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COASTGUARD CLIFFS/ WHITE RHINO TEA
A perfect area for those interested in a nice day at the seaside swimming, sunbathing, cliff jumping, climbing, snorkelling (there are some fantastic underwater caves beneath the ledges which can be swam through by those with big lungs/ knackers) and picnicking.
The next 2 routes are found in a narrow zawn at the beginning of the Eastern Shelf.
Living Zawn XS 5c ** S0
30ft The fine pocketed crack at the Lhand side of the R wall (looking out to sea). Abseil in to a hanging belay at the high tide mark. Also goes as a Deep Water Solo. FA Ian Parnell, Andy Sheehy 13.5.95 (onsight)
That Riviera Touch XS 4a, 5b S2 #
80ft Originally led with a poorly protected crux section, this is also a potential deep water solo. 1.30ft Follow Calcite Diamond to it's belay. 2.50ft Step L around the arete and keep traversing a further 10ft to an obvious snaking crack-line. Follow this to surmount a small roof on good pockets. Finish direct past more calcite pockets. FA Clark Alston, Steve Martin. Summer 1997
Gunga Din E1 5a *30ft S1
The arete/pillar to the R of Swashbuckler provides a good deep water solo although the splash zone looks a bit small when on the route. A tad scary near the top. Start from the R hand side (looking in). FA Dave Henderson June 1997 (onsight solo)
WHITE RHINO TEA AREA
This is the 45 degree overhanging buttress that is taken by Barnacle Traverse Continuation.
Approach: Either a) along the Barnacle Traverse or b) from the top of Red Walls continue towards Great Cave. This leads to large ledges overlooking the buttress. Continue on past a “bad step” to gain the top of the buttress. From here a groove to the L can be down climbed (Severe), or descend further down to a ledge on the R and traverse in. Approach b) is more convenient as your spare boots/ chalk-bags can be left closer to hand. It is also less time consuming.
Whoomze Got Der Keys To Me Beema XS 6a *30ft S1
From White Rhino Tea reverse Barnacle Traverse Continuation (i.e. towards Red Walls) into a sea cave. At the back of this is a ledge. From the ledge take the obvious, wild traverse-line out along good, flat holds. This involves some excellent swinging around and a couple of “up” moves until one can turn the arete onto a slab. Get established on this then escape L across the slab to avoid a loose top-out. This leads into the descent groove to White Rhino Tea. FA Dave Henderson 4.9.99 (onsight solo)
Variation start XS 5c *
The same finish can also be gained direct. FA Dave Henderson 4.9.99
Pink Roadster XS 6a Fr7a
A direct finish to the previous 'variation start' route. Instead of escaping left across the slap, make a tricky rockover onto the slab up to the right then head out rightward. FA Mike Robertson 1.8.2005
Watting Yer Ouzel XS 5c 25ft S0
A worthwhile excursion – steep and on good holds. From the descent groove traverse L for 10 feet then climb direct up the overhanging wall to the R of the central weakness. Near the top move L to avoid easier ground. FA Dave Henderson 16.8.99 (onsight solo)
White Rhino Tea XS 6a ***30ft S0
One of Devon classic Deep Water Solos. Deep water at any tide, big holds and very steep. For best excitement wait till low tide! Climbs the crack-line in the middle of the buttress until a long reach gains a protruding block. From here move up into a calcite sidepull, then make a long reach up R to big holds and an easier finish. FA Dave Henderson 1.8.98 Variation finish From the protruding block reach up and L then finish direct. Possibly slightly pumpier than the original. FA Dave Henderson 8.99 (onsight solo)
Humanize XS 5b 25ft S0
An introduction to arming it over the sea. From the ledge to the R (looking out) of the buttress reverse Barnacle Traverse Continuation for 10ft. Haul up and Rwards to a vertical break with protruding block holds. Continue direct, hoping they stay in place. FA Martin Crocker 13.9.98 (onsight solo)
Jose Sandeles XS 6a 25ft S0 #
From the same ledge as Humanize traverse R along an obvious juggy break (at the same level as the ledge) until beneath a calcite-tufa-type feature. Move up to this then make some tricky moves past it to gain less steep rock and a direct finish FA Dave Henderson 4.9.99 (onsight solo)
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