Black Hill Boulders SX760792
A fine collection of problems ranging from sub V0 to about V5 (easy to 6b/c). It is easily combined with a trip to Smallacombe Rocks for a big day out. Only a 10 minute walk-in!
Approach: Leave the A38 at Drumbridges Roundabout, signed for Bovey Tracey. Take the Bovey exit then drive for 1 mile ish to another roundabout. Take the 2nd exit (signed Lustleigh) and carry on to another roundabout (1km). Turn left here and take the left fork, signed Widecombe/Haytor.
After about 1.5miles uphill, just before entering Haytor Vale is a sharp right-hand turn (not signed for anywhere but marked by a sign for Widecombe and for Bovey on the left). Follow this for just over 1 mile and you'll arrive at a bridlepath on the left (just before a cattle-grid). Park considerately here.
Follow the bridlepath until it turns down the hill to the right. Continue on a vague path and the boulders will appear more or less straight ahead. The most rominent boulder is fairly large and pyramid-shaped. Further up the hill from here is another boulder, home to a couple of problems; the rest of the climbing can be found on rocks further down the hill.
1 V4 6b The obvious line up the wall
2 3b-4a Various lines up the pyramid boulder
3 6a The steeper face of the pyramid boulder, pulling over onto the slab above. Still a tad dirty.
4 V4 6b The centre of the face via a thin crack at the top.
4b It is also possible to traverse the top of the boulder from the left!
There is potential for several hard problems on the obvious undercut boulder on the left of the alcove.5 V4/5 6b Left to Right slopey traverse along the lip of the boulder, finishing by pulling round on better holds on the right.
6 V5 6b The bum start up the low groove
7 V1 5b The centre of the wall
8 V3 6a/b The right hand line, just left of the arete. Tricky pull and move to better holds.
9 V3 6a The slabby, right side of the right arete.
10 4a ish The slab right again
11 Rowes Arete V5 6b The superb arete on it's left side, also using a pinch in the crack to the left. Sit start goes at V6/7 ish. The crack will also go as a hard eliminate…
Just down the hill again is another fine boulder. The first problem takes the end face.12 V4/5 6b A fine problem up the end face. Sneaky foot-work and a spotter will be useful.
13 5a The undercut line on the right, moving left to a nice mantel type affair. A low start ups the grade to 5c
14 V4 6b The slabby face to the left of the flake, staying right at the top to avoid better holds on the left.
15 V4 6b Start as for 14, then do some smart moves right to gain a flake in the middle of nowhere. Move up onto this and finsih above.
16 5b A traverse from the left to finish just left of 14.
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