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SOUTH DEVON AND DARTMOOR
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Guidebooks
South Devon and Dartmoor Author Nick White Publisher Cordee (A supplement is now available, a lot of which is copied directly from the following supplement and the javu Dartmoor bouldering guide.
South Devon and Dartmoor Supplement Author: Dave Henderson 2000 Out of print but much of the information is now incorporated into this page.
A selection of the best routes in the area is also covered by South West Climbs (Pat Littlejohn/Diadem)
Inland Limestone | Dartmoor | Torbay | South Hams | Cove Quarry | Ladram Bay
Inland Limestone
Chudleigh South Face - details of all routes. Also see below.
Hazard Quarry - details from the South Devon and Dartmoor Supplement.
Chudleigh South Face
Ossuary E7 6c * #
A tricky and worthwhile route taking the blank-looking wall between Sarcophagus and Into the Groove. Start a couple of metres left of Sarcophagus. Climb the shiny slab to a roof. Place crucial gear (Peanut 2, RP2) then climb the wall above via undercuts on the right. Lower off, or finish up Concerto. FA Dave Henderson 25 October 2009 (belayed by Jerome Taylor)
Chudleigh North Face
Rope of Sand HVS 4c #
Climb the groove to the right of Tropic of Capricorn untill nearly in the overhanging corner. Traverse left on good holds (steep) and climb a slightly overhanging groove to the top (care with rock required) FA R Warke, P Warke. June 2006Singapore F5+ (HVS) #
A bolted route. Climb the gently overhanging wall to the right of Long John. FA Robbie Warke 2006Gun Street Girl E3 5c #
Climb the overhang to the right of the notch, poor gear then the broken wall to the top FA Robbie Warke 2006Black Spring F6C+ (E4) * #
Climb the overhanging wall right of Tropic of Capricorn via a hard sequence of moves above a bolt, finish direct. Good route, feels a long way above the bolt on the crux, miss out the double caving rig bolts right of the crux. (Now the Miller collection is almost set in stone!!!) FA Robbie Warke 2006 (top roped by others, led onsight)
Dartmoor
Haytor Quarry
Swell Tor Quarry
Dewerstone
Lustleigh Cleave
Westcott Rocks
Irish Man's Wall
Great Mis Tor
Greator RocksLuckey Tor
Leedon Tor
King's Tor
Foggintor Quarry
Leather Tor
Chinkwell Tor
Hound Tor
Great Links Tor
Swell Tor Quarry
The Nick of Time E5/6 6b **, Simon Young's (soloed after top rope inspection) route in Swell Tor Quarry, has had a couple of repeats. Initially graded E6 6c, the second ascentionist, Simon Blagdon (soloed following top roping), found a more amenable sequence and reckoned E5 6a (Plymouth grading!). A third ascent (soloed after abseil inspection) by Dave Henderson has suggested a technical grade of 6b, with the adjectival grade being bottom end E6/ top end E5 (/soft touch E4/hard E1!). We'll wait and see what happens when someone from out of the area makes an onsight repeat to find out what it really is!
* The obvious slab on the right as you walk into the quarry. Identified by a bore-hole strike and recorded as a jest as April Fool in Nick White's South Devon and Dartmoor guide.
King's Tor
(near Foggintor/Swell Tor Quarries)Stonechat Wall E2 5b #
30ft A delightful little route found on the steep wall facing Vixen Tor. Climb the wall with a steep start and slopey top out! FA Dave Henderson 2000The arete to the right provides another nice little route at about HS, and the obvious corner to the left is a fine Diff.
Foggintor Quarry
Bank Holiday Hooker E2 6a #
40ft Opposite Saturday Night Finger, on the E side of the quarry is a particularly prominent promontory of rock. Start an obvious orange scar and climb the ramp on the bottom left side of the wall, staying just right of the arete. This is the free version the above. Climb the wall R of the arete to a borehole and essential RP’s above. Traverse R (crux) then finish up the finger crack above. FA Martin Perry ‘98
Leather Tor
Scottish Highlands HVS 5a * #
40ft From the start of Dies Irae climb up leftwards to gain the start of the obvious diagonal overlap. Follow this into the main central groove. Climb the groove until a diagonal break leads leftwards across the top of the slab to an easy finish. FA Andy Grieve, Richard Hudson 4.10.03Give Me Five E3 5c ** #
Good gear, good rock, good route! 35ft Start from a boulder below the steep finger crack just left of the clean central slab. Difficult moves lead to a small sloping ledge and awkward rest. Climb the crack then rock right up onto the slab. Follow the continuation rounded flakes to the top. FA Andy Grieve (unseconded) 4.10.03Leaving Town E3/4 6a ** #
A bold line through the steep slab and overhang to the L of Dies Irae – take some RP’s and a small cam (#0). 30ft Start on the L side of the slab, beneath a bulging arete. Boulder up to the overhang (Good Wire/Cam) using a crack on the L for protection. Rock over onto the steep slab above using a side-pull then climb the centre of this to the top. FA Joey Getler, Simon Newman and Rob Cook 13.9.98Heel Today, Gone Tomorrow E4 6a/b #
A direct line through the overlap L of in the centre of the slab L of Dies Irae. 35ft Start up the middle of the slab. Hard and awkward moves lead through the overlap onto the slab above. Climb the centre of this to the top. FA Mike Pearce (unseconded) 17.10.99 (led after top rope practice)
Hound Tor
Never Trust a Monkey E5/6 6c 25ft #
Gain the flake on Hung Like a Baboon from the back of the roof!! A footjam is the secret! Sling placed on the Hung Like a Baboon flake on the lead. FA Caedmon Mullin 5/03Avarice E3 5c
30ft The wall left of Hydraulic Arete. With gear in the crack on the left and small friends on the right, make tricky moves up and onto the sloping shelf. Contine direct above to another ledgey thing. Finish direct over the final overhang. Variation: The lower crux can be made slightly easier by stretching to gain the sloping shlef from the crack on the left. FA Ben Rowe, Caedmon Mullin 5/03
Chinkwell Tor
Cobleighs Cracks HVS 5b
60` Go direct up the crack just right of the start of Widecombe wall to the wide break then tackle the short hanging (green) crack just to the left to finish on the right up the remainder of The Fair.
FA Jon Wilson and Jason Maddick 9.7.03
Greator Rocks
According to the SD+D this impressive looking Tor is “sadly, on closer inspection,… rather disappointing”. In Autumn/Winter 99 Dave Fergusson popped over and added a few routes, thus enticing others. Within a matter of weeks the Tor has revealed itself as having a very fine, although rather limited, selection of routes for the lower grade climber. And a trip can easily be combined with Hound Tor, in which case there‘s plenty for a good day out.
Most of the easier routes here easier routes have been claimed by various parties over the years and it is likely that first ascents below will be disputed!
The Tor is comprised of 2 main “lumps” of rock. On the South side of the Western Lump (i.e. the lump closest to Hound Tor):
Manali Groove VS 4c
35ft About 1/3 way along from the Col between the two lumps is a vegetated groove. FA Unknown
(Wrong Town), Wrong Planet (3 days late) E2 6a
20ft An extended boulder problem with serious prang potential. Near the E end of the W lump is an obvious clean arete (this is up and R of the previous route). This can be identified by a prominent large jug. Climb the arete with the tricksome manoeuvres to get onto and off the jug. FA Dave Fergusson 14.11.99 (soloed after shunting)On the Eastern Lump:
Sexual Misadventures With Fromage Frais Severe 4a
40ft L-u-r-verly. On the W end of the S face of the E lump (i.e. the other side of the hill to Hound Tor; if stood facing the crag it’s on the L end of the R lump) is juggy wall above a good landing. (This is just to the R of a holy tree about 20ft up the crag). Climb the L hand side to the top – the crux is a boulder problem start above a good landing, after which it eases off. FA UnkownLonely Fist of Fury E1 5b #
40ft Hmmm, nice name. Start 10ft R of Sexual… at the base of a groove. An initial tricky section leads to a grassy ledge. Finish with less difficulty up the arete above. FA Mike Pearce, H.Shandy 21.11.99 (onsight solo)Blind London Eye E2 5c #
35ft 30ft right of Sexual Misadventures is an arete, bounding the left side of a bay (on the right side is the slab of Tools You Can Trust). Climb this! FA Mike Pearce, Dave Henderson 2000
The wall to the right of Blind London Eye provides a tricky boulder problem start and easier climbing above – Trouser Snake V3 6a/b (FA Dave Henderson Feb 2000)Tools You Can Trust E1 5a *
40ft A very worthwhile but essentially unprotected slab. About 20 yards R of Sexual… is an alcove. The Rhand side of this presents a fine, narrow slab with a flake at about 10ft. Climb to the flake then the slab above on surprisingly reasonable crystals and edges. Easier, though turfy territory remains above. FA Dave Fergusson 7.11.99 (onsight solo)Dominatrix HS 4b
40ft Not easily confused with the famous Kilnsey route! To the R of Tools You Can Trust is a slabby wall with a crack on the R. Start up the crack then climb flakes Lwards to finish. FA Rob Cook, Dave “Large” Parry 21.11.99 Variation VS 4c. At 2/3 height is a gorse bush. Start as for the original then when level with this climb the slab to the L on chicken heads/crystals to finish just R of the next route.Jugular V Diff
25ft A fine, steep route on good holds. On the eastern end of the same lump is a steep wall with two obvious slanting veins. Climb the R hand of these. FA Unknown
Blind London Eye E3
The end of of the prow on the bit of rock between Lonely Fist of Fury and Tools You Can Trust. FA Mike Pearce, Dave Henderson 2000 A direct start goes up the wall to the right at an interesting E2 6b - Trouser Snake essentially a boulder problem with funny landing! FA Dave Henderson 2000
Haytor - Lowman
Posidrive E4 5c #
A worthwhile, bold route up the wall left of Screw. A bold and committing start leads to gear (small Friends) and less difficult climbing to the top. A couple of mats would take the sting out of the start. FA Martin Perry, Dave Henderson Summer 2009
Haytor Quarry
Kaolin E6 6b
40ft Start from a grassy ledge on the R. Step up then L onto the steep slap at a thin horizontal break (crucial gear). Fingery moves lead up the thin seam above to gain the slanting half-height break. Make some bold moves to clip a peg up and L . A long stretch gains a thin break and one more reach leads to an easier top-out. FA Dave Henderson Autumn/Winter 1999.Koala E4/5 35ft # To the left of Kaolin is a crack, and left again is an unappealing wall with a bulge. Climb this with a small Friend. FA Simon Young 2000.
Lord of The Ho Garden. VS 4c
Start 2 meters left of Kaolin in the crack up the middle of the wall. When you reach the half height break move left, along a small rail then mantel onto a ledge then finish up by trending right to the top along the crack that rises right. (the obvious line of weakness) FA Ben-Bravington Sim & James Latus 08/11/07Ho Garden Direct. E3 6a
Start as for Lord of The Ho Garden then when you get to half height where the break goes right then go straight up the blank wall. Bad holds hard crux bad gear + a potential ground fall FA James Latus 07/05/08Straight No Chaser, the left arete of the Sandman Wall, has had a load of repeats. The grade seems to be settling at about V6/7. Probably the most popular of Dartmoor's harder problems. Most/all? repeats have used an improved sequence - the original followed the arete more directly.
Lustleigh Cleave
Harton Chest | The Nutcrackers
Harton Chest
(referred to as Raven's Tor in the Nick White Guide)The Pork Chop Route E7 6c ** #
This is the obvious challenge of the blank central slab. The climbing is very thin, precarious and unprotected (apart from the bouldering mats opiled up beneath!) 45ft Start to the left of the buttress. Step onto a boulder then move up the wall to a break (as for The Hog’s Back). Traverse this rightwards until beneath the centre of the slab, as far right as you can go on the break (this point is directly above the start of Hung for the Slaughter). Make a committing step up onto a smear then climb crystals to gain the deep break. Traverse left along this then up the flake above. Awaits a direct finish…which will be hard! FA Simon Young '98 (solo after top roping)Hung For the Slaughter V5 6b
A boulder problem through the overhang beneath the the main slab (Pork Chop Route) followed by a slopey traverse left along the break to gain the arete of The Hog's Back. FA Traditional!Direct start to The Hog’s Back V5 6b/c
Straight up the arete beneath the Original. So far done with a mat/cheating block to start. The tall won't need this and a super hard problem will eventually go from holds in the roof....The Hog’s Back E5 6a ***
One of the classic hard routes of the Moor. Relatively "easy" climbing but scary and dangerous. The route can be led (small Friends in the break, then large Friends and wire protects the finish) although a few of it's ascents have been soloed. Probably worth leading if going for the onsight as the top is well protected. 45ft The rounded left arete of the buttress. Start on a block at the base of the gully to the left. Step up right to the break then traverse right to gain the arete. FA Chris Nicholson, Iain Peters 30/4/86 (with abseil rope close to hand)Pig Headed E6 6a/b * #
A dangerous route! Large Friends (#4 or prefably bigger) are useful for the deep break. 45ft Climb the slab to the left of The Hog’s Back to gain a deep break. Climb directly up the wall above on phenocrysts with bad (or should that be good!) fall potential. FA Simon Young ‘98Blodwyn Oldspot E5 6a *
A lovely but short line. 30ft 20 feet left of The Hog’s Back is a buttress with a narrow, clean front face. This route climbs the front face (using the left arete) and is pretty gnarly, especially if for the short (in which case it’s probably 6b). FA Ben Rowe (top roped first) Winter 1998. Repeated by M Crocker who upgraded it.About 20 yards to the left of the main crag is a small bay (this is just left of the previous route). The right hand wall is home to an E1 5c up the obvious crack in the slab/wall:
Feldspar Sky E1 5c
30ft A boulder problem route that you wouldn’t want to fall from. It takes the short central arete at the back of the bay (i.e R of the JaVu boulder) initially on the right then on the left to gain a large tree route. Finish up the easy corner to the right. FA Martin Crocker 11.10.98 solo...javu E7 6c **
A thin and precarious solo with some good injury potential and a fall bigger than the route. 15ft In the centre of the bay is a large boulder with an obvious steep blank face. This route climbs the hanging slab above and left of this. From the base of the gully step right on to the slab then climb direct to the top. FA Dave Henderson 11.10.98 (solo after Top Roping) Note: the route has also been repeated with a side belayer and mat, probably reducing the grade..About 50 yards down the valley-side from JaVu is a short buttress with a narrow slabby front face, an arete and steeper left wall:
Big Bad Wolf E5 6a **
25ft The unprotected left arete is climbed on it’s left side. A mat takes the sting out of it; a few mats and spotters make it a highball boulder problem. Graded for a mat free ascent. FA Simon Young solo after inspection ‘99Rumbles in the Jungles E4/5 5c/6a
30ft The right hand side of the Big Bad Wolf arete provides a technically easier but more dangerous route. FA James "Tog" Tippins, Jason Maddick (both solo after top rope) June 2002The following route is located on a small buttress further up the valley from javu. Basically head down hill just as you get onto the open heath.
Boyz in the wood E2 5b #
20` The obvious arete stepping in from the left. A good cam can be placed from the ground although falling from the last couple moves may result in a boulder scraping. 1st ascent Tog and Jase. 1st June 2002.
The Nutcrackers Area
From The Nutcrackers (i.e. where Bamboozled is) walk down the valley and to the left for about 50 yards to another outcrop. On the other side of this (i.e. the side facing the bottom of the valley) is a wall with a groove left of centre. The groove provides the line of the following route:
Lev E6 6b***
50ft The arete to the right of Bamboozled. A superb route that awaits an onsight ascent. 50ft From the base of the gully on the right make a technical and committing traverse leftwards to gain the rounded arete. The right side of this leads to a deep break at mid height. Place your first gear! The easier but still dangerous arete above leads, on it’s left side, to a rounded finish. FA Dave Henderson, Steve Seale (Headpoint) 1.9.99Sloping Beauty E4 5c #
The right side of the arete left of Split Pinnacle. FA Rob Lisney 14.11.00Walnut Arete HVS 5a
The unprotected arete up and right of Lev is on the left hand side. FA Dave Henderson, Dave Ferguson (solo) Mid 1990'sCrystal Maze E5 6b #
An unprotected route up the the steep right hand side of the same arete. FA Rob Lisney 14.11.00Flying Alligators E4/5 6a
20 ft Hard to find, especially now it's overgrown. Have a walk around beyond the Nutcarckers and look for a 20 ft high wall with no gear! FA Simon Young '99From the bottom of Lev/Bamboozled walk down the valley and to the left for about 50 yards and another buttress is found. On the other side of this (i.e. the side facing the bottom of the valley) is a wall with a groove left of centre. The groove provides the line of the following route:
Kev ? 6c/7a #
The route has been left without an adjectival grade as the hard bit is of boulder problem length. However, a fall would would without doubt have "route" consequences as the landing is a bit poor! E7 30 ft Step off the boulder at the base of the groove and follow it to some quite tricky moves on slopers to gain the sloping ramp above. Finish easily above. FA Dave Henderson (solo with helmet (!) after top rope) 18 June 2002A line on the right hand side of the buttress has been climbed at about E1 I think (Dave Ferguson onsight solo 2002).
The whole area is littered with boulders and lots of potential for bouldering. Of particular note is a superb isolated boulder 60 yards (at a guess) down below Kev - the has some excellent little problems.
Westcott Rocks
NOTE: THIS CRAG IS NOW BANNED.
This rarely visited venue has seen some, though limited, activity. Dave Henderson has made the second ascent of Nick White's "soloed with hanging rope" Wild Palms E5, after cleaning and inspection on a shunt. The grade is confirmed at solid E5 without the hanging rope.
Palm Doff E4 6b #
The wall to the left of Wild Palms. Technially a bit harder than Wild Palms but with a more friendly landing zone. FA Dave Henderson (solo after abseil) Summer 2000.
Dewerstone
Slapping Flapping Faffing Father E1 5a
Up the hill and right from Bruised Heels is a quarry. On the right-hand of the right wall, (just left of the arete) is a rusty coloured wall with a tree at the top. Climb this, with gear low down, until a reach right gains a hold on the arete. Finish up this and through the tree above. FA Lance Colmer 24.2.2001The following route is found in the Window Pane area (i.e. the butress up to the left of the approach path before you get to Agag's Slab).
Moss Wall E6? 6b/c #
A hard route up the narrow mossy wall between Window Pane and Tower Crack. At a guess probably between E6 depending on how many mats and spotters you have although could be harder without mats. 30 ft. The mossy wall between Window Pane and Tower Crack. Either start up the crack of Windowpane and climb straight up where the Windowpane goes left or start further right on some nasty sharp holds, to join up with the other line. FA Nic Dill May 2006 Soloed with 1 mat (more would have been nicer), after top rope practice.The following line "supercedes and dramatically improves Globe and Laurel making it a continuous line without deviations all over the place."
Marine E2 5c #
120ft Start in the shallow cave left of Climbers Club Ordinary and climb direct to the roof above the traverse of that route. Climb over this direct and continue up the banana shaped cracks above to a step right. Instead of going right as for the parent route climb thin cracks steeply up and left until it is possible to step right and finish at the last belay of Route B. Walk off. This will probably need a little cleaning but is in fact a very good route. The lower section over the roof had been done before but above that it was unclimbed when we did it. FA P O'Sullivan, Ken Hosie September 1986
Leedon Tor
Dartmoor Roamer HVS 5b 25`
Takes the wall and bulge around the arete to the left of Amid Devionian Alps. FA Jason Maddick Solo.Amid Devonia Alps VS
20ft Climbs the face overlooking the road. FA Paul Twomey (solo) 1996.
Luckey Tor
Tough Luckey E3 6a ** #
Well protected and fun. Follow Eagle's Nest until below the upper overhang. A steep and fingery traverse leads out left to a fine position on the front of the undercut buttress. Climb strenuously direct up breaks to the top. FA Andy Grieve, Richard Hudson 9/08/2007
Irish Man's Wall
Full guide
Leprechaun E2 5c*
25ft The wall to the right of Non-metallic silver. Taking a direct line up and over the overlap via a hard starting move and tricky finish. FA Jason (The Ghost) Maddick and, James (Tog) Tippins Summer 2001Caffreys Severe 4b
20ft To the right of Meaders mutterings around the arete is a short vertical wall, climb this direct. FA Jason (The Ghost) Maddick and, James (Tog) Tippins summer 2001Between Cafferys and White Spider Directissma, is a small bay the following two routes are found here.
Murphys V DIFF 4a
20ft The groove line starting on a brilliant jug. FA Jason (The Ghost) Maddick and, James (Tog) Tippins Summer 2001Guiness V DIFF 4b
20ft The line of stuck on jugs just to the left of Murphys. These routes were climbed summer 2001, First ascents Jason (The Ghost) Maddick, and James (Tog) Tippins. Summer 2001
Great Links Tor
On the South face of the main (tallest block) there is a smooth wall right of the trig. point, the next route climbs this
The Plague E1 5a *
30ft Start below the highest point of the wall below a small but obvious flake at half height. This is reached easily and gives gear (very small friends). An unnerving stretch reaches the largest break (large friends only) and a pumpy finish FA Dan Arkle 4/9/04 onsightAntsy E1 5b
25ft Start 10 right of The Plague, boulder up rightwards to a sloping shelf and follow easily to the top. No protection and a poor route FA Dan Arkle 4/9/04 Solo after abseil inspectionBogey Diff
20ft The grotty chimney crack FA Andy Wylie and Dan Arkle 4/9/04 Both soloedThe four existing climbs are on the steep wall to the right. The NE face of the same block gives four new routes, the first two start in a trench behind a block
Acrobat HS 4b
20ft Start below the left side of the wall. A tricky first move leads to easier pleasant climbing above FA Dan Arkle and Andy Wylie 4/9/04 onsightTight Rope E1 5a
30ft Step off the RH side of the block behind to reach the only positive hold of the route-its small so look carefully. Precarious balancey climbing leads straight up FA Dan Arkle 4/9/04 onsightThe Weakest Link E2 5c
35ft Start 10' right of the trench below a small sidepull 10' up. Boulder up to this, move up, step left before finishing up a tricky shallow drainage groove FA Dan Arkle 27/9/03 onsightLink it E3 5c
35ft Start below a RW facing scoop at half height. Hard moves and a mantel lead to the scoop. The final bulge taken direct is desperate FA Dan Arkle 4/9/04 onsight50' East is a shorter wall N facing wall. At its RH arete there is an undercut flake
You'll always be E1 5b *
20ft Start using the flake and finish direct FA Dan Arkle 27/9/03Special to me VD
20ft The crack to the right is easy after the first move FA Alys Mendus 27/9/03On the other side of this block are some good easy boulder problems. 'Baby, please stay'**. 5a Goes up past the detached loose block
Great Mis Tor
Mismatch Hard Severe 4b
20ft 25yrds left of Misunderstood is a short cleanish wall, climb this direct to a grassy finish. FA Jason (The Ghost) Maddick and, James (Tog) TippinsBetween the route Misunderstood and the outcrop containing Mister stickweed is another outcrop, the following two routes climb the far face of this, above a small pool:
Misdemeanor V Diff 4a
25ft The crack line trending left near the top. FA Jason (The Ghost) Maddick and, James (Tog) Tippins Summer 2001Mis You Moor Very Severe 4c
25ft The line directly above the pool via a hard starting move, easily escapable. Routes climbed summer 2001 First ascents Jason (The Ghost) Maddick and, James (Tog) Tippins Summer 2001
Fur Tor
The following route, the most isolated in the West Country, is found on the large boulder approx 200m west of the main lump is an obvious high slab/wall with an undercut start.
Splendid Isolation E3 5b
Climb the slab, gained from the right. A direct start is possible at V4/6bish. FA James Clapham 200?(solo) repeated by Jason MAddick, grade confirmed.
Torbay Area
Babbacome | Sanctuary Wall | Long Quarry Point | Ansteys | Black Head | Hope's Nose | Daddyhole Area | Meadfoot Quarry | London Bridge | Durl Head | BerryHeadQuarry | Coastguard Cliff | Cradle Rock
Babbacombe Crag
This much neglected crag has revealed a fine new route on the Torbryanesque wall between Fakes Last Krapp and Krapps Last Fake. Some pegs had been placed some-time before the first ascent - these are now a bit rusty!
Fakes Last Pith E5/6 6b 100ft (*) # A very worthwhile route. Technical and with a fairly un-obvious, though reasonably protected crux followed by a bold bit! Start up the slabby rock (as for Krapps Last Fake) to a niche. Pull onto the steep wall on the right (Poorish Thread Runner) and follow a leftward trending line to an old peg. Move up and left to a ledge then move up above to a couple of TR's. Good sneaky wire to the right in a pocket. Move up and right to an easing in angle then on boldly to a PR. Pull round onto easier rock. 15 ft on is a PR, and way back are tree belays. FA Dave Henderson Summer 2000
Martin Crocker's Paranormale given E6+ 6b (I believe this is often rationalized to E7!) by Martin - The pegs on the lower groove are now badly rusted and there is not really anything to back them up with; they are also going to be hard to replace. The two pegs that protect the crux are Stainless and in reasonably good nick (these could be backed up with RP's).
The Sanctuary Wall
Dead Rabbit E7 6b #
60ft Probably not worth sticking your neck out for an onsight, this route is essentially a variation start to Gus Honeybun. Bold, snappy and dangerous! Start just left of Morpheus and make a funny move on a weak hold to gain a big flakey type thing. Arrange gear (Skyhook and RP - best to tie down Skyhook) then make moves up and left, then directly up to gain a peg beneath a roof. Pull up to the right of this and on to another peg, then finish direct above (the route joins Gus Honeybun beneath the peg under the roof). FA Dave Henderson (top roped first) Summer 2000In-situ gear updates (June 2009):
Gus Honeybun Pegs in poor state. Assuming they rip the route is likely to be worthy of E7.
False Gods All pegs apart from the first are back-upable. Possibly worth E5 unless you are particularly fit/confident on the steep ground.
Call to Arms Not reliant on in-situ gear. Pumpy E4.
Caribbean Blue E6 June 2009. Fair at the grade for an onsight. 1st peg - poor but climbing not too hard. 2nd peg - looks a bit dubious but back upable with small Freind horizontally out left. 3rd peg back upable with Rock 4 to the left and big sling to the right. All situ gear to the top from there looks in good condition (2009); all situ tat replaced 2009.
Free the Spirit Situ gear in need of replacing. Probably still climbable at E6 in it's current state but could do with in-situ tat being replaced.
Flaming Drambuie Pegs on first section in poor condition. Current grade not known - assume it to be E6 at a guess?
Long Quarry Point
Blue Planet E6 6b 7b+
50ft The line of staples starting on the leftside (facing in) of blowhole pinnacle (abseil approach - not recommended in high seas). Follow pockets and cracks on lip of cave to its apex and then take the still tricky wall above. FA Ken Palmer Summer 2001 (also deep water soloed by Ken - XS 6b S2? go at a good high tide))Christine E7 6c 8a
50ft The line to the right of Blue Planet. Hard climbing and good conditions are required. This means getting to the cave fairly early in the morning when the seas not too rough! FA Ken Palmer June (ish) 2002 Also deep water soloed -Devon's hardest!In-situ gear updates (June 2009):
Black Ice In-situ gear all appears to be in acceptable condition. Fine for the E3 grade.
Up the Styx (Fr7b) has been fully re-equipped with bolts - now a sport route.
Shadow Styx Fr 7c *** A fully bolted sport route. Climb Shadow Beast until moves lead up left to join and finish up Up the Styx. FA Ken PalmerJune 2009Details of Deep Water Soloing in the Long Quarry Point Area.
Anstey's Cove
The following routes have had their bolts replaced with Stainless Staples (2000):
The Cider Soak 8a, Tuppence 8a+/b, A Fishermans Tale 8b, Poppy 8b+, Oozy in My Pocket 7b+, Cocytus E3
Leather Whip Mick Fr8a? #
With any luck this is the last link-up on the wall! Start up Empire Direct to the first break of Empire. Traverse right (reversing Not Just Empire) then follow Avenged until it's possible to finish up the Avenged Direct Finish, passing an old bolt stub. FA D. Henderson May 2010Not Just Empire Fr7c
A very worthwhile link-up of Just Revenge and Empire of the Sun featuring perfectly sustained climbing. Not too difficult to strip the quickdraws but watch out for the slope/bushes when removing the bottom draw. 80ft Climbing Just Revenge to the break below the 3rd bolt, which is traversed left passing a new bolt to join Empire at the shake out beneath it's crux (no need to clip the bolt). Finsh up Empire. FA D.Henderson June 2009Helium Fr7c #
Start up arete of Might and Main to 1st bolt, left to 2nd bolt on Just Revenge, then new bolt in to crux of Empire, don't bother with 1st Empire bolt. At 3rd bolt on Empire (60cm sling) head left on obvious breaks and pockets (optional friend 0, but you won't hit anything and it blocks a good hold) to clip to last bolt on Uzi, left along shelf to do the final tricky bit of Heathen Man to its belay. Stripping the quickdraws could be tricky! "Sounds far more complicated than it is! rope runs nicely as described. It's great!" FA Jon Wilson 1.7.09Avenged Direct Finish Fr7c+ #
A better, independent finish to Avenged. Possibly high in the grade? Instead of spanning out left to the finish of Empire of the Sun, finish directly above the final bolt, passing an old bolt stub. Lower off as for the original. FA D. Henderson 15/07/09Tuppence Ha'penny Fr8b
An extension to Tuppence, up flowstone to the leftCyberdog Fr8a+
Start up Tuppence to the first break (after 2nd bolt) then move finish as for Postman Pat (i.e. traverse right to A Fisherman's Tale and finish up it!). FA Ken Palmer September 2001 (Repeated by John Stark 2010)Brian Fr 8c #
A mammoth line from the far right to the top left of the Ferocity Wall - starting up Poppy, into Fisherman's briefly then reversing Postman Pat into Tuppence. It then follows Tuppence to a jug at the top before moving left to climb to tufa/flowstone stuff to finish. Needless to say it's a bugger to get yer quickdraws out! FA Ken Palmer Summer 2003Boy George Fr7c #
The wild prow right of Blazing Apostles FA Ken Palmer 2003
Black Head
A guide to the traditional routes at this newly developed area near Anstey's.
A guide to the Deep Water soloing is also available.
Hope's Nose Crag - Thanks to Simon Colley for the details.
A small but perfectly formed steep limestone outcrop on the sunny South side of Hopes Nose (GR 947634). The rock is generaly well featured and sound providing good quality climbing - there is some loose rock on the top outs.
All the routes so far have been ascended in a trad style - onsight and ground up cleaning en route - apart from Mashed on Mescal which had some tottering blocks removed by abseil first.
There are currently three metal stake belays just behind the cliff top path.
At the moment there is still potential for a few more new routes from VS to E4+ (?)
Approach: It takes about five minutes to reach the crag (walking downhill !) via the main fishermans path to Hopes Nose (Park on the road at GR945635) take the right fork where-ever the path splits. The most distinctive feature is the capping square cut overhang at the top of the steepest part of the crag (yet to be climbed !) Routes are described left to right (looking at the crag).
Roots Manouevre E1 6a #
25ft On the left side of the wall left of the big roof is a small cave/arch at the base of crag. Route starts at the left side and goes direct up a vague crack. No gear to past the halfway ledge and crux within the first 15 feet. FA Jason Maddick + Jon Wilson. 23rd June 2004Mad World E2 5c #
25ft Takes a line through the overhang, where "Happy birthday mr p" goes right to the arete, this goes direct over the roof, good cams in the break in the roof. FA James "tog" Tippins + Jason Maddick. 4th Jan 2004Happy Birthday Mr Porcupine E2 5c+ *
A steep boulder problem start. 30ft Takes the obvious hanging crackline direct through the undercuts right of the capping overhang. FA Simon Colley & Ben Bradford July '02Death of the Belay Bunny VS 4b #
25ft The steep wide corner crack right of Happy Birthday Mr P. FA Simon Colley & Kelly Dyer July '02Schmoke and a Pancake E1/2 5b * #
20ft Start as for Death of the BB. then traverse right below the overhangs on undercuts until its possible to pull onto the top slab, cruise to the top. FA Dave Henderson and Simon Colley July '02Skate-park Virgin HVS 5a #
30ft Takes the orange hanging corner right of Schmoke.... Make a stiff pull off the ground to gain the corner, follow this to the top. FA Simon Colley and Dan Wyatt July '02Right of Skate-park Virgin is a dusty niche capped with overhanging choss ! right again is an orange coloured vertical wall about 40ft in hight with a large stuck on (at the moment!) flake in the middle.
Mashed on Mescal HVS 4c #
40ft ** Romps up the left side of the orange wall on sumptuous jugs until your required to neck it and traverse right to a dirty finish. FA Simon Colley and Dave Henderson July '02The right hand side of the orange wall forms a fin of rock with a steep grassy ramp behind it.
Skunk Oddessy VS 4c #
30ft * Skins a direct line up the left side of the fin finishing up a short groove with a hallucenogenic thread ?. FA Daniel Wyatt and Simon Colley Aug'02Right of the fin and grassy ramp lies the contorted wonderwall ...
Daddyhole Main Cliff
The following route is a Deep Water solo at the far left hand end of the crag:
Sirens E2 5c
Start as for Stingray, but rather than making the move up right to the crack, it moves up left to follow a line of holds up the wall finishing along Pinnacle Traverse or back down Aqua Marina. FA Deep Water Solo Caedman Mullin August 2002Schools Out For The Summer E1 5b #
80` The arete left of "Tobacco road" taken on the right side to a tricky move over a bulge to get onto the slab. FA Jon Wilson + Jason Maddick. 21 July 2004.Dark Material XS 6a S0 #
40ft Link Troy Tempest with Stingray. Climbs the wall just right of the orange runnel starting from Troy Tempest travese. FA Robbie Warke onsight solo all routes 24/5/10Daddyhole Area - new routes from the South Devon and Dartmoor supplement (i.e. everything since the Nick White guide)
Telegraph Hole
At the end of the Pinnacle Traverse Continuation (where it meets the zawn before the end of The Watchtower):
Winklepicker HVS 5a S1
Climb the middle of the wall on crisp edges past two breaks (moving right at the last break reduces the grade 4c) FA Robbie Warke 24/05/2010 (onsight solo) (probably done before)In the zawn below the end of Pinnacle Traverse:
Powder Blue XS 5c S1
35ft Climb the obvious steep layback crack. FA Robbie Warke 24/05/2010 (onsight solo) ( probably done before)
London Bridge
Long Dong Village XS 6a/b Fr7b S0 **
120ft This pumpy, safe and excellent route takes a fairly low traverse around the bridge, basically linking the initial traverse into Jehovakill to the bottom of the Athiest groove. Down climb to the left (East) of the bridge and traverse, above the high water line rightwards, moving up to the pumpy crux section beneath the arch. Continue on beneath the groove of Athiest and around the west wall to finish. Also goes right to left - probably a little easier. FA Dave Henderson (os solo) July 2001Full Deep water solo guide - includes all recent developments
Meadfoot Quarry
Ken's Route E3 5b *
100ftSustained and very bold climbing, directly up the centre of the face. Start on small ledges about 3ft right of the start of Demeter. Make technical, bold moves up and slightly left (crucial small friend and wire runner). Move up and right more easily then directly and boldly up to the peg on the traverse of Median. Climb straight up, past another peg, then make hard moves left to the crux of Demeter. After this, climb the blunt arete and groove left of that route, to an iron spike on a ledge. Scramble off left. FA Brian Hannon, Rik Meek, Martin Dunning 05/05/02Further new route details on Meadfoot found here
Churston
Standing on Shoulders of Giants HVS 4c *
50ft Climbs the RH side of the Slipshod slab, start between two trees and take a direct route up the slab. Protection is provided by poor micro nuts. FA Paul Lintott, Alison Banwell 16.12.01
Berry Head Quarry
See Deep Water solo guide for other recent developments.
The following 2 routes are found in Bay 1 - only sketchy details are available.
Butt Munch E1 5a #
This nicely named route climbs the crack in the red wall/slab just inside the gate. FA Dave Ferguson Summer 1997 (solo)Big Fun VS #
"The gravitationally challenged phat phlake at the far side from the gate". FA Dave Ferguson Summer 1997 (solo)Big Fish in a Little Sea E6/7 6b **35ft
Paul Twomey's hardest contribution to the area has proved quite popular with 5 ascents to date. Paul headpointed the route after carefully calculated rehearsal and then Mike Weekes made the second ascent ground up, taking one fall onto the poor thread before the crux. Dave Henderson made the 3rd ascent, choosing to solo the route after top rope practice and then Dave Ferguson made the fourth ascent in the same style. In ’99 Ken Palmer made the 5th ascent, managing to find a previously un-noticed runner in a borehole. This reduced the route from the its original grade of E7. (All ascents prior to this had not used this runner). The route is found on the 35-foot wall in the centre of the Quarry, below the grassy ramp. Climb the wall direct to a poor TR, reach L left to a small ledge, make precarious moves into the shallow groove and the crux follows: a long, stretch to pockets (TR). FA Paul Twomey, Mark Reeves 23.8.95 (top rope practice)The Distant Dream of a Delinquent Teen E4 6a
35` About 10` right of "Big fish in a little sea" is a vague groove with a couple of bore strikes at half height. Climb direct to the bore strikes and reach right to clip a peg (only gear) Crux is before the peg. Gain the ledge at two thirds height and make some crimpy moves past two small pockets to the top. FA Jason Maddick + James Clapham. (Both led) 26th Aug 2004Finding Nemo V3 5c / E1 5c
20` About 15` right of "The distant dream of a delinquent teen" is a nice grey wall with an obvious sloper at head height. Climb direct up here. At 15` is a nice bore hole, jumping off from here is a good boulder problem, climbing the extra 5`to the top a bit scarier. FA Jason Maddick + James Clapham. 5th Aug 2004 (climbed previously but not recorded)Clean Cut E4 5c 140ft #
Follow Yellow Rurties to its PR. Move left then follow cracks up to the roof. Surmount this then climb the bold groove and wall to the top. FA Ian Parnell, Clark Alston 1995Porpoise E5 6b 140ft #
An intimidating lead. Follow Equipoise to the ring peg. Step L on side pulls and layback up loose blocks. Traverse up Rwards to a PR on Equipoise and follow this to a good foot ledge 10ft below the second to last PR. Step L to a poor knife blade and move up on crimps and sidepulls (PR on R) to gain the base of the obvious groove. Exposed and scary moves lead up this to a welcome finish. FA Paul Twomey, Mike Pearce 1996Equipoise has had several repeats. A grade of E4 5c is now reckoned to be more accurate and its 3 star quality has been confirmed. Take a peg/screwdriver to slot in a borehole.
Back in Town E2 5b 50ft #
Start at the beginning of Quality Street. Climb up to a steep flake, which leads to a cave with a pronounced lip. Steep pulls on big holds to join slanting crack of Milky Bar Kid to finish. FA Ian Parnell 14.5.95 (solo after practice)
Coastguard Cliffs
Approach: From the descent path walk leftwards (looking out) past 'Hidden Grove Buttress', passing a long 15ft wall into the next cove (crystal steps), the route starts at a small alcove at the back.
Hope Street HS 4b * #
50ft Good protection and great holds. It follows a vague crackline up the centre of the red tufa wall past a thread runner (insitu) bearing rightwards to finish at the highest point. Descent rightwards (looking out). FA Paul Lintott 16/09/01Eastern Shelf
FRB HVS 5a
50' Start a few feet right of Flying Fifteen's start, where a thin crackline leads to Flying Fifteens PR and on to the top. Follow the crack. FA Steve Scadden and Len Carr 11/7/96Zipper E1 4c,5b 160ft #
1. 80ft Start at the bottom of Thursday Corner. Up a few feet, then RW's around rib to PR. Slant up RWs to top edge of smooth slab. Down L edge of slab. Skirt the bottom of the slab above a dark red triangular shaped area. Up RWs to the edge of the crystaline wall at the slightly OHing nose on Little Fine Hands.
2. 80ft Up Little Fine Hands to bottom edge of grey slab. Traverse RWs, crossing Gugu Wack to the ledges of Flying Fifteen. Continue RWs to FF PR. Slant down Rws to finish.
FA Steve Scadden and Len Carr 25/4/96Redwall Area
Admiral of the Line E1 5b * #
80ft Start below the crack system between Izitso and Raw Umber. Climb to wide crack at R end of ledge at 60'. Cross Izitso and up back wall sstraight to the top. FA Steve Scadden and Allan Hatton 24/11/04Lewtenant Fosscake HVS 5a #
120ft. The discontinuous crackline between Captain's Corner and Izitso. Start a few feet right of Captain's Corner and follow the crackline to the big ledge. Finish up the top part of Admiral of the Line. FA Steve Scadden and Len Carr 27/11/2005Uparoundup VS 4c #
170ft Start at left end of Redwall area. 1) 90ft 4c Up to halfway ledge of Blood. Follow ledge system rightwards to Red Crack. Up crack to overlap and then right to Ruddy Corner. Belay at ledge near top of Ruddy corner. 2) 40ft 4c From top of Captain Scarlet arete down a little and continue rightwards beneath overhang to Izitso's ledge. 3) 40ft 4c Top part of Izitso. FA Steve Scadden, Allan Hatton, Len Carr 24/8/01 and 1/9/01Jellyfish VS 4c
80ft Between Archery and Ruddigore. Climb the faint pillar to the traverse ledge of ruddigore go straight to the top keeping right of big bore hole.Top not as loose as it looks. First Recorded Ascent AUG 2006 Allan Hatton Denise Pridham.
Berry Head - Old Redoubt and Rainbow Bridge Area
See Deep Water solo guide for other recent developments.
Cradle Rock Area
The following two routes are found on the large rock almost detached from the mainland, at the entrance to the Zawn right (facing inland) of Cradle Rock (see pg 218 SD&D). Both are deep water solos and were climbed on-sight.
Bacon Arete E1 5b
Climbs the obvious steep arete on its righthand side for about 20' before swinging around and finishing up the cracks on the lefthand side of the arete. FA Caedman MullinBacon Crack E9 7b (VS 4c if you're tall!!(-;)
The obvious crack line in the wall left of the arete. FA Tim..Both of the routes were accessed by boat for the first ascents. Aspirant repeat ascentionists without boats should reverse part 2 of the Magical Mystery Tour from Cradle Rock. .
Wouf Woute E5/6 6b, 6a (*) 120ft #
If you like very steep routes well endowed with gear and large holds then this is for you! To the left of the start to The Pinch is a cave; start on the right of this, beneath a hanging groove (just left of where the rock changes in nature) 1) 6b 50ft Make a strenuous start on a wobbly (but well keyed-in) hold into a crack to the left, then a few more tricky moves to gain better jugs and a more friendly position. Move up to a hanging wall beneath another very steep bit (semi rest!) then carry on out to a good flat spike on the lip of the cave. Climb above here, trending slightly left, to gain a good ledge (brown rock). 2) 6a 70ft Finish up the superb second pitch of The Pinch. FA Dave Henderson 10/5/2001 (belayed by Carrie Hill)
Durl Head
FlangePan E2 5b #
80` Start as for "lap it up", move around the arete onto the right wall and continue direct and over a small roof to belay as for "foaming at the mouth". Walk off right. FA Jon Wilson + Jason Maddick. 19th June 2004.Pidgin English E1 5b 70ft #
This fun little route takes the obvious crack just right of A Drop In The Ocean 1) 40ft 5b Follow the crack to its end and then traverse left with interest to a stance above the roof. 2) 30ft Climb diagonally left to the top with care, as for ADITO. Stake belay up and left and nut belay approx. 80ft up the slope (pre-fixed rope advisable). F.A. Clark Alston, Jon Wilson (alt. leads) 28/5/03Wheat Crunchies E5/6 6a 40 ft (*) #
A rather steep route up the obvious overhang to the left of Saracen. The line is the obvious crack. The gear is alright but a tad strenuous to place. FA Dave Henderson 2000 (ground up/onsight)Pigeon Post HVS 4c #
70` Takes the right wall and chimney of the small zawn 35` left of "wings of a dove". In situ rope a good idea to belay on! FA Jon Wilson + Jason Maddick. 19th June 2004
South Hams
Bantham Hand | Prawle Point | Gammon Head | Sharp Tor
Bantham Hand
Wedding Band VS 4c #
Esoteric in the extreme. Start at the base of the landward arete pinching and laybacking up the quartz band (a number of essential and solid nuts can be placed along the way). Get on top of the quartz band and follow up and left (beware of some very loose flakes and flora). After a substantial runout (potential ground-fall) a sling can be placed around a solid but stubby spike. From here top out leftward on easy ground. Belay and abseil as for other routes on the Hand. FA James Henney and Graham Thomas "Although crumbly and plastered with seagull excrement, the Hand is in a great location and I thought it was worth a go. Not a 'classic route', but a real adventure. I'd be curious to know if any others have tried new things on it..."
Prawle Point
Prawle Crack HVS 4c
"Climbs the obvious crack up the centre of the steep wall above the arch on the west side of the crag. Fortunately it is not nearly as hard as first appearances would suggest. Scramble easily down to a ledge above the huge boulder in the sea, from here ascend easily rightwards until an awkward move back left gains the base of the crack, this is then followed steeply to the top." FA Robin Thomas and Jason Maddick."Following our success on this line we moved to the opposite (East) side of the arch where I managed a repeat of 'The Drowning Witch' and can confirm the 'dodgyness' described in the guide but suspect a grade of pumpy E3 5b may be more appropriate. We are fairly certain that the correct line was followed as there is only one pair of rising cracklines, however, these trend Right to Left instead of Left to Right as described in the book - otherwise the route followed the description."
Wisdom E1 5b
Well protected and interesting. A direct line through the roof above the belay. Attach the belayer as for 'The Drowning Witch" then boldly layback the crack in the roof above. A combination of large jugs and bridging then lead to the hanging corner above, regroup and swing easily leftwards to finish. FA Robin Thomas and Jason Maddick."Although not wishing to be over generous we both felt that all of the above routes are worthy of at least one esoteric star each." ~ Robin Thomas
Kestrel's Arete Difficult
Climbs the left arete of the first and largest buttress on the right, above the diagonal path leading up to the coastguard look-out. A steep start leads to interesting lichen and climbing. FA Nick Taylor 28/03/97
Gammon Head
To the left of "Mental Block" is a short steep wall split in the centre by a rightward leaning double crackline.
The Esoteric Apprentice VS 4c
60ft. Follows the crackline steeply to a ledge. Move leftwards across the impending wall above then back right, easily up a short corner to ledges and belay. (F.A. Nick Taylor, Lesley Burgess 29.3.97 on-sight)Gentle Arete E1 5a *
60ft. To the right is a fine arete, undercut at the base and easing in angle with a step near the top. Start on the left side, moving into a groove on the right side at about 20ft. Climb the interesting arete above gently with minimal protection. Thread belay well back on ledges. (F.A. Nick Taylor 29.3.97 on-sight)Razor-back E1 5a
65ft. Right again is an obvious groove-line which becomes more shallow towards the top.Climb this mainly by delicate bridging, past at least a couple of trust-worthy gear placements to a move rightwards onto a ledge. Regain composure, then finish directly up the continuation of the cornerline. Delicate, bold and exhilarating climbing up the next best line on the cliff after "Mental Block".
(F.A. Nick Taylor 27.7.97 on-sight)Sow Seance VD
150ft. Climb the ramp-like arete that forms the right hand side of the "Mental Block" bay, in its entirety,on the edge overlooking the sea. Reached by an easy traverse from "Mental Block" or low-tide boulder hopping.
(F.A. Nick Taylor 27.7.97 on-sight solo)
Sharp Tor
We're in Love VS 4c #
Start up the slope from Four Strong Winds, just right of the clean-cut overhang. 70ft Gain and climb the obvious v-groove then easier ground trending rightwards to a finishing corner/groove.FA Nick Taylor (onsight solo) 27/05/00
Cove Quarry
Page 316 in South Devon and Dartmoor Guide) Access to this crag is NOT PERMITTED and routes are only detailed here in the interest of completeness!
Statement of Young E6 6b ***140ft # Climb loosely up a groove to gain the 1st peg of The Rink of Disaster and continue above to a ledge. Make hard moves out right (crux), then move up to reach a crack which is followed past a peg to gain the second peg of The Rink….A move out left is made to arrive at a pocket and bolt. Climb above the bolt for 30 ft to 2 knife blade pegs, then a traverse up and right leads to the final nut slot of The Rink…, up which you finish. FA Simon Young (crux moves shunted prior to lead) January 1998.
Above and Beyond the Kinetic Barrier E5 5c ***30ft …The “kinetic barrier” in this case being some small trees/shrubs growing out of the slab. Climbs the slab above the diagonal ramp R of the “Rink…” slab. Ascend the slab as far as a large sloping pocket, move R and continue directly up the slab to the top. FA Simon Young Autumn 1999 (solo)
Spot the Ball E8 6c *** # To the right of The Rink… is a big slab with some bolts in. “An incredibly sustained and bold line up an almost featureless slab. Long run-outs combined with tenuous moves on minuscule holds make this a very exacting lead. Most of the bolts are 8mm self-drilled Petzls. 1. 120ft Climb with some difficulty to a bolt at 20ft. Traverse Rwards and climb this to a 2nd bolt. Move L until a good hold is gained and climb directly up on spaced holds past 2 more bolts until a step R gains a another bolt. Hard moves up and L lead to a further bolt from where a rising Rwards traverse gains a hold – RP5 in slot. Step out L and make a delicate move up onto a protruding, submerged ball (bolt above - hard to clip). Further baffling moves lead up to the final bolt. Finish direct by sustained hard climbing.” FA Simon Young 27.11.99
The following batch of routes are found on a black slab on the far R of the quarry – it should be easy enough to find as it has a few bolts in. Development has been along the theme of a “North Wales Slate Slab”. The routes have been sportingly bolted and have good fall potential. The area above the slab is unstable, making abseil inspection or topping out problematical and dangerous – consequently the routes have all been equipped with Lower-off points.
Hernia E4 6a **50ft # Start at the extreme L corner of the slab. Step out R onto the slab and make thin moves up and R to an obvious pocket. Attain a standing position in the pocket then step R to a similar pocket. Move up and R past a weird protruding bollard to better holds and a bolt. Finish up Sapling Groove. Lower off. FA Simon Young Autumn ‘99
Sapling Groove E3 5c *50ft # Start by a tree 10ft down from Hernia. Climb the slab direct to a bolt. Move R and climb the obvious slanting groove until it is possible to step left (bolt). Finish more easily past this to a lower off. FA Simon Young Autumn ’99
Sapling Slab E3 5c **50ft # Start 6 ft R of Sapling Groove. Climb the slab to a line of square cut edges leading rightwards (peg). Enter the crack above and follow it to where it peters out. Move R then finish direct to a bolt lower off. FA Liam Grant Autumn ‘99
Sapling Crack E4 6a ***50ft # Start below the obvious slanting crack. Climb to the base of the crack and climb it, passing a peg, until it is possible to step L to some thin holds leading to a lower off. FA Liam Grant Autumn ‘99 Stung Beaver E7 6b ***55ft # Start to the R of Sapling Crack. Climb to a weakness in the overlap and pull through into a very shallow groove. Make hard moves up to a better hold. Marginally easier moves lead to double bolts. Move L then make a big step up. A very thin traverse L brings a good holds and easier climbing leads to a bolt Lower off. FA Simon Young Autumn ‘99
Tickled Pink E4 6a *50ft # 10 ft R of Stung Beaver, climb to a bolt just over the overlap. Continue direct to a second bolt then make more hard moves to a lower off. FA Simon Young Autumn ‘99
The Beer Mat Traverse E6 6b ***60ft # Start as for Tickled Pink. From the first bolt traverse L (below a slight depression) until hard moves up and L lead to Stung Beaver. A couple of thin moves gain the double bolts and the same finish as Stung Beaver. FA Simon Young Autumn ‘99
Ladram Bay
Big Picket Rock
Revenge of the Razor Fish V1 (E1 ish) 5b 90ft
An alternative to the orginal final pitch of Big Picket (which has fallen down!). From the cave/chimney (where the original moves right) move out left. Traverse to a crack which is climbed until a grovel right gains the summit. Take long slings to reduce drag. All gear in-situ (bongs, angles and re-bar!!) although Snargs 1 and 2 may also be of use (but not essential!). FA Bruce Woodley, James Pyne 27.8.98 (originally with bit of aid) - a bit of cheating is still possible if you want to bag the summit at a more amenable grade).
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