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Gwynver Bouldering Guide

This area has been developed recently by a strong German team. It provides a good selection of problems and is a lovely spot by the sea. The only drawback is the landings - a minimum of two mats will be required unless you are extremely brave!

Approach:

See map at bottom of page!

Walk down the steps to Gwynver beach (the beach just North of Sennen Beach) and turn right!

Problems 1-7 are gained by walking across the boulder beach - problems beyond that (on the headland and beyond - Aire Point) are most expediently gained by walking along the path above the boulder beach then dropping down.

Tides and conditions: A visit is best timed around low-mid tide. Swell will affect several of the areas and sea-spray can make conditions greasy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

1  Font 7a+ (6b) Sit down start to hanging arete thing.

2  Project - with no real holds and a bad landing
3  Font 6a (5c) Rounded arete - high and with a bad landing.

4  Font 6a+/6c Blunt edge
5  Font 6a+ (5c) Mantle
6  Font 6b+ (6a) Right to left traverse
7  Font 6a (5b) Left to right traverse

 

Aire Point

8  Dental Fracture Font 7a+ Right to left traverse from sit start.
9  Fracture Font 6c A sit start to the blunt edge
10  Font 4 (4c) Crack

11  Aire Point Slab Font 7a
12  Paresis slab Font 7a+
13  Font 6c+ Slab
14  Font 6a Crack
15  Font 6a Slab
16  Font 6a Edge

 

A few hundred yards north is a 35 high foot wall. The following problems are found on this and finish at the first main break (about 12 ft up):

17  Font 6a slab
18  Font 6a/7a+ edge
19  Font 7a/7b Cream Tea edge
20  Font 6a slab
21  Font 6a slab
22  Font 6b slab

Around the left end of the wall is an overhang in an alcove:

23  Double beach bed Font 7c+ Start from rear through the roof. Tends to seep and the landing's not too good.

The next problem is found on a scary slab:

24  SOS Font 7a The climbing's not too hard but it's a bit scary!!

Immediately left is:

 

Snail Boulder

Is identified by a roof on the left and high slab on the right:

25  Mississippi Burning Font 6c The wall direct.
26  Mississippi Font 6b Wall and left.
27  Swan Font 7a+/7b+ The blunt edge.
28  Font 7a+ Start as for Swan and reach Low water
29  Low water 6b+/6c+ Precarious mantle finsh after some fun steep climbing.

On the boulder above the Snail:

30  Pea Font 7c A sit down start with feet on base.

20 ft over to the right is a boulder above a trench:

31  Evil Weasel Font 7a+ Starting on obvious rail. Feet on block only! An unusual super low start comes in from beneath on the left at 7c+.

32  Font 6a Sit down start

33  Project

34  Font 6b edge
35  Font 6a Rib
36  Font 5 The crystal vein


37  Mr. Wonder I Font 7a/7b The roof.
38  Mr. Wonder II project Starting as for 37 then move left

39  Font 5 Right to left traverse
40  6b/7a The edge

Nanjulian

41 Nanjulian wall Font 7b+
42 Font 6a/6b Edge
43 Last Try Font 7a+ The wall

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


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