Lundy
Lundy, a 3 mile long island standing proudly in the Bristol Channel twelve miles from the nearest mainland (Hartland Point on the Culm Coast of Devon) is quite simply one of the best climbing destinations in the British Isles!
The climbing is mostly found on the granite cliffs of the rugged, wave pounded, West Coast with grades ranging from Diff to E8. The routes are firmly set in the traditional adventuous mode (apart from a small number of lines that still have a couple of bolts), although there are plenty of friendly crags!
Where
to stay
Ranging from posh cottages to camping. Must be booked early to avoid disappointment
during peak season. Large groups should consider attempting to book "The
Barn" as it works out relatively cheap if you can fill it up... but this
will need to be done a long time in advance! Bookings are made through The
Landmark Trust/ or The Lundy Shore Office .( 01271 863636 )
How to get there
The MS Oldenburg sails from Bideford and Ilfracombe regularly during the summer.
This currently costs about £40 for a return. Alternatively, if you've
got more money to spend and want a speedier ride (the boat takes between 2
and 3 hours, and can be a bit rough!) a helicopter can be arranged.
Peak Climbing
Season
Runs from August through to late september. During the bulk of the summer
many of the cliffs are affected by bird nesting restrictions (1st April to
31st July). A trip during the nesting season is still worth considering as
there are a number of crags which remain open - these can vary from year to
year so you'll need to check with the Lundy Warden first.
What gear to
take
A standard rack of gear should suffice (wires, Friends, quickdraws, Hexes
etc) but consider taking a few extra bits for rigging abseils and for the
longer routes. Although you can get away with a 50 metre abseil rope, a longer
one (some take 100 metres!) will make things easier as you won't have to tie
ropes together - a static line (i.e. not just a stretchy old climbing rope!)
is preferable as it will minimise cliff top erosion and is also less prone
to wear over edges and dislodging rocks. If you do only have a 50 metre ab
rope a section of "rigging rope" will prove handy to extend belays,
which are often set a way back from the edge, to the cliff top (once again
this is best if static).
Food and essentials
Are available on the island from a small shop. This can be a little expensive,
which is understandable given the expense of shipping provisions to the island.
At the time of writing they stock metholated spirits, and Coleman Gas Canisters
(the latter are not that cheap so go prepared!). There is also the Marisco
Tavern, the focal point for apres- (and sometimes pre-) climbing activities
- as well as a a few good beers they also do food (best bargains from the
specials section on the counter) and a stunning cooked breakfast.
Top tips
It is likely that you're trip to Lundy will include a fair amount of walking
and some steep descents so take appropiate footwear!
Guidebooks
Lundy ( by Paul Harrison and Gary Gibson Published by The Climbers Club
1994) The definitive Lundy Guide! Full of inspirational routes. A
supplement guide is downloadable from The
Climbers Club
A selection of the best routes can also be found in South West Climbs by Pat Littlejohn (Diadem Books 1991).
New route details
Available at javu. When on the island
new routes and climbing log books can be found in the Marisco Tavern. These
are well worth a read for amusement value and sometimes useful route information.
Also see the Climbers Club webite for a supplement.
javu articles
Lundy Top 10
Paul Harrison, co-author of the guidebook and author of the supplement, shares
his Top 10 routes on the island.
Lundy Photos
More information
Available at the Lundy Island website
- this includes further contact and accomodation details.
