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MEADFOOT QUARRY (Page 143)
Drop Zone E6 6c * #
50ft The impending headwall between Peg's Progress and Clotted Cream has superb fall potential (which has been tested - although the expanding wire placement was cause for some concern). From the PR on Pegs Progress climb directly up the leaning wall to finish with hard moves slightly Rwards to a good hold at the top of Clotted Cream. FA Paul Twomey, Mark Reeves 26.4.95 (after top rope practice)
DADDYHOLE MAIN CLIFF
Good Dog E1 5b #
80ft Steep and well protected climbing up the wall between Caliban and Tobacco Road. Start to the R of Caliban, at a flat topped spike. Climb to a small roof, pull around this and move slightly L to a flake crack (good gear - slightly awkward to place). Move up this or a few feet then move R to avoid the loose finish by climbing a groove. Finish as for Tobacco Road. FA Dave Henderson, Craig Williams, Anthony Snow 18.4.98 (onsight)
Reddy Brek E4 6a #
80ft Start at top of shelf of unusual red rock to the L of Gargantua (big nut and thread), beneath a R facing flake. Reachy moves passing PR gain the flake. Follow this and the wall to the R until a step L can be made into Readymix. Climb Rwards as for Snakecharmer to its PR (replaced ‘95) and then direct on positive holds for 15 feet. Swing L into an exposed sloping niche and follow the wide crack through the bulge to join and finish up final corner of Gates of Eden. FA Clark Alston, Paul Twomey 31.5.95
Mr.Orange E5 6b #
100ft Start as for Reddy Brek. Clip it's first PR then traverse R on good holds to the arete. Follow the arete and L wall (avoiding the obvious option of stepping onto Gargantua), past Snakecharmer's PR and difficult moves to gain Gates…..niche. Attack the 45 degree roof above, with a desperate move (especially if short) to gain the wall above. Follow the arete on "Daddyhole's finest" to the top. FA Paul Twomey, Clark alston 31.5.95 (onsight)
Blubberbeast E6 6b * #
70ft According to Martin “The central crack in the wall left of Triton is something of a last “gut” problem, I hear? The harder of the trio on the wall, but not as hard as expected!” The easiest approach is to abseil from the top of the crag to a stance beneath the leaning wall - alternatively follow the first pitch of Triton. Climb Lwards from the corner and place a good wire in the groove of Porno for Pyros. Reach a sharp flake and a handrail above and left. From 2 good PR’s in the handrail pass a “blankish” section with a long move to gain the crack, Rock 2, and progress up this on improving holds to the top. FA Martin Crocker, Dave Henderson 10.7.95 (Flashed)
The chimney on Pitch 1 of Gates of Eden has suffered major rock fall – this Pitch is now worth VS/HVS and is no longer a chimney!
The pegs on Beast of Eden E5 are now in a fairly poor state. The route is heavily reliant on these and is now a more serious proposition.
Naked Surprise VS 4c 30ft S0
30ft Named after the sighting of some sunbathing ladies. "Worth a laugh". Abseil off the Lhand side of sea platform opposite Megatarts wall. From high water mark follow obvious R to L diagonal quartz line for it's entirety, surmounting block easily to finish. Deep water solo. FA Rob Cook, Mike Pearce 16.9.95 (solo)
The R arete of the wall goes at about HVS 5a S0 and there are also several worthwhile traverses.
The following routes are both left of Saline and have the benefit of Deep Water at any state of the tide.
PowerLockSplashDown XS 6a S0
30ft Superb rock and the difficulties are low down. From the L end of the ledge below the Saline corner climb straight up the overhanging white arete, with a tough lock to reach a niche. Finish direct over easier bulges. FA Martin Crocker 4.10.98 (onsight solo)
Eventide XS 5c S0
35ft From the foot of Saline, traverse L and up for 10ft to a large, rounded, undercut spike (as for Pinnacle Traverse Continuation). Climb awkwardly through bulges and exit steeply. FA Martin Crocker 4.10.98 (onsight solo)
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