Further
up the hill again, on your L is THE CUBE:
THE CUBE
7 V0/1 5c wall
on face overlooking bottom car park/stream. No jumping off ground!
8 V0- 4c traverse of top break
9 V7 6b/c Left to Right traverse along lowest break (hands in break)
to finish up 10
10 V4 6a prow/nose. V5 6b with start in low break
11 V1/2 5c overhanging scoop
12 6? A two handed dyno from the bottom holds to the top.
13 3c crack
14 V3 6a The vague arete to the left of the blank wall
15 V5 6b Right to left
traverse starting from high jug on right. Keeping your feet out of the thin
low break makes for a better and harder problem (the vertically challenged
won't be able to reach it anyway).
16 V3 6a/bLow start to 6b traverse - direct to good pocket type hold
from crimps below (on right of wall). Either finish above or along the traverse.
17 V4 6b The quality
right arete, using both sides
18 V5 6b/c Start on low holds to both side of arete then long reach
up to right to crystal (with left hand) followed by fierce pull direct to
break. Finish along 15.
19 V2-V8 6a - 6c The wall to right of the arete has a selection of
eliminate problems
20 Lowla V7 6b/c An extended start to 15 along low break, then up
arete (18) and along into 15. A very good problem.
21 The Cube Traverse V8 6c It is possible, after 20, to reverse
14 then carry on left past 13 (eliminate crack) and into the scoop of 11.
Move round left on the thin break then either finish up 10 or reverse 9 (harder!)
Visible from THE
CUBE is a low traverse with 4 very noticeable, well-used slopers:
SLOPEY
TRAVERSE BLOCK - classic short traverse. Over chalked and consequently a bit
of an eyesore - go steady with the chalk and clean it off afterwards.
22 Slopey
Traverse V4/5 6b A right to left traverse on the well-used
slopers. Classic
23 V4/5 6b Extended start to Slopey Traverse from slightly further
right.
24 V5 6b The traverse from left to right, finishing by rock around
rightwards onto slab on the right (using the starting holds of Slopey Traverse
original. There and back (22 + 24 goes at V6)
On the opposite side
of the boulder is a green slabby face:
WARM-UP SLAB
25 V3 6b Undercut
nose on left. Start on slopers to either side of the nose. Sneaky toe/foot
jam on left.
26 4a Crack on left of wall.
27 V1 5c Several lines up centre of the wall. Also goes without hands/
one-handed.
28 V0 5b Flake right of centre, direct to finish.
29 V5 6b Right to left traverse. Start from flake of 28, traverse
with hands in the lowest break (not higher!) to crack of 26. Move left using
a high hold then drop down and finish up 25
30 V3 6a The blunt arete on the right using holds either side of
arete (easier version using reasonable hold in wall to left - about 5c). This
version just uses holds to the right and the poorish one on the arete. Either
finish direct, or move right to finish up the crack.
31 The Moor V9/10 7a The 2 poor holds on the right of the arete to
the big slopey hold above. A contender for the hardest single move on The
Moor? At this grade NO CHEATING HEEL HOOKS around the arete!! The 2 poor holds
on this seem to have got as little better recently - slightly easier now.
31 b Arkem V8 6c A bum start to the blunt arete. Keep to the holds
on the arete or on the wall to the right. Very fine. Eliminates are possible
on the move to gain the big sloper.
32 Project Very hard – link a bum start into The Moor without
using holds on the arete …ie. start in the v.poor low crack and no heel hooks
around the arete.Will be “proper” hard.
33 V3 6a Starting
on 2 low flat holds on right, traverse left, finishing across the boulder
arch
34 V2 5c The obviously grim top out above traverse 33
Walk down the hill
(towards road and Bell Tor) from the previous block and then turn left you
should come across a steep, green wall, undercut at it’s base and with an
obvious flake on the left:
THE
DARK SIDE
35 V0 5b The
left arete (not using flake to right)
36 V0 5a Obvious flake to the right of arete
37 The Dark Side V8 6c/7a The centre of the wall. Left hand on side-pull
pinch and right on poor feldspar crystal, followed by a hard step up and reach
for break. A left hand variant will also go. The Moor's hardest slab?
38 V1 5c A right to left traverse. Hardest move is getting started.
39 V2 6a It is possible to finish direct from 38. Quite high and
scary
40 V? 6b? The right arete has a particularly dodgy landing and I’ve
never seen chalk on it. I was informed it was 6b and that looks about right!
41 V0 5a To the right again is a short slanting crack
Up and to the left
of THE DARK SIDE is a block with obvious scoops on the R and
L. This is home to 3 of the best harder problems on the Moor, which are described
from right to Left:
THE SCOOPS - la creme
da la Moor for hard problems
42 V4 6b The Scoop
Hanging scoop up on the right has a precarious step up. Harder for shorties
who will have have to make a funny move before they can reach the jug at the
top - the tall can reach up more easily.
43 V5 6b The scoop without the small sidepull crystal on the right.
44 V8 6c The Left Arete of The
Scoop Starting with right hand at base of scoop and left on first
sloper on arete. Starting higher makes it slightly easier. A classic.
45 V8 6c Ivory Mountain The left arete of the obvious blank wall.
Start with 2 hands on finger-jug rail to the left (same start as 46). Either
finish direct above initial arete or follow the top of the wall out right
until a nice pull over to finish. The latter option is better and a bit pumpier..
46 V6 6b/c Left again is another scoop, undercut and with a finger
rail on it’s lip. A long lock gains slopey crystal up left, followed by a
scary (back breaking boulder beneath!) move to next break.
47 V? Hard Project. To the left of …. A bum start using a slopey
undercut/sidepull on the left. Long move to sloper or out right to the side
of scoop??
48 V4 6a/b Traverse from right to left along wall, starting lowish
on right.
49 V4 6a/b A couple of metres up from The Scoop 42 is a baby
gully. Climb the right wall starting up a very shallow groove to gain a sloping
ledge.
49b V5/6 6b Just to the right of 49 is a green slab (this is just
behind The Scoop). A good, thin problem. Similar to The Dark Side,
but a bit easier.
Down towards the road
from THE DARK SIDE is an obvious boulder bridging the gap between 2
other boulders:
THE BRIDGE - outlying
secteur with a smart traverse and some excellent, steep, jug hauling
50 The Bridge V1
5c A sometimes tricky start from the low break on the left leads to jugs
up the steep wall.
Moving under the bridge
is a long, low wall:
51 Under the Bridge
V6 6b Start as far right as possible and make a long low traverse along
the wall (obviously not using the top), under the bridge feature to finish
up 50. Seeps a bit in winter but dead good.
Up the rocky slope
to the R of THE DARK SIDE is the next area. The first boulder on the
left is home to the notorious “4c crack” (obvious). The large boulder to the
right forms the "summit" of Bonehill Rocks and is bounded on the
right by a gully. This wall, known as The TWIN CRACK wall, is characterized
by a small roof on the right and twin overhanging cracks in the centre. Problems
are described from R to L:
SECTEUR
TWIN CRACKS - some trad. style cracks and harder in-betweens
52 V0+ 5b The
scary and dangerous right arete is very fine! Crux at the top (E3ish).
53 V4 6b To the right of the twin cracks is an overhang, tricky to
start then slightly dangerous.
54 V0+ 5b The twin cracks
55 V1 5b Twin cracks with bum start
56 V5 6b Twin cracks followed with leftward traverse from top of
cracks along green, slopey break. May be easier if clean?
57 V6 6b/c Wall between 54 and 58. Low start which is quite hard
if you use the "approved" sequence.
58 V3 6a The left arete. Can also be gained by traverse from down
to the right to produce and excellent V4.
About 20ft left of
the TWIN CRACKS is a boulder, home to a very obvious and interesting
crack – the aforementioned “4c Crack“:
59 "4c"
Crack V0 5a The crack. Un/fortunately it is possible to bottle the finish
by stepping onto the adjacent boulder
60 V7 6b/c The rounded right arete, starting on left side and rocking
round onto right. Spotter and mats recommended!
Walking right from
The Twin Cracks you will see a white, rippled wall above an obvious granite
step:
RIPPLED WALL - A very
fine wall of excellent granite (topo above)
61 V3 6b The
left arete. Crux to start
62 Rippled Wall V3/4 6b Wall to the right of arete. A classic. The
first move is the crux and the finish can feel a little high.
62b Rippled Wall Bum Start V9 ish. John Gaskins' low start from holds
back in the cave! Doesn't use the obvious footledge/boulder on right at this
grade. Unrepeated ??
63 V2 5c An indirect start to 62 can be made by stepping left off
edge of the granite step, reducing the grade a little.
64 V3 6a The wall above the granite step to gain a sidepull/tiny
groove near the top and finish in the same place as 66. Quite scary above
a potentially awkward landing.
65 V2 6a Starting from an obvious white sidepull stretch to the break.
Finishing direct is scaryville - wimps escape out left.
66 Rippled Wall Traverse V1
5c A right to left traverse of the obvious break high. Scary to finish
but the hardest move is probably leaving the ground using undercuts (sneaky
easier version on right). Finish by pulling round at the large flake.
67 V1 5c The right arete, climbed on it’s left-hand side to start
then moving right to climb the scary slabby side.
67b Johnny Ball V6 6b A lie-down/bum start to 67.
68 V6-7 6b A left to right low level traverse can made, starting
up 62 and finishing up 66 (or pick another link up!). The grade may vary according
to what height you go at, but is given for the obvious level (ie do the first
move of 62 then traverse right at that level). The ultimate circuit of the
wall is to start up 62, reverse 66 then down 65 before moving left to finish
up 64
Opposite the rippled
wall is an undercut boulder/overhang:
69 V0 5a Using
the biggest holds - good footless variations/ variations on slopers exist…
Descending down a
steep, rocky path in the direction of Widecombe (THE TOWER is on your
right) a 25ft vertical wall is visible around to your left (the left-hand
side of the wall forms an obvious, sharp arete. This wall is just to the left
of a large pleasantly, angled slab). The problems on here could easily be
mistaken for routes:
UMPIRE WALL - mini
routes; scary and fingery
70 V0 5b (E2)
The left arete is good but bold.
71 You Cannot Be Serious V3 6a (E2) To the right of the arete
is an obvious large hold. Start on this, go direct above, then move right
at the top to finish steeply on big holds. Wimps can finish direct into the
groove (which is still scary!) or traverse right to step onto adjacent ledge,
72 The Umpire Strikes Back V2 6a (E4) From the top of the slab in
the gully (on right) step left and climb the wall to the top with a hard move
up near the start.
The obvious large
slab to the right with a deep crack up the centre:
BIG
SLAB - generally easier stuff that is a tad high
73 V0 5b Wall
to the L of deep crack. Crux to start - quite high but easier to finish.
74 3c The deep crack goes at Diff. and is often subject to school
group abuse.
75 4b-5a (VS) Various lines up the slab to the right of the deep
crack. Also goes one handed, hands free and several attempts have been made
to sprint up it.... so far these have resulted in some interesting sprints
back down again.
76 V2 6a A low/bum start up a hanging groove to reach right for a
big fat sloper at the bottom of the slab. Mantle onto this.
If stood at the bottom
of BIG SLAB (facing it) there is a gap between 2 boulders behind you.
Drop down this and turn right to:
THE INNOCCUOUS TRAVERSE
77 The
Innocuous Traverse V0 5b Follows slopers left to right along
the edge of the boulder to finish up crack on right.
78 Innocuous Extension V5 6b Start as for 77 then, missing
out the crack on the right move around onto the undercut right arete and finish
up it. A variant can be made which misses out the large flake/sidepull thing
by using the poor slopers/crystals to the left - this is quite hard (about
6c) if you stay low, just using the lower holds.
78b Innoculation V8 6c/7a In the middle of the innocuous traverse
is a slopey bit, just left of the good flake/sidepull thing. Beneath this
is an edge quite low-down. A bum start can be made from this to gain poor
slopey crystals, then a nice move to top out. Obviously at this grade the
sidepull flake or better holds to the left are not touched i.e. bit of an
eliminate so keep you blinkers on!
Back again from the
INNOCUOUS TRAVERSE is the aforementioned TOWER - the following
problem takes the obvious steep groove on the L, to the R of a small overhang/nose
(and L of a right angled corner):
THE
TOWER
79 V3 6a The
nose to the left of the groove. Quite scary.
80 V2 5c The groove (formed at the jucntion of two boulders), with
awkward moves to get stood on the nose to the left
80b VP Those interested in perverted squirms will delight in the
constricted chimney...don't wear your best clothes and consider getting oiled
up if you're large!
81 V6 6c 15 ft right of 80 is a low level roof (on the bottom right
edge of the rock). Start on lowest slopers on right. Make a footless move
then ungainly thug up and left until you can get our feet on. Traverse off
or continue to the top - easiest line about severe.
Just beyond the TOWER
is an undercut boulder:
SECTEUR NEIL DIAMOND
- One of those hidden areas of Bonehill with a few fine problems.
82 6b On the
undercut nose at the end of the boulder. Starting low, traverse right then
along until possible to pull round on slopers (sorry about the vague description
- not really an established problem but worth a look)
To the left of the
nose is a gently overhanging wall which is sort of diamond shaped. On the
right of the wall we have:
83 V5 6b Start
hanging on low holds on right with feet high on right (i.e. not on granite
slab beneath!). Move up and left until a final move gains a fairly good hold
on-top.
84 Tom's Traverse V4 6a/b On the left hand end of the boulder is
an obvious (I hope!) jug. Start down and right of this, then move up left
to jug. Traverse left along the top of boulder then across the gap to the
left. Keep on traversing left to a crack - not using the crack move up and
left to finish.
85 6c A low level variant to Tom's Traverse, which stays low
on the middle section moving across the gap. It will also be possible to traverse
the thin break leftwards under gap...
More problems can
be found on the other side of this boulder and on the boulders beyond - left
for your own discovery!
To the R of the BIG
SLAB is an impressive accutely overhanging, undercut wall:
THE
WAVE - From the boulderers' persective this is certainly one of the most impressive
features on The Moor
86 V4/5
6b The overhanging side of the left arete normally finishes by rocking
onto the slab just above the second break - if you're tough have a look at
moving right to finish on the steep side of the arete. This will be bold,
quite hard and above a poor landing.
86b Floater V9 6c A start up the left arete (86) leads
into the higher thin break travere. Finish up The Wave (87). An excellent
and long problem above a dodgy landy in places.
87 The Wave V6 6c The centre of the overhanging wall, using a “funny
monkey paw” sharp hold to move left to an obvious good hold on the lip then
a long lock to a scary finish - if you get scared either reverse and jump,
or a sneaky leftward traverse can be used to escape. If the hold on the lip
can be gained using tactics other than climbing (e.g. cheating block, being
tall) then the grade is 6b; has also been climbed footless to the deep break.
A classic problem up this superb feature.
88 Left Hander V7 6c Variant. Get sharp “monkey paw” of The Wave
(87) with lefthand and make a big slap to the deep green break.
89 V3 6a A long stretch to a hanging crack on the right. Can be linked
to the trench traverses (93) around the corner to provide a good pumpy problem.
90 The Wave Traverse V9/10 6c A very sustained traverse starting
as low as possible on the left and finishing up 89; can be linked to the other
problems on the wall:
91 Tsunami V10 Variant. Same start as 90 but finish up The Wave
(87). One can also finish up Left Hander, which is marginally harder than
finishing up the Wave.
92 Tsunami Extension V10 6c Another variant type
thing. Follow The Wave Traverse(90) to left hand starting hold of 89.
Match on this, then traverse back left and finish up The Wave. A bit of a
contrived link up problem but nevertheless another contender for The Moor's
hardest traverse.
The Green Room
V11/12 6c A long link-up which incorporates parts
of all the problems on The Wave. Start up Floater (86b), reverse the wave
(87) which leads into The Wave Traverse (90) and a finish up the lock off
to hanging crack on right (89). Power undurance with the bonus of a bad landing
section near the start.
Around to the right
is a more gently overhanging wall:
THE TRENCH - errr,
quite nice...
93 V1
5b A L-R traverse of the deepest break
94 6a Start as for 93 then traverse the lower break to rejoin 93
with a long lock-off
95 V3 6a/b Variation start to 94 along lower line off crimps
96 V3 6a Direct up the wall R of Bum Crack 97. Eliminates up to 6c
exist
97 5a Bum Crack The deep crack. Sit down start. Nice! Can be jammed
but this makes it much harder.
98 5b Wall L of the deep crack. Lower start goes at a crimpy 6a.
Look down the hill
from the trench and you'll see a a jumble of boulders to the left:
GREG’S DYNO SECTEUR
99 V1
5c The triangular shaped hanging slab not using side boulders.
100 5a Right again is a crack
101 V3 6a The wall to the right using right hand edge of the crack
Further right is an
obvious good hold with a thin runnel leading up and right:
102 Greg’s Dyno
V3 6a A jump from the obvious low hold to top. Mind out for sharp crystal
on top. Also goes static using runnel - easier!
103 6a The right arete, moving left to finish
104 Calmer V3 6a Around to the right, on the same boulder is an obvious
low hold to the right of a tiny roof. From this gain poor holds directly above.
A sneaky move makes it OK... a harder sequence is a good slap for the runnel.
The nearest crags are:
Bell Tor | Hound Tor |
Top Tor Area
Back to Dartmoor
Bouldering Introduction | Dartmoor Bouldering
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This venue, the
most popular on The Moor, contains a high concentration of quality problems.
Over the last few years many new lines have been cleaned and climbed, including
some of the classic hard problems of the Moor. There really is something for
everyone here with grades ranging from scrambling to V10/11 (English 7a).
The walk-in could not really be described as that - it's only a matter of
yards from the car! The perfect venue for those who want their climbing to
be convenient and of high quality. Bell Tor is very
close by and well worth a look if Bonehill seems too busy.
BABY
SLAB
