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South Devon and Dartmoor

Possibly the best selling point of this region is the enormous variety to be found within a fairly small area. You could be climbing steep bolted limestone in the morning, followed by sandstone sea stacks in the afternoon and then rounded off with some bouldering on one of the many tors on Dartmoor... and all this would be within 20 miles of each other.

Another selling point is the quality of the climbing... and then there's the uncrowded nature of the crags... and there's the best sea level traversing in the country... you can't lose!

Where to stay
Tourism is big business in the region and as a result there's a good range of campsites and other types of accomodation. It may be worth booking somewhere if you're visiting in the summer, but having said that I expect you'll find something. Dartmoor is a good wild camping venue, but make sure you leave no mess, don't stay in the same place long, make sure you're away from the roads and not on land enclosed by walls etc etc. Pubs and other good eateries are numerous.

When to visit
The weather is, on the whole, suitable for climbing throughout the year - it is not unheard of to be climbing in shorts and a t-shirt in mid winter. Torbay is often a wise choice in the winter when the Moor can be a little cold (i.e. perfect bouldering conditions). If it is raining there are plenty of alternative activities, and if you're into walking this is a particualrly good one with miles of coastal footpath (The South Hams area is probably the nicest) and remote moorlland hikes on Dartmoor.

Guidebooks
Definitive South Devon and Dartmoor by Nick White (Cordee).
Selected climbs South West Climbs by Pat Littlejohn (Diadem Books), West Country Rock (Rockfax) - available to buy online from the javu shop.

There are also a number of online guides available here at javu including the Dartmoor Bouldering Guide and The Devon Deep Water Soloing Guide.

New Route Information
South Devon and Dartmoor

javu articles
Hard Granite An overview of the harder routes and boulder problems on Dartmoor
2000 Developments A round-up of SW activity during 2000!