Although boulderers have been making the occasional visit to this venue for a number of years it has recently seen more dedicated attention and most of the lines have now been climbed and documented. The area is nice and quiet with plenty of lower/middle grade action. A large brush will come in handy as some of the top outs are a little dirty!
Problems in bold text indicate better quality. A "metolius" is the term used for lumps of finer-grained rock that are prolific at the Tor - due to their similarity to Metolius holds!
Text and topos based on the original screenplay by Moorman Jason Maddick - cheers Jase!
Approach: As for Bonehill/Bell Tor. Walk up to the obvious first Tor (Bell Tor), continue to the top of the hill and then onto the next Tor. This is Honeybag. Some of the blocks are visible on way down from Chinkwell Tor - over on the right is the obvious Flying Arete (problem 27) and the 20ft wall is visible over on the left. Continue up to the top of the hill for:
Summit Blocks Secteur
Problem 1 can be found on top of the hill, near The Summit Block, on an obvious 45 degree roof:
1 Scar Tissue V5 6b A traverse of the low crackline on the overhanging block - left to right. When you get to the far right end move up leftwards for a few moves to pull over.
2 Cicatrice V5 6b/c Direct line through the steepest section of roof.
3 V1 5b On the far right side of the block is a good hold on a low lip. Start on this and mantel.
4 V4 6b Start on same hold as 3 but traverse left along slopers to the finish of Scar Tissue.
5 V1 5b/c The left wall of the small alcove starting on slopey shelf under roof.
6 V1 5c Left side of short slabby rock using only crystals (easier with use of small edges!)
7 V1 5c The small roof starting on the lowest shelf.
8 4c Direct up the wall and block on top.
9 V1 5b Left side of the block starting on low edges. Nice.
10 V1 5b Right side of block eliminating large shelf on right as foothold.
11 V1 5c Direct up the front of the arete.
12 4b Short problem up the flake and large Metolius.
13 Melliferia V3 6a Excellent short arete. Start with right hand on Metolius and left hand on the Metolius under the roof. Direct up the arete.
14 4c The nice wall direct.
15 V1 5a The crack up the centre of the leaning tower.
16 Syrup Sack Arete V3 6a The very good rounded arete direct. Start on low flake, reach up to Metolius on right followed by good moves above. No feet on boulder under start.
17 V2 6a Left side of fine wall.
18 V2 6a Wall direct using break and crytals above - good.
19 V1 5a The v-groove up to the roof then either left or right.
20 V1 5b/c Wall direct to slight groove at top.
21 P Direct line up the steeper part of the wall to flakes near top.
22 P Arete via low flake - E1 (done before?)
23 P Overhanging prow.
24 V2 6a Start on low shelf. Long reach right then nice top out!
25 V3 6a Start on lowest holds on the right. A few tough pulls gain the top.
26 Crack Pot VS 25' A phenomenal route up the awesome crackline on the main summit block. The crux is near the top. Could this be the best VS at Honeybag Tor??
Le Secteur Flank Eastern
A small secteur of mostly small problems. The Flying arete of problem 27 is easily spotted from the approach path and other problems are found further over to the right.
27 Flying Visit V9 6c Flying arete direct from a low start. Not the best landing.
28 V2 5c Wall right of arete.
29 V1 The vague groove/flake.
30 V1 5b/c Rounded arete direct.
31 V2 5c Start on the lowest flake on the right and traverse leftwards, finishing up just before problem 30.
32 V2 6a The wall right of the arete using sloping shelf.
33 V2 6a Short arete starting on low crimps either side.
34 V1 Wall left of the arete past the cracked Metolius.
35 V3 6a Direct mantel over the overhanging nose.
36 V2 5c Left side of small roof. Start in low break and lunge up for the Metolius on the lip. Finish slightly leftwards.
37 V5 The right side of the roof. Start on two low holds and go direct throught the roof using the two crimps on the overhang, mantel over.
38 P The sloping arete. Start in break on left; reach up to the arete and traverse right to a hard finish.
39 V2 5c Start as for 38 but just rock over onto bottom of arete.
Secteur Short Walls
The best area of Honeybag is a line of buttresses 8-12ft high. The landing are generally good and many of the problems have particularly fine top-outs!
From the Summit Blocks continue Northwards for about 300 yards, passing a couple of 15ft high blocks/walls (a few problems). You should pass problems 1-3 on the way. The main sector becomes apparent when you're right there. Starting on the far left side (facing the crag!):
40 V2 5c The slab direct.
41 Crystal Arete V2 5c The arete and slab, up to a good Metolius in the break, then nice step up left.
42 V1 5c The wall on the right. Straight up from large Metolius using the slopey break above.
43 Bees Wax V3 6b Short wall to the left of Marmalade Wall. Use poor crystals on the slopey ledge to get the large ball Metolius on the wall above.
44 Marmalade Wall V2 6a Start on the low shelf, up to slopey shelf followed by a fine pull over the top on slopers. A good problem.
45 V1 5b Start on the low flake of the traverse. Go left to holds in break then straight up and over.
46 Hornet Traverse V1 5b/c Start on the low flake and traverse the break rightwards to finish up the arete.
47 V1 5c Halfway along the traverse make a long move up to the higher flake-line. Mantel to finish.
48 V0 5a The short arete on the right.
49 4b The left wall of the alcove, via horizontal breaks.
50 V2 6a The left of the wall, from hands in low break, via crystals and a nice top-out! No left arete.
51 V0 5a The vague groove/flakes.
52 Sting in the Tail V2 5c Direct up the front face. NO moving left around the arete to top out!
53 Liquid Amber V2 5c Direct up the right hand other buttock cheek!
54 V1 6a A two-move wonder up the slab on the right. No left arete at this grade.
55 Beeline V3 6a The low overhanging prow. Bummer start. Start left hand low down on arete; right hand in bottomof crack; up to good pinch and swing rightwards to finish up flakes.
56 V1 5b The left arete and wall.
57 Smart Short Wall V2 6a Central line starting on low holds with long reach to breaks above.
58 Short Smart Wall V2 6a The right hand line. Start low and going direct past the Metolius.
59 Best of Both Worlds V3 6a Start as for 58, traverse the low break leftwards to the arete. Move up then traverse the high break back rightwards to finish as for 58.
Forty yards over to the right:
60 V1 5b The vague cracks on the left arete. Doesn't go over the top block.
61 V3 6a/b Start on the undercut and make a long move leftwards to the good hold on top.
62 Meat Market V2 6a/b A direct up the wall off the undercut to gain the rbeak above.
63 Haldon Hunk V5 6b The short but good right arete from a sitting start. Start in low break; move up to crimp on left wall then lay one on up right to schloper. V3 from standing with left hand on crimp.
64 V0 5b Mantle over the bulge starting on good hold. Using the flake to the left makes it a bit easier.
65 V1 5b/c The bulge a few yards left of the flake.
About 100 yards down and left from Secteur Mini-Buttresses are some more boulders, identified by several Rowan trees growing from the rocks. Dost thou mantel? ... a good area for honing your mantelling skills!
66 4c The flake-line up the back buttress. Crux at top.
67 V2 6a Start in the low break and go direct past the slopey shelf, using crystals and jams to get above.
68 V2 5c A good problem up the crack/flake through the bulge.
69 P Another line over the blank bulge.
70 V1 5c The end bulge. Start both hands either side of the bulge and swing up leftwards.
71 V4 6b Using the two large crystals/knobs, mantel/pull over direct. now also goes from jams under the roof and uses a very poor slopey pinch on the lip to get into the original problem! Goes at hard V5 6b/c.
72 V2 5c Start low on a good flat handgrip! Reach left to the finger rail and mantel.
73 V7 Start as far right as possible. Traverse down the flake-line along the finger rail past the large crystals and into problem 70.
74 V2 6a The short arete, starting left hand on Metolius and right hand in crack on right.
75 V1 5c Direct through roof. Starting on low shelf and up to cracks/flakes above.
76 V1 5b Wall above tree. High.
77 V1 5b Wall right on tree.
Dartmoor Bouldering Contents
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