South West Climbing guides - Chudleigh Rocks

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Chudleigh Rocks

Fixed gear updates:

In general, pegs at Chudleigh are in reasonable condition and more often than not can be backed up adequately. Of particular note however, are the ring pegs (Cassin) which may not be entirely trustworthy despite their shiny appearance - as always back up where possible and consider tying them off (it's the ring that's the dodgy bit). Here's an update on the current state of pegs:

Big Bird 2nd peg pretty rusty. Should be backupable to the left.
Dripdry pitch 1 Both threads now replaced (2008)
Dripdry Pitch 2 # Re-climb/grade required!! # The top pitch to Drip Dry probably hasn't been climbed for years and now has a peg missing. About E6 in it's current state unless new good gear is found in place of the peg (looks unlikely). Awaits a re-climb.
Gagool / Logic First ring peg useless - good wires just above. Abseil station - tat replaced (2009) and karabiner added (2008).
Slyboots McCall Reliant on pegs that look OK. SkyHook useful for the start.
Combined Ops First peg missing, 2nd is poor. Both can be backed up with small wires. E2
Tendonitis The first peg (with tat on - rope replaced 2008) is dubious. Don't forget to back it up with a small wire (about Rock 1) in the Combat flake. Abseil station - tat replaced (July 2010); steel karabiner added 2008. Please avoid lowering directly off the maillon on the bolt as this melts the equalised anchor rope.
White Edge Pegs on first pitch look a bit dodgy but the route is still probably E1. Some loose blocks on pitch 2 so take care. Note that the White Edge/Concerto link up is well worth doing!
Saturn Five Pegs all a bit rusty but there are 3 close together and other gear to back them up. Tat replaced 2008.
Major Tom 1st pegs rusty so traversing at the lower level is advisable. Top peg looks OK but hard to clip (back up gear in the roof).
Loot Very poor peg but big Hex/Friend nearby.
Twang Peg now snapped off - grade (E1) not really affected as gear just above the old peg placement.
Panga First peg is a channel in reasonable condition - not really needed as backup options available. Second peg is a Lost Arrow which is dubious (2011). Belay/lower-off consists of one "good" looking and one "ok" looking peg - replaced sling / maillon with rope and ab. ring.
Machete Wall Crucial pegs look OK and are quite close together. Bottom peg now missing. E2
Mortality Crisis The first and third pegs are shiny Cassin ring pegs (some doubt over the rings so back up and tie off). The second peg in the groove (shared with Penny Lane) looks attrocious and is totally rusty - small wire above and below. Top thread replaced in 2010. Abseil station - tat replaced and karabiner added 2008.
Inkerman Groove Direct. First peg's poor (but easy to back up). Second peg (in roof just below traverse on orginal) looks OK and there's gear nearby)

Machete Wall/Inkerman Groove/Mortality Crisis belay/abseil station. Pegs a bit dubious and could do with replacing.
Black Death/White Life First peg (above niche) is a tied-off Cassin ring. It appears OK but it's worth clipping both the tie-off and ring, and backing up with a small wire just above. The pegs above on White Life all seem to be in OK condition.
Never on a Sunday Leap Year Finish There's no longer a peg after the crux, so it's a little bolder than it probably once was. There are good small nuts in the flake before the crux.
The Spider The peg on the first pitch is now dead, restoring the pitch to it's classic bold E1 5a status.

Assume in-situ gear to be dodgy and back up / retreat if necessary!

Please send in any further updates

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