Hard Bouldering in the South West UK

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HARD CORNISH BOULDERING
compiled by Barnaby Carver

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PROBLEM
GRADE CRAG DESCRIPTION FIRST ASCENT REPEATS COMMENTS

Cave Traverse V8 (6c) Helman Tor Painful crimp traverse on gently overhanging wall of cave. John Fletcher 2002 None Many sharp small holds

Moves Me
V8 (6c)

Helman Tor

Climbs powerfully up a rounded nose on slopers.
Chris Hall 2005

None
Feels desperate or impossible depending on conditions!

Pond Wall
(with sit-start)

V7 (6b/c)

Carn Brea
Soggy-bottom start into a knee-bar and rounded top-out.
Andy Whall 2006

None
The original stand-start problem V6 (6b), established by Chris Hall in 2001, has seen a number of repeats.

Yep
(with sit-start from below and left)

V7 (6b/c)

Carn Brea
A long reach across a roof to gain a small flake and hard rockover finish.
Andy Whall 2004

None
Yep V6 (6b) from standing, first done by John Fletcher in 2001, is an innocuous looking but hard problem with a number of variations.

Blown Away V7 (6b) Carn Brea A long low-traverse on sloping holds to a hand-jam finish. John Fletcher 2001 Bob Lambourne, Andy Steinberg. A hard extension to an old problem of Bob Lambourne’s named Swept Away.

Injected Persistence V9 (6c) North Cliffs Blind slap moves into sloping finger-pockets. Dave Biggs 2005 Barnaby Carver This problem is located on the north coast near The Wave. On a par difficulty-wise with many of the area’s V8s.On a par difficulty-wise with many of the area’s V8s.

Controvo-scopy

V9 (7a) Godrevy, Cornwall. A tricky problem up an
overhanging, rounded nose
with long stretches between
poor holds. James Pearson,
2006 None Given a Font. grade of 7c by its first ascentionist. The V grade is an approximate conversion.

Providence V10/11 (7a) Godrevy, Cornwall Powerful slap moves up an overhanging arête to a hard dynamic finish.
Dave Biggs 2006
James Pearson. The original provisional grade is the one listed. The repeat ascentionist suggested a grade of Font. 7c (V9/10).

Le Temp Passé
(a.k.a. L.T.P.)
V7 (6b/c) Godrevy
Powerful crimp moves on an overhanging wall. Andy Whall 2002 More than 5 Listed as V6 (6b) on ‘Gone West’.

Le Temp Passé Left V8 (6c) Godrevy
Hard moves left from a common starting hold lead to a crimpy, reach finish. John Fletcher or Andy Whall 2002 One A lower, harder start to a long-standing problem. Some confusion over who got there first!

Beachball V7 (6c) Godrevy
An eliminate sit-start problem based on an arête. Andy Whall 2001 None Can often become buried under high sand/pebbles.

Big Red V7 (6b) Godrevy
Climbs through a roof on finger pockets before swinging to a jug and making a long finishing move. Possibly Barnaby Carver 2006 None A recently completed project that has seen a number of attempts by both Chris Hall and Barnaby Carver. However, may have been climbed before in part (if not entirely) by Bob Lambourne and John Burgess.

Piss Pot V7 (6b/c) Godrevy
Difficult move on crimps to a feet-off campus finish. Possibly Andrew Pedley 2000 Andy Whall, Chris Hall, John Burgess, Barnaby Carver.
An estimated first ascent date. Named much later.

Ur Hot V8 (6c) Godrevy
Very hard moves through a roof to a tricky top-out. Chris Hall 2005 Barnaby Carver, Dave Biggs, Tom Maylam. A new low start to an older jump-start problem possibly called ‘Ineden’ by some.

Crab Crawl V7 (6b) Godrevy
Lip traverse on slopers. John Fletcher 2001 Chris Hall. ‘Johnny Fletch’ put it up so it’s probably flippin’ ‘ard!

Pockets Into Trigonometry V7 (6b) Godrevy
Thin moves into a big dyno. John Fletcher 2001 Andy Whall. A lower start to an existing problem.

Perfect Evening Light V7 (6b) Godrevy Lovely hard moves along a rounded handrail. James Strongman 2002 John Fletcher, Chris Hall, Andy Whall, Dave Biggs, Barnaby Carver, Tom Maylam. Thought to be V6 (6b) by some especially if you know the trick!

Snorkel V? (6b/c) Man’s Head
A hit-or-miss dynamic problem. Andy Whall 2003 Barnaby Carver. Varying sand levels can drastically reduce this problem’s difficulty and make it hard to grade accurately.

The Minitower Traverse (a.k.a. Three Egyptians)
V7 (6b) Man’s Head
A 14-metre long power-stamina traverse on crimps and finger pockets. Barnaby Carver 2002 None A three star problem if you like that sort of thing!

Barrel of Laughs V7/8 (6c) Clodgy Point,
Cornwall
A designated sit-start move under a boulder leads powerfully to an easier finish. Andy Whall 2006 Chris Hall, Barnaby Carver. Difficult to grade and the dynamic crux-move is very hard to get wired.

Bloodlust Original V8 (6c) Clodgy Point
A logical right-hand variation on the arête of ‘Bloodlust’ V6 (6b). Andy Whall 2004 Barnaby Carver. Long reaches on thin crimps.

Salad Fingers
V8 (6c) Clodgy Point
Two classic problems, Uluru V5 (6b) and Boomerang V7 (6c), connected via a series of sloper-groping moves. Andy Whall 2006 Barnaby Carver. Warm conditions can make holding the slopers very hard.

Boomerang
V7 (6c) Clodgy Point
Crimps on an overhanging sit-start lead to a sloper-slapping top-out. Andy Whall 2001 More than 5 Clodgy’s most famous problem and star of bouldering film ‘Gone West’!

Work in Progress V8 (6c) Clodgy Point
A low traverse of the Boomerang wall below the level of the lip. Barnaby Carver 2004 None A technical sequence of moves.

Andy’s Link-up V6/7 (6b) Clodgy Point
A V5 (6b) traverse linked into a V4 (6a/b) finish. Barnaby Carver 2004 None The finish is hard when tired.

Foreign Affairs V7 (6c) Zennor Hill

Sit-start to slopers and slap over the top.
Chris Hall 2005 None Home to some sharp crystals.

Agony Aunt V6/7 (6b)
Zennor Hill A low traverse along a thin horizontal seam. Chris Hall 2005 None The name is appropriate!

Dreckly V7 (6b) Bosworlas
Boulders,
Cornwall A long link-up traversing
left-to-right along a break
into Andy Whall’s problem
Peroxide Wall Traverse
V6 (6b). Dave Henderson,
2005. None One for Dartmoor
aficionados!

Nanjulian

7b+

Gwynver
Steep pulls onto an overhanging boulder.
Sven Scholz 2003
Barnaby Carver. Very bold.

Last Try

7a+

Gwynver
Technical wall climbing. Slightly high.
Heike Arnold 2003

Michael Scholz, Barnaby Carver
A fine problem that’s harder for shorter climbers.

Mr. Wonder 1
(with sit-start)

7b

Gwynver
Roof climbing.
Sven Scholz 2003
Michael Scholz, Barnaby Carver. Slightly gritty rock.

Swan

7a+ (7b+ with sit-start)

Gwynver
Blunt edge.
Sven Scholz or Heike Arnold 2003
Andy Whall, Barnaby Carver. (Both standing start only.) Bad landing.

Pea

7c

Gwynver
Small holds lead over a low bulge.
Sven Scholz 2003

Dave Henderson, Andy Whall, Barnaby Carver. Easier for the tall.

Evil Weasel 7c+ Gwynver Intensely powerful if done with the original start. Eliminate. Sven Scholz 2003 Michael Scholz Has been done with various starts by different people but the original designated start (necessary for shorter climbers) has only had one repeat.

Double Beach Bed

7c+

Gwynver

Climbs a big roof starting from the back. Essentially a hard boulder problem start to ‘The Alamo’ (Very Severe 5c) a John Hooper route from 1999 which starts by stepping off a boulder to gain the lip. Sven Scholz 2003 None Often damp and with a bad landing.

Cream Tea
(with sit-start)

7b+

Gwynver
An eliminate arête problem.
Sven Scholz or Heike Arnold 2003

Barnaby Carver, Dave Biggs, Sam Arkle.

Possibly over-graded.

Paresis

7a+

Gwynver
A technical wall with a tricky crux move.
Sven Scholz 2003

Barnaby Carver.

A hold on this has broken, slightly changing the problem.

Dental Fracture

7a+

Gwynver
A lip-traverse on slopers.
Sven Scholz or Heike Arnold 2003

None

A tad pumpy!

White Wedding V8/9 (6c) Sennen,
Cornwall A long traverse from ‘Sinner’s Route’ to ‘Overmarked’. Mark Edwards 2000 None Sequency crux on tiny holds. The V-grade is an approximate guess.

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PROBLEM	GRADE	CRAG	DESCRIPTION	FIRST ASCENT	REPEATS	COMMENTS
Cave Traverse	V8 (6c)	Helman Tor	Painful crimp traverse on gently overhanging wall of cave.	John Fletcher 2002	None	Many sharp small holds
Moves Me	V8 (6c)	Helman Tor	Climbs powerfully up a rounded nose on slopers.	Chris Hall 2005	None	Feels desperate or impossible depending on conditions!
Pond Wall (with sit-start)	V7 (6b/c)	Carn Brea	Soggy-bottom start into a knee-bar and rounded top-out.	Andy Whall 2006	None	The original stand-start problem V6 (6b), established by Chris Hall in 2001, has seen a number of repeats.
Yep (with sit-start from below and left)	V7 (6b/c)	Carn Brea	A long reach across a roof to gain a small flake and hard rockover finish.	Andy Whall 2004	None	Yep V6 (6b) from standing, first done by John Fletcher in 2001, is an innocuous looking but hard problem with a number of variations.
Blown Away	V7 (6b)	Carn Brea	A long low-traverse on sloping holds to a hand-jam finish.	John Fletcher 2001	Bob Lambourne, Andy Steinberg.	A hard extension to an old problem of Bob Lambourne’s named Swept Away.
Injected Persistence	V9 (6c)	North Cliffs	Blind slap moves into sloping finger-pockets.	Dave Biggs 2005	Barnaby Carver	This problem is located on the north coast near The Wave. On a par difficulty-wise with many of the area’s V8s.On a par difficulty-wise with many of the area’s V8s.
Controvo-scopy	V9 (7a)	Godrevy, Cornwall.	A tricky problem up an overhanging, rounded nose with long stretches between poor holds.	James Pearson, 2006	None	Given a Font. grade of 7c by its first ascentionist. The V grade is an approximate conversion.
Providence	V10/11 (7a)	Godrevy, Cornwall	Powerful slap moves up an overhanging arête to a hard dynamic finish.	Dave Biggs 2006	James Pearson.	The original provisional grade is the one listed. The repeat ascentionist suggested a grade of Font. 7c (V9/10).
Le Temp Passé (a.k.a. L.T.P.)	V7 (6b/c)	Godrevy	Powerful crimp moves on an overhanging wall.	Andy Whall 2002	More than 5	Listed as V6 (6b) on ‘Gone West’.
Le Temp Passé Left	V8 (6c)	Godrevy	Hard moves left from a common starting hold lead to a crimpy, reach finish.	John Fletcher or Andy Whall 2002	One	A lower, harder start to a long-standing problem. Some confusion over who got there first!
Beachball	V7 (6c)	Godrevy	An eliminate sit-start problem based on an arête.	Andy Whall 2001	None	Can often become buried under high sand/pebbles.
Big Red	V7 (6b)	Godrevy	Climbs through a roof on finger pockets before swinging to a jug and making a long finishing move.	Possibly Barnaby Carver 2006	None	A recently completed project that has seen a number of attempts by both Chris Hall and Barnaby Carver. However, may have been climbed before in part (if not entirely) by Bob Lambourne and John Burgess.
Piss Pot	V7 (6b/c)	Godrevy	Difficult move on crimps to a feet-off campus finish.	Possibly Andrew Pedley 2000	Andy Whall, Chris Hall, John Burgess, Barnaby Carver.	An estimated first ascent date. Named much later.
Ur Hot	V8 (6c)	Godrevy	Very hard moves through a roof to a tricky top-out.	Chris Hall 2005	Barnaby Carver, Dave Biggs, Tom Maylam.	A new low start to an older jump-start problem possibly called ‘Ineden’ by some.
Crab Crawl	V7 (6b)	Godrevy	Lip traverse on slopers.	John Fletcher 2001	Chris Hall.	‘Johnny Fletch’ put it up so it’s probably flippin’ ‘ard!
Pockets Into Trigonometry	V7 (6b)	Godrevy	Thin moves into a big dyno.	John Fletcher 2001	Andy Whall.	A lower start to an existing problem.
Perfect Evening Light	V7 (6b)	Godrevy	Lovely hard moves along a rounded handrail.	James Strongman 2002	John Fletcher, Chris Hall, Andy Whall, Dave Biggs, Barnaby Carver, Tom Maylam.	Thought to be V6 (6b) by some especially if you know the trick!
Snorkel	V? (6b/c)	Man’s Head	A hit-or-miss dynamic problem.	Andy Whall 2003	Barnaby Carver.	Varying sand levels can drastically reduce this problem’s difficulty and make it hard to grade accurately.
The Minitower Traverse (a.k.a. Three Egyptians)	V7 (6b)	Man’s Head	A 14-metre long power-stamina traverse on crimps and finger pockets.	Barnaby Carver 2002	None	A three star problem if you like that sort of thing!
Barrel of Laughs	V7/8 (6c)	Clodgy Point, Cornwall	A designated sit-start move under a boulder leads powerfully to an easier finish.	Andy Whall 2006	Chris Hall, Barnaby Carver.	Difficult to grade and the dynamic crux-move is very hard to get wired.
Bloodlust Original	V8 (6c)	Clodgy Point	A logical right-hand variation on the arête of ‘Bloodlust’ V6 (6b).	Andy Whall 2004	Barnaby Carver.	Long reaches on thin crimps.
Salad Fingers	V8 (6c)	Clodgy Point	Two classic problems, Uluru V5 (6b) and Boomerang V7 (6c), connected via a series of sloper-groping moves.	Andy Whall 2006	Barnaby Carver.	Warm conditions can make holding the slopers very hard.
Boomerang	V7 (6c)	Clodgy Point	Crimps on an overhanging sit-start lead to a sloper-slapping top-out.	Andy Whall 2001	More than 5	Clodgy’s most famous problem and star of bouldering film ‘Gone West’!
Work in Progress	V8 (6c)	Clodgy Point	A low traverse of the Boomerang wall below the level of the lip.	Barnaby Carver 2004	None	A technical sequence of moves.
Andy’s Link-up	V6/7 (6b)	Clodgy Point	A V5 (6b) traverse linked into a V4 (6a/b) finish.	Barnaby Carver 2004	None	The finish is hard when tired.
Foreign Affairs	V7 (6c)	Zennor Hill	Sit-start to slopers and slap over the top.	Chris Hall 2005	None	Home to some sharp crystals.
Agony Aunt	V6/7 (6b)	Zennor Hill	A low traverse along a thin horizontal seam.	Chris Hall 2005	None	The name is appropriate!
Dreckly	V7 (6b)	Bosworlas Boulders, Cornwall	A long link-up traversing left-to-right along a break into Andy Whall’s problem Peroxide Wall Traverse V6 (6b).	Dave Henderson, 2005.	None	One for Dartmoor aficionados!
Nanjulian	7b+	Gwynver	Steep pulls onto an overhanging boulder.	Sven Scholz 2003	Barnaby Carver.	Very bold.
Last Try	7a+	Gwynver	Technical wall climbing. Slightly high.	Heike Arnold 2003	Michael Scholz, Barnaby Carver	A fine problem that’s harder for shorter climbers.
Mr. Wonder 1 (with sit-start)	7b	Gwynver	Roof climbing.	Sven Scholz 2003	Michael Scholz, Barnaby Carver.	Slightly gritty rock.
Swan	7a+ (7b+ with sit-start)	Gwynver	Blunt edge.	Sven Scholz or Heike Arnold 2003	Andy Whall, Barnaby Carver. (Both standing start only.)	Bad landing.
Pea	7c	Gwynver	Small holds lead over a low bulge.	Sven Scholz 2003	Dave Henderson, Andy Whall, Barnaby Carver.	Easier for the tall.
Evil Weasel	7c+	Gwynver	Intensely powerful if done with the original start. Eliminate.	Sven Scholz 2003	Michael Scholz	Has been done with various starts by different people but the original designated start (necessary for shorter climbers) has only had one repeat.
Double Beach Bed	7c+	Gwynver	Climbs a big roof starting from the back. Essentially a hard boulder problem start to ‘The Alamo’ (Very Severe 5c) a John Hooper route from 1999 which starts by stepping off a boulder to gain the lip.	Sven Scholz 2003	None	Often damp and with a bad landing.
Cream Tea (with sit-start)	7b+	Gwynver	An eliminate arête problem.	Sven Scholz or Heike Arnold 2003	Barnaby Carver, Dave Biggs, Sam Arkle.	Possibly over-graded.
Paresis	7a+	Gwynver	A technical wall with a tricky crux move.	Sven Scholz 2003	Barnaby Carver.	A hold on this has broken, slightly changing the problem.
Dental Fracture	7a+	Gwynver	A lip-traverse on slopers.	Sven Scholz or Heike Arnold 2003	None	A tad pumpy!
White Wedding	V8/9 (6c)	Sennen, Cornwall	A long traverse from ‘Sinner’s Route’ to ‘Overmarked’.	Mark Edwards 2000	None	Sequency crux on tiny holds. The V-grade is an approximate guess.