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Fairy Cave Quarry

The "Last Best Crag in England" has been developed by a group of keen locals this summer. First climbed on in 1992 by members of the Cerberus Speleological Society (CSS) Fairy Cave Quarry has been feverishly climbed upon this year. With past access issues seeming to have evaporated the crag has seen stacks of activity this year. There are now 65 routes from Diff to E6. Robís Crack VS (CSS), Volume Eleven E2 (Mike Raine) and Four Steps to Heaven (Ian Butterworth) , Cessini Division (Mike Hammill) and Moving Target (Steve Franklin/Mike Hammill)have all been confirmed as three star routes, whatís more they are all 45 metres long and climb on natural limestone bedding planes exposed by the quarrying this gives them a natural feel despite the quarried surroundings. One of the most popular areas as proved to be the Glacis at the right-hand end which sports perfect rock. The star attraction is Glacial Point at E4 5c, first led by Richard Broomhead, but this area has some excellent lower grade climbs too, Caveman, Jiggery Pokey and Lunar Landscape will suit the VS slab climber. Jive Talkiní and Strictly Ballroom will keep the E2 climber guessing. See photo topo. Full details will be in the forthcoming Avon and Cheddar Guide which will reveal several other new crags in the East Mendips

Glacis Topo
1) Peanuts VS 4c
2) Lunar Landscape VS 4c *
3) Pueblo V.Diff
4) Ash Tree Wall VS 4c
5) Caveman VS 4c *
6) Jiggery Pokey VS 4c *
7) Glacial Point E4 5c **
8) Slight of Hand E2 5c *
9) Lornaís Lunch Severe
10) Pocket Polka Severe
11) Jive Talkiní E1 5b **
12) 12 Minute Waltz V. Diff
13) Strictly Ballroom E2 5b **

All these routes by Richard Broomhead and Jack Stanbury Photo Tope by Richard Broomhead


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