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MANATON ROCKS SX746816

This area has a limited supply of problems... pretty much all of these are very fine, in fact Yew Jeste V4/5 6b and Shelf Life V7 6c would definitely get a place on a list of Dartmoor must-dos. The former is a bit on the high side but you'd be unlikey to fall of the top if you get there... you may decide to reverse though! Suffice it to say that a mat will take the sting out of things and also help reduce erosion from repeated falls.

 

Above Left: The left-hand finish to Yew Jeste V4/5 6b Right: Shelf Life V7 6c

Approach: Leave the A38 at Drumbridges Roundabout, signed for Bovey Tracey. Take the Bovey exit then drive for 1 mile ish to another roundabout. Take the 2nd exit (signed Lustleigh) and carry on to another roundabout (1km). Turn left here and take the right fork, signed Manaton.

Drive through Manaton until the church is visible on your right - park in the adjacent car park.

Walk through the church gate, through the graveyard to exit through a gate onto the footpath. Turn right (signposted Manaton Rocks) and walk up the path to the summit of the hill (sign for summit on right). Problems can be found around the summit rocks - there is no access problem for these. More rocks are found just down and left - only some of the problems are detailed as bouldering further down the hill puts you well and truly in someone’s garden. 5 minute walk-in.

ACCESS PROBLEM Please note that access problems have been reported at this venue and inclusion does not imply any right to access. As far as I'm aware those who have been moved on were on rocks lower down from those detailed below (i.e. obviously in someones garden) - these don't really have any worthwhile bouldering on, and it's all dirty anyway.

The following problems are found on the large boulders (up to 20 feet in height) just down from the summit block, immediately left of the approach path - an obvious alcove (containing Shelf Life) in the centre is an easily distinguishable feature. Left of this is a high (by bouldering standards) lump of rock, the left arete of which is taken by Yew Jeste.

1  6a The nose using everything. Lots of eliminates exist...
2  The Shelf 5b Left to right traverse along obvious shelf, starting at the back of the alcove. No bridging at this grade.
3  5a The groove the back of the alcove.
4  Shelf Life V7 6c. The wall left of groove, starting as high as you can reach. Excellent. There are two ways of doing this - originally the problem moved out left to use a good looking edge (after matching on the first edge you can reach) at V8 (photo at top of page shows this sequence). Avoiding the match and hold out left, and instead going straight up with right hand to poor high edge actually makes the problem a little more amanable (about V7).
5  Shelf Life With an Extended Start V8 6c A direct bum start (tricky move!) to the Shelf Life. Another extended start can be done form holds on the right – easier but still fine. If this is combined with the original sequence (using hold out left - see above) the grade is about V8+.
6  6b/c V6 Start as for 5 then traverse left until possible to move up to top out. A funny move above an awkward landing.
7  6a Slab right of crack, then finish up the high but not-too-hard wall above.
8  5a The central crack is not far off Dartmoor route size. The crux is the start but the finish is a tad high.
9  Yew Jeste V4 6b. The left arete, starting on left side from small flake on arete and finishing direct (on right side)
10  Left hand finish to Yew Jeste V4 6b. After the hard starting moves, move left beneath the roof then climb direct above via a thin crack.
11  V5 6b/c A direct start to 10. Grade dependant on your height and the thickness of bouldering mat!
12  Granite Kiss 5a The "weed choked fissure" on the left side of the wall has rebuffed many attempts! The weeds should be left in-situ as they add to the character!

If you fancy further exploration of the area please remember the access problem and look to the other side of the Summit Block (i.e back up to footpath, turn left and go on to stile. Turn right and look around! There's not loads but you may find something that tickles your pinky.


The nearest crags are: Sacrificial Virgin Boulder | Lustleigh Cleave | Hound Tor | (crag X)

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