
Many more problems can be found around the summit block and rest of the Tor...
For those into walking and exploring carry on to the top of the hill, onto a large cairn. Down to the left of this is Chinkwell Tor, home to a few fine routes (on the obvious high wall) and also some boulder problems:
1 V2 5c Porkfat Traverse The excellent low R to L traverse along the bottom of the Tor starting at the sloping slab around to the R. Pat yourself on the back if you can get back along the traverse to the start without falling off.
2 5a Wide... The first section of Widecombe Wall then scamper off L along the break.
The next Tor along is Honeybag Tor, home to quite a lot of bouldering.
The nearest bouldering crags are: Bonehill | Hound Tor | Top Tor/Tunhill Area
