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SANDYMOUTH
"All routes on "The Flame" have had all the grass and growth removed and reclimbed. With all of these routes in good condition and the 2 new additions it gives a great days climbing in the winter for a team operating at these grades it is warm/south facing and it has easy access and you can get in and out 2 hours either side of high tide."
The first route is on a south facing wall on the right (landward side) just before you reach the free standing block of "The Flame". If approaching from the sandymouth carpark, it is halfway along the wall at its highest point and has a large oval blob at around half hight.
Rise of the Pheonix
E3 /4 6a * #
The route takes a good natural line based around a thin crack/seam giving
fine climbing on interesting intricate features (Micro Camalots essential).
60ft Start below the thin crack which is gained by fingery moves, hand traverse
rightwards then blast up the wall to reach the oval blob (peg out right) stand
on the blob and climb the wall above to reach the top of a thin diagonal overlap
, then make a precarious rockover leftwards to reach the belay(Peg & Hex).
F.A. Stu Bradbury & Nick(Uni-loony) Cox,11/12/05 The Route was cleaned
of much growth and loose rock before it was led from the ground .
1) The Flame
VS 4b
This takes the left edge of the pinnacle.
2) Crazy from
the Heat E1 5b **
The best route here. Climb the corner on the left of the face, moving left
around the first overhang into the upper corner. At the second overhang, move
right onto the main face, then climb directly to the top, passing some short
deep cracks. Excellent varied climbing. FA Stu Bradbury, Mark Kemball 3/3/06
(Immediately repeated by Nic Dill and Lee Bartrop, who confirmed the grade
and quality.)
3) Avon Calling
E3 5c *
Climb the arête just right of “Crazy from the Heat” (presumably
the right side of the crack in the original version) and continue in the same
line to the top.
(Cleaned and reclimbed March ’06).
4) Fire Dancer
E4/5 6a
Climb the face directly between “Avon Calling” and “The
Wick”; some interesting crimpy moves, but unfortunately very much an
eliminate. The grade depends on just how blinkered the climber is prepared
to be! (Good side runners are possible in both routes without stepping far
off the line, this significantly reduces the seriousness.)
5) The Wick E1
5b
Take the main central crackline of the face, moving into the right of the
two cracks near the top. From the ledge, continue to the summit for the full
experience.
6) Local Hero
E2 5c *
Take the right crack.
7) Blood on the
Tracks E4 6a * #
70ft The Staggered Arete on the right of "The Flame". Climb the
lower wall and pull over the overlap as for Local Hero, once over, move right
and up to gain the crack nr the arete by fingery moves and climb it to the
ledge, step out left on to the face to reach a good hold and follow the right
trending crack back towards the arete and the top. F.A. Stu Bradbury &
Nick(Uni-Loony)Cox. 21/12/05. "I backed off this route from the ledge
just a few days earlier while trying the onsight, I then removed mud and debris
from the finishing holds before getting back on it on 21/12."
