Chudleigh Rocks
Black CragIntroduction: Black Crag (NGR SX 886 785) is within the trees on the other side of the valley from the South Face; it can be viewed from the top of the Gagool Buttress. This isolated crag was developed by local climbers in the 1980s; nine climbs are recorded in the definitive Nick White guide. It is a natural limestone cliff with a set of fine, steep traditional climbs, which has an ‘off the beaten track’ and adventurous atmosphere in comparison with the well-frequented venue over the valley. The main face of the buttress has a north-westerly aspect and it is most pleasant on a sunny summer evening.
In recent years Black Crag has suffered from a rather surprising lack of interest. This is potentially a consequence of a narrow grade band and a rather arduous approach. Fortunately, infrequent visitors equates to no polish! The routes were brought back into climbable condition in 2007/08.
Approach: Previous guide books describe the access route as follows: Start as for Chudleigh South Face, but where the path splits, take the lower alternative and follow it steeply down to the brook. Cross the brook and climb up a steep slope to the foot of the buttress. This approach can feel a bit of an ‘Indiana Jones’-type experience…
An alternative and more pleasant approach exists from upslope on the east side of the valley, via. a path visible on the OS Landranger map (www.ordnancesurvey.co.uk/getamap). Right of way is a little uncertain, so be courteous if challenged. Coming southwards down the minor road from Biddlecombe Cross, park considerately next to a gateway in the wall on the left (two parking places), and head off down a little path into the woods on the right hand side (the path enters undergrowth about 15m to the south of a ‘public footpath’ sign). After around 350m the path bears left, below a high tree canopy. Black Crag is now quite close, on the right.
From the top of the crag, an abseil to the base can most safely be made down the line of Golden Dive.
Ethics and Gear: This is a natural limestone crag, with the same trad. ethic. as Chudleigh South Face (no drilled gear, fixed gear in line with original descriptions). For the competent, adequate (although rarely generous) natural protection opportunities exist, supplemented by a few threads and pegs. The fixed gear was checked during summer 2008; the threads and one of the pegs were replaced.
On most routes, two sets of wires and a standard set of friends (up to #3) will suffice. The only exception to this is Out on a Limb, where a large (#4 ish) friend might prove useful.
The Routes: The seven routes which are currently (2008) in climbable condition are described below from right to left (looking in). The two other recorded routes to the right of 19th Nervous Breakdown currently remain lost under ivy. Feedback is encouraged on the grading below (particularly from any on-sight efforts), which differs slightly from that in the Nick White guide.
19th Nervous Breakdown E1 5b
A steep route, worthwhile on account of a gymnastic crux and some esoteric interest. Start at the right hand end of the overhanging western face of the crag.
1) 45ft Climb ledges and reach over a bulge (thread runner). Execute a strenuous, grappling, leftwards rockover onto the constricted ledge above. Escape upwards past the next overhang through a triangular niche, and bear slightly rightwards up the easier wall above using incut holds and blocks, taking care with the rock. Tree belay. FA Robbie Warke 1982.Out on a Limb E3 5c*
A steep and very exciting route, inexplicably underrated in the Nick White guide? Start at the left hand end of the overhanging western face, just to the left of a huge fallen block.
1) 60ft Climb slightly rightwards up the overhanging rib on good holds, quite boldly at first. Placements eventually appear on the right. Above, a long reach off positive holds allows a block to be gained (old peg runner, below a bulge). Hand traverse slightly rightwards (over the void!) and then make another long and strenuous reach (crux) to gain a positive hold at the top of a leftwards rising crack. Move quickly leftwards to gain an ape-like posture atop the bulge (wire placement), and then escape over the lip of the small overhang above to a choice of top-outs. FA Nick White, Pete Bull 1986.
Note: The condition of the old peg runner has passed a cursory inspection (2008). Nevertheless, those with serious intent on leading the route may want to satisfy themselves…Darling Nikki E3 6a**
Although a little unbalanced overall, a lovely crux sequence elevates this climb to 2** status in this guide. Start below a short bulging rib, just to the left of the start of Out on a Limb.
1) 60ft Climb the bulging rib to a ledge at about 15’. Climb slightly rightwards up the featured and steepening rock above, making the most of the available wire placements, to reach a small niche and a conspicuous pocket. Pull up slightly leftwards onto the steep wall using small, positive holds (ring peg). Get suitably positioned (crux), then launch upwards and rightwards to reach positive holds at the base of a ragged crack. Pull strenuously up and over the bulge (good friend #2). Chill out a bit, then enjoy the final steep wall up to the tree on the left. Dodgy blocks exist directly above, so either lower-off on the tree (if you trust it…) or top-out further left as for Golden Dive. FA Nick White, Dick Thorns 1986.
Note: The “Cassin” ring peg is in a dry location and seems to still be in good condition (2008). However, be aware that the strength of the ring on these pegs is questionable.Golden Dive E3 5c*
A two star route in the Nick White guide. A dusty start and an unbalanced nature means that it probably only warrants 1*. Adequate protection from wires and small/medium friends. A conspicuous crack splits the upper part of the main face, just right of centre. Start immediately below this.
1) 60ft Climb the featured lower wall, to reach a comfortable niche at the base of the crack. Arrange adequate protection, then stretch up and over the bulge above (potential 6a move for the short?) to reach good finger-holds and a placement in the crack above. Another long reach gains positive pockets, which enable the slight respite of a cave mouth to be reached (beware the resident jackdaws…). Bear slightly leftwards up cracks in the final wall above to a cleaned top-out, or lower-off the tree to the right. FA Nick White, Pete Bull 1986.Gorillability E3 5c/6a**
This route is touted as the best route at the crag in earlier guides, but it isn’t necessarily the first one to go for; it is high in the grade and difficult to protect for a strenuous section above the crux. From the start of Golden Dive, scramble leftwards up an ivy-covered slope. The route starts about 10ft from the rock steps at the left hand end of the base of the wall.
1) 45ft Use small holds to gain a sharp flake on the lower wall. Move up past this to gain a semi-rest above a break. A sequency and hard set of moves on the wall above (peg runner, possible small friend) allows larger holds to be gained up to the right, on the lip of a small bulge. Negotiate the ensuing ‘gorilla-ish’ section of the route with some urgency, to reach easier terrain above. Follow cracks in the upper wall slightly leftwards, to finish at a tree. FA Kit Wilkinson, Pete Bull 1986.
Note: the crucial peg which protects the crux sequence has been replaced (2008) after the original ‘Cassin’ ring rotted away. It is a sideways placement which is merely ‘reasonable’ (ie. it may not take a major lob…), so use judgement and take care.Poetic Justice E3 5c
A slightly poor relation to the other E3s, mainly as much of the pitch attracts seepage in winter and is dusty when dry. However, the climbing is excellent and the route is certainly worthwhile (worth a star) when in good condition. Start just to the right of the rock steps at the base of the wall, below conspicuous double pockets at 15ft.
1) 45ft Climb the lower wall slightly rightwards to a break (ignoring the rock steps to the left), then head back slightly leftwards to reach the double pockets. Move up and right to reach good holds on a narrow ledge (weak thread runner), and then climb onwards and upwards to gain a crack system in the wall above. Follow the crack system with continued interest to the top. FA Robbie Warke, Rick Meek 1987.Wind Bandits E2 5b
Slightly tight in line, at the left hand end of the crag. A bold start, sparse protection and an awkward crux means that this is not the warm-up route for the E3s that it might appear to be…
1) 45ft Scramble up three rock steps at the left hand end of the crag to beneath a bulging wall. Climb boldly up to the right (crucial small wire) and climb awkwardly upwards and leftwards around the bulge to gain an uncomfortable position in the overhanging niche. Escape up the crack above, taking advantage of a ledge on the left. FA Rick Meek, Robbie Warke 1987.
Thanks to Simon Wooster for providing this guide.
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This file last modified
20 December, 2008.