BLACK
HEAD
GR 944 644
Situation and Character: A very friendly E to NE facing wall which, although short, has some of the best quality rock in Torbay (none of the routes required any cleaning). Virtually non-tidal (although 2 hours either side of high tide is recommended for the Deep Water Solos), but best avoided if a heavy swell is running, the main features are an overhung bay below a prow, a large central groove and a cave at the right hand end. The routes are described from right to left. Note: it is advisable to pre-place a rope to tree belays set well back. There is also a Deep Water Solo guide to the crag.
Approach and access: If approaching from Babbacombe drive past the DIY centre car park then take the next turning on the L (passing big hotel on corner). Follow this road a short distance to a Pay and Display Car Park on the R. Park here then follow the Hope's Nose (the headland to the S of Anstey's Cove) path. 260 yards past prominent concrete shelter a track branches off Lwards (not to be mistaken with another track with wooden steps just before). Follow the path down to the cliff top and continue S until an obvious steep descent path is reached, complete with in-situ string. Alternatively follow the first 2300ft of Morning Town Ride!
1)
Suspect Devices E2 5c #
25ft The obvious line through the overhang below the jutting prow.
Swing up L and climb the unhelpful crack to finish up the groove behind
the prow. FA Clark Alston, Steve Martin 6.4.97
A Variation finish E1 5c 25ft # moves R after pulling through the lower overhang. FA Ian Parnell Clark Alston Autumn 1997
2) Antiques Roadshow Severe
4a *
40ft The rising crack-line starting a few feet R of the previous route.
Finish direct from ledges. FA Clark Alton, Steve Martin 31.3.97
3) See Emily Play HVS 5a *
30ft The lovely grey slab more or less direct to a thin crack. Finish
as for Antiques Roadshow. FA Clark Alston, Steve Martin. 31.3.97
4) Lucy Lastic E1 5b
30ft The R facing groove just R of the slab. Start from the L and finish
direct. FA Clark Alston, Steve Martin 31.3.97
5) Big Red Rock Eater VS 4b
#
30ft The large central groove. On reaching the overhang traverse L to
finish up the arete. FA Clark Alston, Steve Martin 6.4.97
6) Sing Harpy E2 5b
30ft The innocuous looking R facing flake a few feet R of the groove.
Climb direct to the slanting crack and pull over into the shallow groove.
Finish direct. FA Clark Alston, Steve Martin 31.3.97
7) Homo Brittanicus E3 5c
**
30ft The wall above the "trench" at the Rhand side of the main ledge.
Pull direct over the overhang to reach an obvious slot (Friend 2.5) and
continue direct to an overlap. After hard moves R trend L up the slab to
finish as for Sing Harpy. FA Clark Alston, Steve Martin 6.4.97
8) Help the Aged E2 5b
30ft Start from the ledge R of the "trench". Trend L up the crinkly
black wall to the large hole (bold). Move R into the groove and follow this
to a step R to finish. FA Clark Alston, Steve Martin 31.3.97
9) Spacehopper E2 5c * #
30ft The fine white groove above the R side of the ledge. Enter the
groove from below the arete and follow it to a ledge on the left. Finish
direct up the cracked wall. FA Clark Alston, Steve Martin 6.4.97
10) Zit Alors E2 5c
30ft Start as for Spacehopper but step R and climb the scooped face
direct. Finish up a groove. FA Clark Alston, Ian Parnell Autumn 1997 The
following two routes are best ascended in the deep water solo style - mid
tide or above is required.
11) Bazuka E3 5b **
50ft An excellent traverse of the cave. Follow the obvious line of large
holds into the cave, up to the roof and across a short hanging wall. FFA
Dave Henderson 5.7.98 (onsight solo) FA Ian Parnell, Clark Alston Autumn
1997 (originally called Warts 'N' All). See also the Deep
Water Solo Guide to the crag!
Veruca XS 6a/b S1
50ft Traverse to the back of the cave from either side then gain an
obvious traverse line leading out to gain a "sit down stuff your legs in"
rest. From here stretch out right to gain edges on a hanging wall then make
some exciting moves to gain large flaky jugs. A few more moves gain a corner
and thus a large ledge. FA Dave Henderson 5.7.98 (onsight solo) (the start
described was climbed about a week later) See also the Deep
Water Solo Guide to the crag!
Gormless E3 5c #
40ft A pointless piece of trivia! Start up Sing Harpy, traverse R at
the level of a slot (jammed wire) into Homo Brittanicus. Keep going R past
Help the Aged and finish up the short arete to the right. FA Clark Alston,
Ian Parnell Autumn 1997
Based on original text by Clark Alston - cheers Clark, you're da main man!
