Bact to North Coast New Routes Page
HALLDRINE COVE GR 418 372
Thanks to Jamie Wakeham for the following information! Photos of the crag can be found here! Please note that this crag has been climbed on for years and some if not all of the routes detailed below will have been climbed before the ascents detailed below. Thus the First Ascents dates relate to their first recorded ascent.
This is a small crag, almost totally overshadowed by the proximity of its similarly natured big brother Bosigran. It has certain charms that Bosigran does not possess, however; it is much quieter, even in midsummer, and being shorter in stature all of its climbs can be lead in a single pitch. All of the routes climbed to date are in the lower grades, well protected and with little route finding difficulty. This makes the crag an excellent choice for new or inexperienced leaders who do not wish to be swamped by the scale and popularity of Bosigran.
Approach from the coastal path running east from Bosigran. As you pass above the cove beyond the Seaward Cliff, Halldrine comes into view. Take the second of two paths running down towards it, and descend to some broad ledges on the western side of the cliff. An easy groove leads you down to the belay of Geological Groove.
1. * Geological Groove 30m Difficult
Start at a black-coated slab down and left of the broad rocky arrival ledge.
Climb the slab to a groove that leads to a small overhang, which is passed
by a move out to the left. FA Cliff Assault Wing 1955
Moving leftwards (facing in) brings you to an upward-angled v-groove which leads onto a long ledge from where most of the crag’s climbs begin.
2. * The Love Wagon Rides Again 25m Severe
Belay from the top of the v-groove, directly below a large hanging flake.
Make a couple of delicate moves rightwards, passing a triangular niche. Climb
straight up to the flake via a ledge and a bulge. Surmounting the flake itself
proves to be the crux. FA J Wakeham and C Atkinson 15.8.2003
3. Barnaclet 33m Difficult
From the left side of the ledge, below the two large overhangs, make easy
moves up and rightwards, passing the right-hand overhang on its right side.
FA 10.4.1986 unknown
4. Slow-worm 30m Very Difficult
Start as for Barnaclet. Move up to the right-hand overhang. Pass this on its
left side via an exposed but well-protected step. Pass the left-hand overhang
on its right side. FA J Wakeham and C Atkinson 17.8.2003
5. Shrimpet 30m Very Difficult
From a belay at the top of an easy chimney rising from the previous belay
ledge, follow the line of grooves and cracks to the right of a tall black
slab, passing the left-hand overhang on its left side. Steep in the upper
section.FA unknown 10.4.1986
6. Inverted V-Groove 30m Difficult
The deep grooves immediately right of the tall slab. Can be slightly grubby…FA
Cliff Assault Wing 1955
Attempts were made on the slab itself; something of an eliminate between Inverted V-Groove and the oddly named Limpet Slab. Unfortunately, though the climbing is superb, the gear peters out halfway up just as the moves become harder! A grade between HVS 4c and E2 5a is suggested.
7. * Limpet Slab 30m Very Difficult
Start on the black slab, moving quickly to the airy arête on the left
(loose in places). Move back right at the top.FA M Hardy and R G Pettigrew
28.7.1956
8. * Osteopath Wall 25m Very Difficult
From the belay ledge of routes 2-4, follow a foot traverse leftwards from
the bottom of the chimney. Belay below the broad overhang just to the left
of Limpet Slab where the traverse opens into a deep gash. Traverse leftwards
along the gash to a criss-crossed wall. Climb this to a groove and move immediately
right onto an arête. Climb this and the slab above.FA J Wakeham and
C Atkinson 16.8.2003
9. Crabwise 30m Difficult
An attempt to make best use of the remaining rock. Start as for Osteopath
Wall, continuing to more leftwards below the criss-crossed wall and below
a large overhanging sheet of rock. Continue to traverse using either of two
foot-ledges (the higher of the two is easier). Reach the arête at the
far left of the crag and belay. FA J Wakeham and C Atkinson 16.8.2003
Drop Out Hard Severe 4b #
Traverses leftwards under an overhang starting from the bottom of Limpet Slab.
Continue horizontally until able to step down onto an airy ledge under a second
slight overhang. The route finishes up and left of this face. Can be done
in 2 pitches to minimise rope drag on the end section. Good gear apart from
on the final traverse section. FA Thomas Gilbert, Theo Floyd 15/09/03