Hard Bouldering in the South West UK

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HARD DARTMOOR BOULDERING

A few notes: This list may not be definitive - please send in details of any repeats or othe problems which may be missing.

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PROBLEM GRADE CRAG DESCRIPTION FIRST ASCENT REPEATS COMMENTS

Land Spider V7 6b Bovey Woods Spideland in reverse with sitting start up left arete. Dave H 2008 Craig Williams May 2008 Another pump fest.

Dot Green V8+ 6b/c Bovey Woods Link-up on Green Dot Traverse. Start sitting beneath left arete, reverse Green Dot Traverse then top out on right arete. Dave H 2008 None Very long with a fluffable finish.

Sniffer Dog V7 6c Bovey Woods Left to right of break beneath Underdog. Dave H 2008 None Quite sharp and requires use of the abs.

Buena Vista V9 6c Bovey Woods Left to right traverse on same block as Spiderland, with low start on left. Dave H 2008 None A bit awkward with a pumpy finish.

Spiderland V7 6b Bovey Woods A mammoth traverse on an overhanging block up above The Long Wall at Shaptor.
Tom Rainbow
2007
Dave H 2007 A pump fest on mostly large but sharp holds.

Finger Ripping Good V7 6b Bovey Woods Traverse along the crack on the low block just left of The back of beyond boulder.
Jason Maddick
Autumn 06
Craig Williams , Dave H2008 Slightly sharp. Now with sit start from low on left to improve the problem.

Calcaneium Crisis

V7 6c Bovey Woods The arete on the large block 300 yards left of Long wall
Jason "The Ghost" Maddick
Spring 2007
Tom Rainbow, Jon Wilson, Dave Henderson Crimpy moves followed by a big slap to easier climbing above. Named after Jason's ankle breaking fall from an earlier attempt!

Devon Sent
V10 Bovey Woods Gently overhanging, painful and very technical. Highball. Dave Henderson 04 None Very hard on the tips and pretty sequency. Originally given V9 but upgraded by first ascentionist to attract repeats!

Nether Edge V7 Bovey Woods An excellent and high line. Take several mats! Jon Wilson 07 John McShea, Tom Rainbow, Richard Smith, Ted Kingsnorth Had seen attempts from a number of climbers including Tom Rainbow, Ken Palmer and Cad Mullin before Jon succeeded.

Cavey Davey
V9 Bovey Woods Slappy slap followed by tricky rockover on crystals. Dave Henderson 04 Craig Williams 2007 Hard on the tips and maybe English 7a.

William Shaptor V8+ Bovey Woods Essentially 3 or 4 hard moves up a very slightly leaning wall on poor holds. Dave Henderson 04 None Can look a bit mingin' but is excellent. The green slime brushes of easily!

Slotted Wall V7 Bovey Woods Leaning wall on slopers leads to lunge to finish. Dave Henderson 04 More than 5 This Benchmark V7 is one of the best hard problems on The Moor.

Slotted Wall Traverse V8+ Bovey Woods A traverse in Slotted Wall from around the arête to the left. Dave Henderson 04 None A long link-up; the finish of Slotted Wall can feel tricky.

Slotted Left Hand V8+ Bovey Woods A variation finish to Slotted Wall, traversing a thin break out left. Dave Henderson 04 None A little dirty – maybe easier if cleaner.

Walnut Traverse V7 Bovey Woods A fine low level lip traverse with some good heel hook action. Dave Henderson 04 Craig Williams 2008 Possibly low in the grade?

Green Dot Traverse V8 Bovey Woods A lip traverse on slopers. Dave Henderson 04 More than 5 The grade can be reduced slightly by using extra holds in the middle and getting good conditions!

Super Trooper
V8 Saddle Tor See guide for details! Dave Henderson More than 5 Originally attempted by a team of Richie Patterson, Simon Young, Dave Henderson and Dave Ferguson but with no success… DH snook back the next day – the moor was covered in mist and the crag wasn’t visible from the car park,… fortunately conditions were surprisingly OK!

Dancing Queen
V7 Saddle Tor See guide for details! Dave Henderson ’95 ish More than 5 Modern classic – super sustained 6b climbing

Super Dancing Trooper V9 Saddle Tor A long link up from start of Super Trooper to DQ then back left to finish of ST. See guide for details! Dave Henderson None A link up with an easy-to-fail-on-last-move!

Hidden Low V7 Saddle Tor Low version of classic V4 Hidden Traverse – obviously! See guide for details!
John Gaskins (L to R), Dave Henderson (R to L)
More than 5. One of the Moor's many tricky traverses.

Hidden Low there and back V10 Saddle Tor Start on shelf on left, all the way right to god hold, then back to finish moving up onto Hidden Traverse where you would otherwise have to drop down to starting shelf. Dave Henderson 04 Cad Mullin I think A plod with some hard moves.

Abba Gold V11 Saddle Tor A long traverse starting on the far left and finishing up Dancing Queen. Dave Henderson 03 Ben Bransby Practically a route – a very long traverse taking in all the best and hardest of Saddle Tor.

Problem 15 V7 Saddle Tor Right hand finish to Dancing Queen Dave Henderson Alexis Perry

Problem 16 V8 Saddle Tor See guide Dave Henderson None?

Foals Chopper Sit Start V9? Saddle Tor John Gaskins Rob Sutton, some geeza

Saddle Tor Traverse V10 Saddle Tor Another long traverse! Dave Henderson, Ted Kingsnorth None? Similar to Abba Gold but with a different start and finish.

Yorkshire Tea V7 Smallacombe Rocks A powerful and tricky sit start. See problem 23b in guide Craig Williams 2007 None

Problem 9 ! V7 Bonehill A bunched low traverse with tricky foot-holds. Dave Henderson About 97 Craig Williams 07, maybe others?

The Cube Traverse V8+ Bonehill See guide Dave Henderson About 96 None?

The Moor
V9 Bonehill See guide Dave Henderson
About 96 Gaskins, Andy Whall... Hard slap which is conditions dependant. English 7a

Lowla . V8 Bonehill An extened start to a classic V5 traverse. Dave Henderson About 96 Craig Williams, several? Has been done "there and back". The extended finish is The Cube Traverse V9

Arkem V8 Bonehill Excellent moves. Dave Henderson
About 97 Cad Mullin and probably others. A slightly easier sequence is possible for tall climbers!

The Dark Side
V8 Bonehill See guide
Dave Henderson About 96
John Gaskins, Cad Mullin The hardest slab (or is it a wall?) on the Moor is very rarely climbed.

Innoculation V8+ Bonehill See guide Dave Henderson 2000 ish Craig "Y Biceps" Williams Bum start with a good move or 2. Eliminate. Maybe easy english 7a.

Left Hander V7 Bonehill Gain the gnarly "monkey paw" hold on The Wave that is normally used with right hand then lay one on for the break. Dave Henderson Cad Mullin Eliminate variation based on The Wave. Can be linked into from Tsunami to give variation finish at V10.

The Wave Traverse V9/10 Bonehill See guide.
Dave Henderson
Late 90's
More than 5.

Tsunami V10 Bonehill The Wave Traverse from low left to finish up the Wave Original. Dave Henderson
Late 90’s More than 5 An extension is possible – go all the way right then back left along same break to finish of The Wave. V11? (DH 200?

Floater V9 Bonehill A recent addition taking the higher traverse line on the Wave. Dave Henderson 2007 None Surprisingly tough on the skin and with a section of poor landing. Good, obvious line.

Wave Sit Start V8 Bonehill A sit start to the classis Wave problem. Cad Mullin None? A good extension which is a tad reachy.

The Green Room V11/12 Bonehill The big link on The Wave starts on the far left and finishes on far right, incorporating various other problems. Dave Henderson 2007 None A long anaerobic challenge.

Left Arete of The Scoop V8 Bonehill See guide Dave Henderson About ‘95 More than 5. Conditions and reach dependent (slightly easier if you can keep right foot on "good" hold)

Ivory Mountain V9 Bonehill The arête to the left of left arête of The Scoop. Start hanging from rail on left. DH About ‘98 Cad Mullin 2008 Powerful, technical, balancy, dirty-looking and excellent.

Rippled Wall Bum Start V9 Bonehill Bum start from from cave under Rippled Wall. John Gaskins Late 90’s ish None A problem that no-one can seem to figure out a feasible sequence.

Vixen Tor Traverse V7 Vixen Tor A left to right traverse of block left of Dockers Dilemma Ken Palmer 90's Mullin, Henderson A long traverse! An extended start around the arête to the left is possible (V8)

Schmogon V8+ Holwell Tor Bum start up arête beneath Dogon leads to rockover onto slab up left. Dave Henderson 2002 ish None Quite a long problem with a hard start and tricky rockover to finish. First class.

Easdon Arete V7 Easdon Rocks The steep arête at Whooping Rock, Easdon Tor. Dave Henderson 2000 ish More than 5. Incredible line. Originally climbed with a duff sequence at V8+. Top tip: heel hook on right.

Le Coq Sit start V7 Gidleigh Woods Caedmon Mullin 2004? Dave Henderson, Rob Sutton?, Stu Littlefair? Excellent low start to an existing problem. Easier when you've done it once!

Dark Devotion V8+ Gidleigh Woods Cad Mullin 2002? Robin Sutton Featured in Gone West with a suspect-looking couple of semi-naked chaps! Either clipping yourself or spotters into a rope at the base is normal!

Tuppy V9 Hound Tor Sit start of left side of Stray Dog boulder. Cad Mullin 2008 None An excellent problem from Mr Mullin. Maybe a bit reachy on the first move.

Were you here? V7 Hound Tor Lower start to Wish. See guide for details. Craig Williams Dave Henderson A perfect start to an already classic problem. Poor holds but timing and body position make it a beauty!

Alan Smith V9 Hound Tor A hard slap. See guide for details. Dave Henderson 2003 More than 5 The cleaning of additional holds post first ascent has made the top easier but the problem remains V9. English 7a.

Jayne V7 Hound Tor The left hand variant of Alan Smith. See guide for details. Dave Henderson 2006 Craig Willaims Only recently noticed but turned out to be an excellent find on slopers.

Stray Dog (Gone Defective) V10 Hound Tor See guide Dave Henderson 2004 None A desperate lip traverse on poor holds! Origianlly V9 then upgraded to encourage repeats!

Mako V11 Hound Tor The left to right head-height traverse of The Shark's Fin.
Dave Henderson 2007
Mick Adams 2008 A challenging traverse with poor hand grips and footholds. The holds in the middle scoop seem to be improving as crystals break off.

The Cream Traverse V8 Hound Tor Slopey lip traverse. Dave Henderson 2000 More than 5. Good conditions make a big difference. Classic. Has been done footless and "there and back and there again"

Traverse 57 V7 Cuckoo Rock Problem 57 on topo. Ken Palmer Back in the 60’s Dave Henderson, possibly others

Flying Visit V9 Honeybag Tor The flying arete marked as problem on topo. James Pearson 2006 None A few slaps and a crucial footlock. Spotter and mat handy.

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PROBLEM	GRADE	CRAG	DESCRIPTION	FIRST ASCENT	REPEATS	COMMENTS
Land Spider	V7 6b	Bovey Woods	Spideland in reverse with sitting start up left arete.	Dave H 2008	Craig Williams May 2008	Another pump fest.
Dot Green	V8+ 6b/c	Bovey Woods	Link-up on Green Dot Traverse. Start sitting beneath left arete, reverse Green Dot Traverse then top out on right arete.	Dave H 2008	None	Very long with a fluffable finish.
Sniffer Dog	V7 6c	Bovey Woods	Left to right of break beneath Underdog.	Dave H 2008	None	Quite sharp and requires use of the abs.
Buena Vista	V9 6c	Bovey Woods	Left to right traverse on same block as Spiderland, with low start on left.	Dave H 2008	None	A bit awkward with a pumpy finish.
Spiderland	V7 6b	Bovey Woods	A mammoth traverse on an overhanging block up above The Long Wall at Shaptor.	Tom Rainbow 2007	Dave H 2007	A pump fest on mostly large but sharp holds.
Finger Ripping Good	V7 6b	Bovey Woods	Traverse along the crack on the low block just left of The back of beyond boulder.	Jason Maddick Autumn 06	Craig Williams , Dave H2008	Slightly sharp. Now with sit start from low on left to improve the problem.
Calcaneium Crisis	V7 6c	Bovey Woods	The arete on the large block 300 yards left of Long wall	Jason "The Ghost" Maddick Spring 2007	Tom Rainbow, Jon Wilson, Dave Henderson	Crimpy moves followed by a big slap to easier climbing above. Named after Jason's ankle breaking fall from an earlier attempt!
Devon Sent	V10	Bovey Woods	Gently overhanging, painful and very technical. Highball.	Dave Henderson 04	None	Very hard on the tips and pretty sequency. Originally given V9 but upgraded by first ascentionist to attract repeats!
Nether Edge	V7	Bovey Woods	An excellent and high line. Take several mats!	Jon Wilson 07	John McShea, Tom Rainbow, Richard Smith, Ted Kingsnorth	Had seen attempts from a number of climbers including Tom Rainbow, Ken Palmer and Cad Mullin before Jon succeeded.
Cavey Davey	V9	Bovey Woods	Slappy slap followed by tricky rockover on crystals.	Dave Henderson 04	Craig Williams 2007	Hard on the tips and maybe English 7a.
William Shaptor	V8+	Bovey Woods	Essentially 3 or 4 hard moves up a very slightly leaning wall on poor holds.	Dave Henderson 04	None	Can look a bit mingin' but is excellent. The green slime brushes of easily!
Slotted Wall	V7	Bovey Woods	Leaning wall on slopers leads to lunge to finish.	Dave Henderson 04	More than 5	This Benchmark V7 is one of the best hard problems on The Moor.
Slotted Wall Traverse	V8+	Bovey Woods	A traverse in Slotted Wall from around the arête to the left.	Dave Henderson 04	None	A long link-up; the finish of Slotted Wall can feel tricky.
Slotted Left Hand	V8+	Bovey Woods	A variation finish to Slotted Wall, traversing a thin break out left.	Dave Henderson 04	None	A little dirty – maybe easier if cleaner.
Walnut Traverse	V7	Bovey Woods	A fine low level lip traverse with some good heel hook action.	Dave Henderson 04	Craig Williams 2008	Possibly low in the grade?
Green Dot Traverse	V8	Bovey Woods	A lip traverse on slopers.	Dave Henderson 04	More than 5	The grade can be reduced slightly by using extra holds in the middle and getting good conditions!
Super Trooper	V8	Saddle Tor	See guide for details!	Dave Henderson	More than 5	Originally attempted by a team of Richie Patterson, Simon Young, Dave Henderson and Dave Ferguson but with no success… DH snook back the next day – the moor was covered in mist and the crag wasn’t visible from the car park,… fortunately conditions were surprisingly OK!
Dancing Queen	V7	Saddle Tor	See guide for details!	Dave Henderson ’95 ish	More than 5	Modern classic – super sustained 6b climbing
Super Dancing Trooper	V9	Saddle Tor	A long link up from start of Super Trooper to DQ then back left to finish of ST. See guide for details!	Dave Henderson	None	A link up with an easy-to-fail-on-last-move!
Hidden Low	V7	Saddle Tor	Low version of classic V4 Hidden Traverse – obviously! See guide for details!	John Gaskins (L to R), Dave Henderson (R to L)	More than 5.	One of the Moor's many tricky traverses.
Hidden Low there and back	V10	Saddle Tor	Start on shelf on left, all the way right to god hold, then back to finish moving up onto Hidden Traverse where you would otherwise have to drop down to starting shelf.	Dave Henderson 04	Cad Mullin I think	A plod with some hard moves.
Abba Gold	V11	Saddle Tor	A long traverse starting on the far left and finishing up Dancing Queen.	Dave Henderson 03	Ben Bransby	Practically a route – a very long traverse taking in all the best and hardest of Saddle Tor.
Problem 15	V7	Saddle Tor	Right hand finish to Dancing Queen	Dave Henderson	Alexis Perry
Problem 16	V8	Saddle Tor	See guide	Dave Henderson	None?
Foals Chopper Sit Start	V9?	Saddle Tor		John Gaskins	Rob Sutton, some geeza
Saddle Tor Traverse	V10	Saddle Tor	Another long traverse!	Dave Henderson, Ted Kingsnorth	None?	Similar to Abba Gold but with a different start and finish.
Yorkshire Tea	V7	Smallacombe Rocks	A powerful and tricky sit start. See problem 23b in guide	Craig Williams 2007	None
Problem 9 !	V7	Bonehill	A bunched low traverse with tricky foot-holds.	Dave Henderson About 97	Craig Williams 07, maybe others?
The Cube Traverse	V8+	Bonehill	See guide	Dave Henderson About 96	None?
The Moor	V9	Bonehill	See guide	Dave Henderson About 96	Gaskins, Andy Whall...	Hard slap which is conditions dependant. English 7a
Lowla .	V8	Bonehill	An extened start to a classic V5 traverse.	Dave Henderson About 96	Craig Williams, several?	Has been done "there and back". The extended finish is The Cube Traverse V9
Arkem	V8	Bonehill	Excellent moves.	Dave Henderson About 97	Cad Mullin and probably others.	A slightly easier sequence is possible for tall climbers!
The Dark Side	V8	Bonehill	See guide	Dave Henderson About 96	John Gaskins, Cad Mullin	The hardest slab (or is it a wall?) on the Moor is very rarely climbed.
Innoculation	V8+	Bonehill	See guide	Dave Henderson 2000 ish	Craig "Y Biceps" Williams	Bum start with a good move or 2. Eliminate. Maybe easy english 7a.
Left Hander	V7	Bonehill	Gain the gnarly "monkey paw" hold on The Wave that is normally used with right hand then lay one on for the break.	Dave Henderson	Cad Mullin	Eliminate variation based on The Wave. Can be linked into from Tsunami to give variation finish at V10.
The Wave Traverse	V9/10	Bonehill	See guide.	Dave Henderson Late 90's	More than 5.
Tsunami	V10	Bonehill	The Wave Traverse from low left to finish up the Wave Original.	Dave Henderson Late 90’s	More than 5	An extension is possible – go all the way right then back left along same break to finish of The Wave. V11? (DH 200?
Floater	V9	Bonehill	A recent addition taking the higher traverse line on the Wave.	Dave Henderson 2007	None	Surprisingly tough on the skin and with a section of poor landing. Good, obvious line.
Wave Sit Start	V8	Bonehill	A sit start to the classis Wave problem.	Cad Mullin	None?	A good extension which is a tad reachy.
The Green Room	V11/12	Bonehill	The big link on The Wave starts on the far left and finishes on far right, incorporating various other problems.	Dave Henderson 2007	None	A long anaerobic challenge.
Left Arete of The Scoop	V8	Bonehill	See guide	Dave Henderson About ‘95	More than 5.	Conditions and reach dependent (slightly easier if you can keep right foot on "good" hold)
Ivory Mountain	V9	Bonehill	The arête to the left of left arête of The Scoop. Start hanging from rail on left.	DH About ‘98	Cad Mullin 2008	Powerful, technical, balancy, dirty-looking and excellent.
Rippled Wall Bum Start	V9	Bonehill	Bum start from from cave under Rippled Wall.	John Gaskins Late 90’s ish	None	A problem that no-one can seem to figure out a feasible sequence.
Vixen Tor Traverse	V7	Vixen Tor	A left to right traverse of block left of Dockers Dilemma	Ken Palmer 90's	Mullin, Henderson	A long traverse! An extended start around the arête to the left is possible (V8)
Schmogon	V8+	Holwell Tor	Bum start up arête beneath Dogon leads to rockover onto slab up left.	Dave Henderson 2002 ish	None	Quite a long problem with a hard start and tricky rockover to finish. First class.
Easdon Arete	V7	Easdon Rocks	The steep arête at Whooping Rock, Easdon Tor.	Dave Henderson 2000 ish	More than 5.	Incredible line. Originally climbed with a duff sequence at V8+. Top tip: heel hook on right.
Le Coq Sit start	V7	Gidleigh Woods		Caedmon Mullin 2004?	Dave Henderson, Rob Sutton?, Stu Littlefair?	Excellent low start to an existing problem. Easier when you've done it once!
Dark Devotion	V8+	Gidleigh Woods		Cad Mullin 2002?	Robin Sutton	Featured in Gone West with a suspect-looking couple of semi-naked chaps! Either clipping yourself or spotters into a rope at the base is normal!
Tuppy	V9	Hound Tor	Sit start of left side of Stray Dog boulder.	Cad Mullin 2008	None	An excellent problem from Mr Mullin. Maybe a bit reachy on the first move.
Were you here?	V7	Hound Tor	Lower start to Wish. See guide for details.	Craig Williams	Dave Henderson	A perfect start to an already classic problem. Poor holds but timing and body position make it a beauty!
Alan Smith	V9	Hound Tor	A hard slap. See guide for details.	Dave Henderson 2003	More than 5	The cleaning of additional holds post first ascent has made the top easier but the problem remains V9. English 7a.
Jayne	V7	Hound Tor	The left hand variant of Alan Smith. See guide for details.	Dave Henderson 2006	Craig Willaims	Only recently noticed but turned out to be an excellent find on slopers.
Stray Dog (Gone Defective)	V10	Hound Tor	See guide	Dave Henderson 2004	None	A desperate lip traverse on poor holds! Origianlly V9 then upgraded to encourage repeats!
Mako	V11	Hound Tor	The left to right head-height traverse of The Shark's Fin.	Dave Henderson 2007	Mick Adams 2008	A challenging traverse with poor hand grips and footholds. The holds in the middle scoop seem to be improving as crystals break off.
The Cream Traverse	V8	Hound Tor	Slopey lip traverse.	Dave Henderson 2000	More than 5.	Good conditions make a big difference. Classic. Has been done footless and "there and back and there again"
Traverse 57	V7	Cuckoo Rock	Problem 57 on topo.	Ken Palmer Back in the 60’s	Dave Henderson, possibly others
Flying Visit	V9	Honeybag Tor	The flying arete marked as problem on topo.	James Pearson 2006	None	A few slaps and a crucial footlock. Spotter and mat handy.
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