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Back to South Coast New routes

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PORTHGUARNON EAST
OS Ref 409 229

UPPER TIER

Bon Chance HVS 5b
18 metres Start 2 metres left of Chance Encounter. Step right off the boulder to the base of a thin crack, which is followed, with difficulty at first, until the edge of the groove on the left can be gained and climbed. Climb the easier cracks above, and step right to finish past the roof.
FA: Pete O'Sullivan and Rik Meek 15/07/01

Coiled Stick HVS 5a #
18 metres Between the huge block of Close Encounter and the arete of Chance Encounter is another, smaller, leaning block; start below this. Climb the face of the block easily to a ledge. Step up and then leftwards to climb the thin, cleaned cracks near the arete to another ledge. Pull into the fine continuation crack, and finish over the roof.
FA Rik Meek and Pete O'Sullivan 15/07/00

Porcupine VS 4c
The main slab has a big ramp leading up to it. Left of this is a subsidiary slab diivided from the main slab by a channel a couple of feet wide. Start at the right hand end of the short vertical wall beneath the subsidiary slab, and just left of the main channel splitting the upper tier. Climb the short vertical wall awkwardly via a curving off width, then gain the slab above. Continue up the cracks above on the right side of the subsidiary slab, with increasing ease, to the top (just left of the roof that caps the main slab).
FA Jonathan Teale/ Louise Targett. 16/07/ 2001

LOWER TIER (sea level)

These first two routes are between Undertaker's Crack and The Hearse.

Time Waster V. Diff
60 feet The shallow black corner 15 feet right of Undertaker's Crack finishing up lichenous slabs.
FRA. (first recorded ascent): B. Carver (solo) 11th May 2002. Climbed on-sight.

Crisp Sev 4a
60 feet Climb a thin flake/seam 5 feet left of The Hearse and finish up slabs.
FRA B. Carver (solo) 11th May 2002. Climbed on-sight.

The next two routes are between The Hearse and Toy Story.

Some Things Can Wait HS 4c
60 feet Start just right of The Hearse, climb the slab passing over a bulge to lay-back flakes. Finish Direct.
FRA B. Carver (solo) 11th May 2002. Climbed on-sight.

Toy Story 2 Sev 4b
60 feet The slab and cracks just right of the previous route.
FRA B. Carver (solo) 11th May 2002. Climbed on-sight.

This next route is between Iron Bells and Moaning Minnie.

Cranberry Juice HVS 5a
60 feet (11-05-2002) Climb the left side of the blunt arete 5 feet right of Iron Bells move through the small overlap above and finish up the corner.
FRA B. Carver (solo) 11th May 2002. Climbed on-sight.

The last route is on a small tidal slab and starts between Fill Yer Pants and Flake Crack.

Straight Crack Sev 4a
35 feet Start at the step down in the approach ledge. Climb the vertical fault line and where it finishes climb leftwards to the top staying left of Flake Crack.
FRA B. Carver (solo) 11th May 2002. Climbed on-sight.

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... still on the Lower Tier:

Odalisque VS 4c
60 ft Start as for Sheik Shaker. Follow a line just right of this to a ledge. Climb the obvious thin ramp between Sheik Shaker and Concubine, to the right of the obvious fin, finishing above it. FA Brian Hannon, Rik Meek, Pete O'Sullivan - 12/05/02

Castrato E1 5b
60 ft Start right of Eunuch, at low water. 1. 4b Lean across the trench to an arete. Climb this, with increasing ease, to a wide ledge. 2. 5b Above, to the right of the ramp of concubine, is a steep slab. Climb the right hand blunt arete of this to a less steep slab. Up this, then steep moves up and right to finish. Climbed in two pitches to allow a spotter for the bold crux! FA Rik Meek (1) / Brian Hannon (2), Pete O'Sullivan -12/05/02

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