Tunhill Rocks Area
Top Tor (SX 736763) Tunhill Rocks (SX 732758)
A collection of Tors within friendly walking distance of each other provide a good selection problems. A very pleasant and quiet area.
Tunhill has the highest concentration of problems and has some excellent problems, including the classic Mr Wilson V5. Well worth a visit.
A special thankyou to messrs Rainbow and Maddick for their help with this guide!
Approach: Leave the A38 at Drumbridges Roundabout, signed for Bovey Tracey. Take the Bovey exit then drive for 1 mile ish to another roundabout. Take the 2nd exit (signed Lustleigh) and carry on to a further roundabout (1km). Turn left here and take the left fork, signed Widecombe/Haytor. Continue on this road for several miles, passing Haytor and Saddle Tor on the right.
There is a carpark on the left just beyond a cattlegrid and left turn to Ashburton. Top Tor is now visible up to your left. A well trodden path leads directly to this at a low wall:
5c A superb and long left to right traverse of the obvious upper (slopey) break starting as far possible on the left.
6b There is also a low break running parallel to the upper one. Traverse left to right then make a hard move up at it's end, using a poor sloping edge.
Continuing on (South) about 200 yards is Pil Tor, home to a small number of more amenable problems.
About 200 yards beyond (S.West) Pil Tor is an innocent-looking collection of rocks on top of a hill - this is the top of Tunhill Rock. On arrival at Tunhill (you will notice the remnants of an olde settlement) the first sector you come to is The Equisite Lumplets. From here the bouldering spreads out down the hillside as far as a wall.
On the North Side:
1 4a The centre of the wall.
2 V3 6a Traverse from left to right starting at the arete and using anything below the top of the boulder.
3 V4 6a/b Sitting start on the arete and keeping low on the traverse, using the obvious break.
Problems 2 + 3 can be extended by continuing onto the North face and traversing without using the top or the break (about 5b).
4 5a/b Up problem starting left of the vertical weakness in the middle of the boulder.
This face holds a number of other up problems.
Exquisite Lumplet #2
5 4a Pleasant wall.
6 V2 6a Sitting start on the right from small crystal crimp
7 V4 6b Right to left traverse along obvious line of holds and up to crystal. Better if flake at the end of traverse is avoided.
8 V3 6a The arete with a bum start.
Exquisite Lumplet #3
9 5a Reach from obvious hold to break. Finish direct. (Dyno directly to the top has also been done - ungradeable!).
10 5b Start as for 9 but climb direct, finishing at notch in roof.
11 5c Step right onto arete from large hold in lower break up to obvious vertical crystal. Holds just above lower break used.
12 5b/c Left to right traverse of the lower break.
And around on the North Face:
13 5a Centre of wall direct.
Just down below the Equisite Lumplet area is a large steep wall:
A very fine and rare feature with a number of excellent problems! From Right to Left:
14 V3 6a Right hand arete of the leaning face.
15 Mr. Wilson V5 6b The excellent central line via sloper/pinch, starting from bottom break and with a scary finish.
16 V2 5b Left to right traverse of lowest break, starting just left of the very steep face (strenuous) - can be extended into 14.
17 Tunhill Traverse V5 6a/b Left to right traverse of the sloping break, starting beneath the roof on the left (at problem 21) then moving up and following the traverse line right passing the beak on Nobby Styles.
18 P Start just left of problem 15 - ape for holds in break, reach for sloper with right hand and direct for break off this. Finish slightly left. (A duff variation on Mr Wilson)
19 Nobby Styles V4 6a/b Start in big break then with some cunning footwork head out around roof and to the 'beak' of rock. Finish up the arete.
20 P Climb directly through the roof just left of the beak to finish up 19 or 21.
21 5c? Climbs the roof and face to the left of 20. Uses a horizontal hold just below the roof with right hand.
To the left is the Undercut Block
22 V2 6a Climb the obvious cleaned break (the lowest one on the boulder) from left to right, starting with a bum start under the roof and lunging for the obvious jugs on the lip. Strenuous, sharp but good fun!
Tucked away behind and slightly up from the undercut block is a small slab, leaning against a rock. This is The Little Slab:
23 6a The left arete of the slab climbed on its left hand side. A very good problem - eliminating the flat hold just right of the arete as a foothold increases the difficulty considerably.
24 5b Start with both hands on the flat hold mentioned above and climb the arete on its right hand side. More difficult than it looks.
Down and left from the Equisite Lumplets is a slightly overhanging wall, easily identified by a block leaning against is right side. This is the Leaning Block Lump:
25 5c The left hand line. Bum start to boss of rock, then direct.
26 V3 6a Middle line has some slopers!
27 V4 6a/b Bum start to 26.
28 V5 6b The right hand line, up a slim groove (just left of the leaning block)
29 V4 6a Right to left traverse of the lowest break.
Dropping down the hillside a level is a relatively high tower of granite is reached, with a fine slopey traverse at its base:
30 5c/6a Start right of the obvious traverse line. Hands on edge, feet not allowed to drop on last move.
31 A two move wonder up the vertical crack.
32 6b Move right into the good break to a hard, powerful top out.
33 Homestead 6a A gymnastic and scary problem tackling the roof at its widest point. A good idea to have a spotter, and a mat wouldn't go amiss (note the unobvious flat boulder on the ground!).
34 5c A tough start (6a if heel hook/knee bar eliminated), then up and left to good holds.
35 6a Start as for 34 but continue directly.
A fine feature situated at the bottom of the slope.
36 5a/b The left hand arete (but not using the arete at all)
37 The Eden Project 6b Climbs the central arete of the slab. High technicalities.
38 6a The line just left of (and not using) the central crack.
39 4c The central crack. A good, easier problem.
40 6a A short problem climbing the slab just right of the crack but avoiding the arete.
41 4c The short, but pleasant right arete of the slab.
10 yards to the left is a high, easy angled slab:
42 4? Pad up the slab.
About 50 yards down and left from the Leaning Block Lump is the:
A roof that is well hidden!
43 5b Start at the back of the cave with left hand on first good hold. Climb directly without using the crack or any holds to its right.
44 6a Start as for 43 but cross right to obvious hold on the right of the crack. Dyno for the top and mantleshelf to finish without using the crack.
45 5c Right to left traverse of the lip. Finish as for 43
46 5a The crack. Use the chockstone. Avoid holds outside of the crack.
Nearest bouldering crags are: Bonehill | Saddle Tor
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