Gwynver Bouldering Guide
This area has been developed recently by a strong German team. It provides a good selection of problems and is a lovely spot by the sea. The only drawback is the landings - a minimum of two mats will be required unless you are extremely brave!
Approach:
See map at bottom of page!
Walk down the steps to Gwynver beach (the beach just North of Sennen Beach) and turn right!
Problems 1-7 are gained by walking across the boulder beach - problems beyond that (on the headland and beyond - Aire Point) are most expediently gained by walking along the path above the boulder beach then dropping down.
Tides and conditions: A visit is best timed around low-mid tide. Swell will affect several of the areas and sea-spray can make conditions greasy.
1 Font 7a+ (6b) Sit down start to hanging arete thing.
2 Project - with no real holds and a bad landing
3 Font 6a (5c) Rounded arete - high and with a bad landing.4 Font 6a+/6c Blunt edge
5 Font 6a+ (5c) Mantle
6 Font 6b+ (6a) Right to left traverse
7 Font 6a (5b) Left to right traverse
Aire Point
8 Dental Fracture Font 7a+ Right to left traverse from sit start.
9 Fracture Font 6c A sit start to the blunt edge
10 Font 4 (4c) Crack11 Aire Point Slab Font 7a
12 Paresis slab Font 7a+
13 Font 6c+ Slab
14 Font 6a Crack
15 Font 6a Slab
16 Font 6a Edge
A few hundred yards north is a 35 high foot wall. The following problems are found on this and finish at the first main break (about 12 ft up):
17 Font 6a slab
18 Font 6a/7a+ edge
19 Font 7a/7b Cream Tea edge
20 Font 6a slab
21 Font 6a slab
22 Font 6b slabAround the left end of the wall is an overhang in an alcove:
23 Double beach bed Font 7c+ Start from rear through the roof. Tends to seep and the landing's not too good.
The next problem is found on a scary slab:
24 SOS Font 7a The climbing's not too hard but it's a bit scary!!
Immediately left is:
Snail Boulder
Is identified by a roof on the left and high slab on the right:
25 Mississippi Burning Font 6c The wall direct.
26 Mississippi Font 6b Wall and left.
27 Swan Font 7a+/7b+ The blunt edge.
28 Font 7a+ Start as for Swan and reach Low water
29 Low water 6b+/6c+ Precarious mantle finsh after some fun steep climbing.On the boulder above the Snail:
30 Pea Font 7c A sit down start with feet on base.
20 ft over to the right is a boulder above a trench:
31 Evil Weasel Font 7a+ Starting on obvious rail. Feet on block only! An unusual super low start comes in from beneath on the left at 7c+.
32 Font 6a Sit down start
33 Project
34 Font 6b edge
35 Font 6a Rib
36 Font 5 The crystal vein
37 Mr. Wonder I Font 7a/7b The roof.
38 Mr. Wonder II project Starting as for 37 then move left39 Font 5 Right to left traverse
40 6b/7a The edgeNanjulian
41 Nanjulian wall Font 7b+
42 Font 6a/6b Edge
43 Last Try Font 7a+ The wall
