South Devon and Dartmoor New Routes. Hazard Quarry

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HAZARD QUARRY

Note: When visiting this venue please call in at Hazard Farm (first on the R when you've turned off the main road) to ask permission to climb and drop off a disclaimer.

Update on access: The current access situation is unclear. Discretion advised and please leave if asked to do so. There is also a protected bird nesting on the crag - although this is on the far left there is now an access restriction from Mid-March to the end of July on the whole crag. This restriction has been enforced - unsuspecting and unkowing climbers were removed by an armed response Police unit.

In addition to the following new routes other news from Hazard is that Garth E5 6a Fr.7b has received it's first solo ascent. Also Ken Palmer and Matt Cooper have repeated Therapeutic Structures E6 6c Fr.7c+

Apparition E3 5c **
60ft This fine, technical route climbs the line of staple BR's to the left of Boltin' Hazard. FA Dick Underwood 1997

Swings and Roundabouts E4 6b/c #
60ft A steep (horizontal) boulder problem start through the roof R of Banzai leads, via a flake, to a bolt on the R. Follow a Rward trending crack to a corner at the end of Banzai's traverse. TR. Move up through the roof, via a BR and long reach, to gain good holds. Pull around onto the slab and then finish rightwards to a belay/lower off shared with Samourai and Banzai. FA Jason Privett 1997.

Tarzan E5 6b **
60ft Despite some dusty bits this route is one of the most memorable around thanks to an awesome jump/lunge for a hanging tree branch. Start up Groove Rider then traverse the ledge leftwards beneath a wall with 2 BR’s. Make technical moves up the wall until beneath a groove with 2PR. Awkward moves gain a rest in the groove then powerful moves lead out left (BR) and up into the hole in the roof (BR). (Beware of spider's and prickly rock - a T-shirt helps!) Stretch out of the hole to the tree branch and swing wildly out on it (preferably beating your chest at the same time!). Lower off the tree and last BR in the roof - there are in-situ krabs on the top bits of gear to facilitate stripping. FA Nick Hancock 1995

Bee Careful E2 5b #
50ft Start as for Grooverider. Rather than climbing the eponymous groove feature, clip a bolt out R then climb the wall direct (Friend #4), passing another bolt, to the final peg of Grooverider. Traverse R to the belay/lower off of Croix de Guerrre. FA Simon Blagdon and Matt Niel (both led) 1999

The Winged Avenger E4 6b 50ft #
50ft The staple-bolt protected line to the R of Croix de Guerre features some eliminate climbing. At this grade the arete to the right is not used. FA Dick Underwood 1997

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