Easdon Rocks SX729823
This venue is home to a dozen or so problems and is well worth a look - The Easdon Slab, Crack and Arete trilogy are all essential Dartmoor ticks!
Approach: From Hound Tor take the Moretonhampstead Road. This leads along, over cattle grid, passing Jay's Grave and cross roads (turning right would take you to Manaton). Just under 1km beyond the cross roads a small turning for Easdon Cotages is seen on the right. Drive up here for a short distance to very limited parking at the outside the farm - please park VERY considerately on the right if there's space. (If there are already cars parked go back down to main road and turn right - after a short distance parking is possible in a widening of the road.... if in doubt DO NOT PARK by the cottages - opt for the latter parking).
From the parking at the farm/cottages head up the track, veering left, until a gate is reached. A hundred yards or so after this turn left off the main path and follow vague paths (sometimes boggy and a little prickly) to the obvious collection of rocks. On arrival a large overhang is visible on the left (problems 11-14) and over to the right is a superb block with very obvious overhanging arete - Easdon Arete.
1. Easdon Crack V5 6b The excellent flared crack is sustained and quite high.
2. Easdon Arete V7 6c THE problem of the crag and one of the Moor's finest takes the blatantly obvious overhanging arete direct. A big slap is needed to gain the small granite ball high on the arete. A good heel hook on the right helps for the holding the ball! (originally done without at a slightly higher grade).
3. V2 6a A long move from the flake to gain the sloping top. V3 6a if the crimp just below the top is used with right hand.
4. Easdon Slab V2 6a The excellent slab.
5. Tog's Wall V3 6a Thin wall on crystals. A bit harder for the short and with a scary finish.
6. V2 5c Traverse the break leftwards to gain and finish up arete of 7.
7. V1 5b/c The undercut arete with large flakes. Hardest at the start.
8. V3 6a The wall. From the pinch/undercut to crimps with left hand then break above. Doesn't move left at the top out at this grade.
9. Traverse the break from the left will go but needs a good clean.
10. V0 5a Short problem from lower crimps reach right to large granite ball.
11. 5c Through the overhangs. High, dirty and scary. The right hand side of the roof at it's widest point. (Nick Hancock os solo)
12. 6b Vague break through centre of overhangs. High, dirty and scary. (Nick Hancock - led onsight then soloed)
13. V2 5c Start on the first chicken head, traverse right to second and then mantle.
14. V3 6a Extended start to 13 - start on large low flake and traverse into 13. A good problem.
A few hundred yards North East of Easdon Rocks a 25ft pinnacle can be found on the hillside. This provides a couple short solos at about VS.
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