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CHEESEWRING AND S.E. CORNWALL
Guidebook: Cheeswring and S.E. Cornwall Author: Sean Hawken Publisher: St. Ives Publishing Company
Latest Stuff:
Pat Littlejohn/Dave Garner team add E5 to Dodman Point (9 May 2005)
Luxulyan New Route (19 March 2003)
Carn Grey Quarry Newly developed quarry near St. Austell (19 March 2003)Pat Littlejohn adds XS to Gamas Point (7 July 2002)
Pat Littlejon adds a couple of lines to Dodman Point (7 July 2002)
Trewortha Tor | Hawks Tor | Kilmar Tor | Helman Tor | Roche Rock | Cheesewring Quarry | Lantic Bay | Dodman Point | Gamas Point
Trewortha Tor
This Tor only has one route in the Cheesewring and SE Cornwall guide - this situation has been dealt with. As mentioned in said guide there is also some smart bouldering. The climbing has it's own special style! Please note: Several other new lines have been climbed here - details should be here soon!
Merlin E6/7 6b (*** honest guvna!) #
A tough line with very unusual climbing, which is also a little dangerous. It takes a line up the right side of the left arete of the Just Good Friends wall. Large Friends essential. 35ft Start up a short crack on the left, to gain the first rounded break. Arrange gear then move out and stretch up to some slopers (the lower half of the next break). Struggle precariously into the next break and place big cams. The technical crux remains - make your way out of the break, get stood up on undercuts and stretch for a very rounded finish.FA Dave Henderson (belayed by Carrie Hill) May 2000 photoBath With A Friend E3 6a #
The wall to the right of Just Good Friends. FA Ben Rowe (Ben has since soloed this)It should be noted that Just Good Friends is hard for it's VS 5a grade - HVS 5b has been suggested. Also, if the line line is finished direct we may be looking at E1!
Trewellard E5 6b #
30ft Is found at the other end of the "Tor"/ridge. If approaching from the Just Good Friends end, down to the right (ie. on the west side), just beyond a wall (man-made - not climbing!!) is a buttress with a couple of breaks and a horrendously rounded finish (this is not yet a route!!). Trewellard climbs the left arete on the right side. FA Ben Rowe '99 Note: remains of bolts can be found on the right of the wall - these were "allegedly" placed by a local activity centre to hold on metal ledges so that the wall could be used for the punters!!
Hawks Tor
Fatboy Slim HVS 5b? #
Climbs the rounded hanging flake left of Cat's 'ere (13), to a ledge, finishing direct. FA Rob Galley and Mark Kemball. 10.1.99 "We are very unsure of the grade; it seems to depend a lot on one's girth"Garden Arete HVS 5a #
Climbs the arete left of Garden Chimney (19). A series of rounded ledges, escapable throughout. FA Mark Kemball and Rob Galley 10.1.99Lazy Daze E2 5c #
Climbs the face between Garden Chimney (19) and Crack and Platform (20), starting in the middle, trending right. The crux is to gain a supine position in the halfway break, after this superb rest, regaining the vertical is also quite tricky. FA Rob Galley and Mark Kemball 10.1.99One in the Bush VS 4c * #
25ft Entertaining. Start just right of The Roman Nose, below a blunt arete with two obvious flakes. Climb to the roof, then use the flakes to ape round right to a short crack. Step up and slightly left past a heather bush, then finish direct up slabs. Martin Dunning and Steve Gibson, March 17th 2006."The Cat's 'ere: first ascent Martin Dunning and Lynda French February 1980 - we didn't write it up at the time, but now that it is in the guide I'd like my name on it!"
Kilmar Tor
About halfway between the Eastern and Western turrets, just below the north side of the ridge is a higher outcrop of rock (visible from the car park). There is a large rowan tree growing near its summit.
Make Hay While The Sun Shines Severe * #
Climbs the obvious flakey crack system in the centre of the face. Very pleasant. FA Mark Kemball and Nick Dill. 10.6.99Why A Brush? H.V.S. 5b #
Climbs the face directly right of Make Hay, finishing via a shallow rounded flake. FA Nick Dill and Mark Kemball. 10.6.99"We climbed a line on Kilmar tor that is not recorded in any of the guides we have seen, it follows a roof crack out of a cave 100m along the ridge towards the car from special llama, climb up the back of the cave, follow the roof crack out to daylight along a mossy ledge until mossy jams on the lip allow you to stand on the arete, then climb the top slopey section, graded about hs 5a but will get easier as the jams get less mossy, we reakon if nobody else has claimed it septic reality would be a good name. the arete below the finish goes as well at about s 4b with the same scary topout."
Helman Tor
Hellfire E1 5c
30 feet A hard problem-climb up the wall right of Bloody Helman. Climb directly up the wall to a break, continue up a
small short groove to another break, finish direct on the top-out moves of Hell's Tooth. FIRST RECORDED ASCENT: Barnaby Carver. (Solo) 13 September 1999. Climbed solo from the ground up after a few previous attempts.
Roche Rock
Smoked Bacon E2 6a
45 feet Eliminate. Climb directly up through the centre of two overlaps just right of Porky. Don't use the flakes and
crack just right, side runners in these or in Porky reduce the grade to H.V.S/E1. FIRST RECORDED ASCENT: Barnaby Carver, W. A. (Toni) Carver. 05 June 1999. Climbed after a handful of attempts from the ground up without prior inspection or pre-practice.
Cheesewring Quarry
There is peg missing on Agent Provocateur/ Double Agent. With small friends and little wires satisfactory gear can be arranged.
Psychokiller E6 6c Fr 7c+ has finally had a second (?) ascent at the hands of Ken Palmer. The line has been re-bolted and is now safe. The first ascent was an impressive acheivement by Steve Mayers given the state of the original bolt stubs he lead the route with!
Gamas Point
OS ref 025473Approach from Pentewan beach at low tide. The cliffs get bigger and more interesting till a 120 ft wall is reached. Towards the left side is a pleasant-looking corner:
Doom Laden 130 feet XS
"If it was made of granite it would get at least two stars" (Dave Garner). Belay on a ledge under a small overhang left of the corner (to increase second's chances of survival). 1) 90 feet. Follow the corner, move around the sloping roof then up over detached rock to until a big layback move over the next bulge gains a niche below the top. 2) 40 feet. Step left and climb vertical vegetation to reach the cliff path, then retreat to Mevagissey for several pints of 'Doom'. FA May 28, 2002 P Littlejohn, D Garner
Dodman Point
Dead Man's Curve E5 #
150ft The 'show-stopping' crack line R of Horrorshow. Very strenuous but will take all the wires you can carry. Start at the huge leaning flake below the line.1. 100 ft 6a Climb the R edge of the flake then move up the arête of the wall to reach the cracks. After a hard start follow the cracks to a big quartz jug on the right and a perfect stance.2. 50 ft 5b Climb the arête then easy slabs to the top of the buttress. FA . P Littlejohn, D Garner 4/5/2005The Jolly Farmer Hard Very Severe #
180 ft The slabby corner L of Horrorshow gives a relatively gentle way up an otherwise forbidding cliff. 1. 140 ft 4c Start up the corner then move L along a detached flake and climb the slab above, trending left to a rib leading to the upper slab. Continue to belays in a horizontal crack above a grass tongue. 2. 40 ft 4a Climb the quartzy slab above to belays on the blocky ridge. FA P Littlejohn, D Garner (alt) 4/5/2005Prelude VS 4c #
50 ft Just to the right of the start of 'Divine Comedy is a striking crackline slanting leftwards to a small overhang at mid height. Surmount the overhang and finish carefully. Belay off the cross and or insitu stake. Kevin Lowry and Gareth Palmer, 5/6/06 'Mediterranean Blue VS 4c #
60 ft. Start in the corner 30ft to the right of Divine Comedy. Climb the slab, pooly protected, to an overhang. Climb the overhang to gain a ramp which is followed to the top. Belay off stakes. Gareth Palmer and Kevin Lowry, 7/6/06Oceans HVS 5a #
65ft Moving 20ft down rightwards from Med Blue start in a niche. Climb steeply for 18ft past an to overhang to gain a slab. Move leftwards up a groove until a headwall is reached. Continue along a ledge to the left and up to stake belays. Gareth Palmer and Kevin Lowry, 13/6/06.Happy Slapper Diff #
40 ft Just right of the descent path is an easy angled ramp. The happy climbers path to the top G Palmer and K Lowry (solo) 13/6/06Immediately West of the Horrorshow cliff is an overhanging wall near sea level.
Age of Navigators 140 feet E4 5c #
An interesting voyage up the fluted groove which bounds the overhanging wall on the left. Scarcely tidal. Belay near the left end of the shelf running beneath the cliff. Move left and follow the main line, which trends slightly left to a distinct overhang at 70 ft. Pull over this then move left round the arête and finish via the obvious break. Belay blocks high up the slope. FA May 29, 2002. P Littlejohn, D Garner
Lantic Bay - Great Lantic Beach
GR SX147508 The beach is near the village of Polruan.
Approach as for Pencarrow Head, but after crossing the coast path, follow the path down to the right onto the beach. The climbs are located on a small stack at the far end of the beach. Access is approximately 2 hours either side of low water, but this can be extended for about an extra hour with a bit of wading and easy scrambling. The rock is Devonian Slate. It is generally solid, but the finishes require care, and the rock is prone to be more friable after it has been damp. Belays are generally friends and large nuts set well back down the far side of the stack. Decent is by the easy groove on the right hand side.
The climbs are described from right to left.
Giggle VD
25' A lovely, fun little route which climbs the slab to the right of the descent gully. FA Alan Brady, Sarah Groves (both solo) 20/08/00The rib left of the gully is a pleasant scramble.
Whisky Galore VS 4b
70' A hybrid which tries to squeeze the most out of the slab by following a big diagonal line. Start by the right of the main slab. Climb easily up and left until a thin move across Lucy Brown gains a ledge. Do the crux of Sunkist, and the step up and left to finish up Regatta. FA Alan Brady, Sarah Groves 10/09/00Lucy Brown HVS 4c
30' Thin moves and thin protection! Start about 15' in from the RH arete. Follow broken cracks up to the protrusion in the overlap, and continue straight up the smooth slab above. FA Alan Brady, Sarah Groves 20/08/00Sunkist VS 4b *
35' Delightfully technical. Start in the centre of the main slab, at the point of the low level ledge. Climb stright up to the LH end of the sickle-shaped overlap, then move left and up to a ledge. Follow the shallow L-facing corner to finish. FA Alan Brady, Sarah Groves 20/08/00Regatta D
35' The obvious central corner on surprisingly large holds. FA Alan Brady, Sarah Groves 20/08/00Misty Rib D
40' The rib forming the left arete of Regatta leads to a left-sloping ramp. Poor protection. FA Alan Brady solo 10/9/00Winkle Picker HVS 5a
40' The steep slab left of Regatta has a pale patch of poor rock at half height. After a thin start, climb to a slanting crack below the pale patch. Skirt this by moving to the left arete. Finish direct on better but sometimes loose holds. FA Alan Brady, Sarah Groves 20/08/00Mussel Beach S
35' This climbs the inset slab left of Winkle Picker. Climb the slab and corner until a traverse line leads left to an obvious finish. FA Alan Brady solo 10/9/00A bit further up the beach there are some wave-washed walls which provide a little light-hearted (but quite pumpy) bouldering.
Carn Grey Quarry
(nr st. austell cornwall) grid ref:033551
How to get there: The quarry is situated just outside of St. Austell on the Carclaze to Trethurgy road. From the A391 heading into St. Austell from Penwithick go over the 1st roundabout. At the 2nd roundabout take the left had turning. Follow this road for about 5 min’s the quarry is situated up a very short track on the left, just after the turning for the waste disposal site on the right. There is normally ample parking in the car park.
The climbs are situated up a sort track leading out of the car park (north-west’ish), follow this track for about 2 min’s until the quarry opens up in front of you. The Routes start on the right of the crag and are described from right to left:
Fag Ash Lil VS 4b #
25ftish An eliminate line that has a good boulder prob. Start climbs the blank wall on the right of the crag to a large ledge. Step left and climbs through to the shallow corner at the top. Overhanging heather to finish. Belays are a No. 2 friend In Tor and some old stakes directly at the top (may be hidden by grass). FA James Hoskin, Mathias ?? July 2002The Happy Little Hooker HVS 5a * #
25ftish A delightful little climb that climbs the wall to the right of the obvious corner (two pegs in situ). Start below & just right of a ledge at about 12” climb onto the ledge then step right and climb the very shallow corner to the top. Belays are a No. 2 friend In Tor and some old stakes directly at the top (may be hidden by grass). FA James Hoskin, Phil Mathews 2001Armchair Warrior HVS 5a #
25ftish An awkward little climb that takes the arête to the left of the corner. Climb the arête in its entirety some gear available. FA Phil Mathews, James Hoskin 2001A Round of Applause S 4a #
25ftish Climbs the corner and step system. Watch out for the ants! FA James Hoskin, Phil Mathews 2002A Pimp's Pleasure VS 5a #
25ftish Start on the arête just left of the borehole & BBB. Climb the arête until standing on a large foothold, gear in thin horizontal crack. Continue up the arête to finish up steps easily. FA James Hoskin, Phil Mathews 2002
Luxulyan Valley Quarry
(Nr st. austell cornwall) Grid ref: 059568
How to get there: The quarry is situated in Luxulyan Valley, from Luxlyan head through the valley under the aqueduct for about 2 min’s. You pass through some tight corners and past a couple of houses. Go under an old metal bridge, directly on the left is a small track, park here (don’t block the track off). Follow a small path down next to the railway the quarry is on the right.
A Muppets Day Out HVS 5a #
50ftish The striking corner situated in the centre of the main wall. Climb the corner in its entirety, belay on the pedestal (thread). No second pitch to date; retreat was via poor thread on belay. FA James Hoskin, Ian Stocker 2001
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This file last modified
2 August, 2006.