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Raven's Tor (sx762819)

Situated near the top of Lustleigh Cleave this venue provides a small number of excellent problems with some of the best views on the Moor - a stunning setting! The only potential drawback is finding the place - a convex hillside makes it more or less impossible to see from directly above and to make matters worse the path is overgrown in the summer months. There are stacks of boulders around the area for those looking keen on jungle bashing and exploring. Of particular note are Raven's Rocks 2 - halfway between this crag and Harton Chest. There are several photos to be found in the photo index!

Approach: See Lustleigh Cleave. From the parking spot near Logan Stone House take the path on the left and follow the direction signed Hunter's Tor (i.e. turn right when it forks after gate). Slog up the hill and follow the path right along the top to the ridge, passing Harton Chest (large rocks - routes and a couple of problems). About 5 minutes passed Harton Chest try and find a path down left through the gorse (just by a (hopefully!) prominent triangular shaped, light coloured lump of granite on the path) - if you're lucky this will lead to the crag!!

Raven's Tor Topo

1 V2 5c The short wall right of the groove with a fiddly little pocket and tricky finish.
2 V4 6b A bum start to problem 1.
3 V1 5c The runnel/groove to the left.
4 V2 5c The left arete on the left side is a bit scary.
5 V1 5c The right hand side of the sharp arete on the left of the wall.

Over to the left is a high bit of rock with obvious large roof:

6 Overkill V5 6b The main line through the roof. A long span gains good holds on the lip, followed by a physically and emotionally challenging rock-over to glory.

Walking down the hill there is a large boulder to your left. On the lip is a good hold:

7 Hung Like a Chimp V6 6b Either make an exciting jump off the boulder to the right, or stretch from the back of the roof (tall people only!) to gain the jug on the lip. From here struggle to the top. Finishing may require the use of a funky no-footed palm-down type thing or your knee! A classic (of it's genre).

8 Slopey Traverse V3 6a To the right is an alcove with an obvious slopey traverse start on far left and finish on right. For the ultimate rebirthing experience climb up into the cave/tunnel above and exit through a small gap at the end!

Right again is a higher problem:

9 Harton Chestwing V2 6a The obvious line with a long span rightward to gain a good hold at the top - the finish can be a tad scary!

9b V6 6bThe line to the right of 9, via a right hand on the obvious large crystal with your right hand. Good fall potential.

The next boulder down the hill provides a clean slabby front face. From left to right we have:

10 4c The left-hand line.
11 V4? 6b Central slab stepping up onto narrow ledge to start and finishing above.
12 V3? 6a The shorter right hand problem has a rounded finish.

Down again is an impressive angular boulder with a high face on the lower side:

13 V3 6a Left hand side of right arete
14 Project V10 or higher? Centre of wall
15 Project 6b? P Prow/Arete thing will be climbed on crystals. Not an ideal landing and quite high.
15b  V2 6a Start on the platform and move up the wall left of the arete. photos

Over to the left (facing down the hill) is a fine wall just in the trees, with a superb thin crack in the middle:

16 V2 6a A delightful problem which is technical. The finish can be tricky and the fall can be a little grating! photo

Questing off into the woods in all directions will probably reveal many more boulders!


Back to Dartmoor Bouldering Introduction | Dartmoor Bouldering Contents | Lustleigh Cleave

 


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