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Sacrificial Virgin Boulder SX 782814

Dartmoor's answer to Joshua Tree is a superb and rather high boulder, located in a smart field. Some excellent problems but rather limited in quantity. When driving around the beautiful village of Lustleigh you cannot fail to notice that several gardens contain boulders... try and chase up those distant relatives/old friends just in case any own any of these!!

Note: becoming overgrown - take a brush but be discreet!

Approach: Leave the A38 at Drumbridges Roundabout, signed for Bovey Tracey. Take the Bovey exit then drive for 1 mile ish to another roundabout. Take the 2nd exit (signed Lustleigh) and carry on to another roundabout (1km). Carry straight over here (also signed Lustleigh), and continue along this road until a left turn is signed Lusteigh.

Park in Lustleigh near to the Church. Walk down a short road (Post Office on corner) to a park . Follow the path through here, up alongside a stream. Cross the stream by a bridge then follow the path through woods and back over the stream to the right until a field is visible on the right. The boulder is obvious (4 minute walk-in). When approaching the boulders' most obvious feature is the central overhang-topped corner which goes at 6a (problem 6).

There is another parking spot even closer to the crag but you can find that for yourselves - I don't want to encourage too many people to park there or there'll be no space for me!


Problems: 10 listed ranging from 3b - 6b.

1 V0+ 5c Left side of wall up to side pulls
2 V2 6a The wall, using the obvious black boss. The boss can be eliminated for a harder problem.
3 V3 6a Start hanging on the obvious square boss then make footless move out right to a hold. Finish up 4. You are allowed your feet but they don't really help.
4 V0 5b The groove to the right.
5 V0 5b Wall right of groove on chicken heads.
6 V3 6a The central corner. Quite high. When you've reached around the top roof (using funny black pebble thing in roof), move a little bit left for a more pleasant finish. Topping out direct also goes but can be a bit unnerving!
7 Desire V3 6a Start up the corner then make a stretch out right to a flake line. Move up this with crux at top. An essential tick for aspiring Dartmoor boulderers. High!
8 6b(?) The wall/rounded arete to the right is overgrown and climbs through a tree. Rumoured to be 6b but not worth cutting down the tree and ivy.
9 V0 5b Up and right is a short wall.
10 3b Right again is the easiest way up the boulder. This is also the descent.

 


The nearest crag's are: Lustleigh Cleave | Manaton | Hound Tor

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