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Northcott Mouth

Northcott Mouth is a smart beach bouldering venue just North of Bude, on the North Coast of Cornwall.

The bouldering is mostly on very smooth, sea-washed Culm. This rock is not too abrasive but given it's lack of friction, you will have to pull quite hard! The landings can vary from gnarly rocky stuff to perfect flat sand. As a result the beach level changes frequently and dramatically.

All types of problem can be found but the most best represented genre is the "flippin pumpy as you like traverse". Grades range from very easy to V9/English 6c/ Font 7c (with Red Quinny). Another note on grades is that they will vary depending on the beach level.

How to get there If you are coming from Exeter/A30 come off at the Sourton Cross, and turn right for Holsworthy/Bude. Keep following signs to Holsworthy, pass through here and keep on signs for Bude. Eventually you will arrive at Stratton, and a T-junction 100yards after a small hospital. Turn right here (a tricky move!) and take a left turn after about 50 yards, signed for Poughill. Follow this road for 3/4 mile ish and take the first left (for Poughill). Drive into the village, passing a pub on the right, until the first right (by a shop) is signed for Northcott. Take this and follow it for about 1 mile to the sea - there is a National Trust car park on the left.

From the car park head down and right to the beach, then turn left (south). Keep walking and exploring and you should find some stuff!

Tides This is the only real drawback! The crag is seriously affected by the tide, although once you get to know the area you will be able to get quite a long session! Using the cliff top path is it is possible to access most areas fairly soon after high tide - some with more difficulty than others!

Conditions As with most seaside crags, greasiness and post-high-tide damp can be a problem. Some locals use a blowtorch, which could be a bit on the extreme side as it will probably damage the rock (if you do resort to this please use it sparingly and hold it some distance away from the rock!). A more PC option is to take a towel, some rags and a LOAD of chalk - if you make a chalky mess don't worry too much as it will get washed off when the tide comes in!
Further details are available in The Climbers Club North Devon and Cornwall Guide...


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