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Inland Limestone

Chudleigh

Torbryan Quarry

Hazard Quarry - details from the South Devon and Dartmoor Supplement.

Chudleigh

South Face

There is also a full guide , updates on in-situ gear and a full up-to-date guide on the nearby Black Crag

Dream On/ Drip Dry Combo E5 6b #
Climb the right hand side of the arete, as for Dream On, but stay on the right side of the arete. Lurch over the roof and join Dripdry at its second thread. FA Alexis Perry 05/06/10

Dripdry Indirect E4 6a
Start up Pheonix on Fire but traverse left (pass the old ring peg if it's still there!) to join Dripdry. Worthwhile, pumpy and avoid the polished crack start of Dripdry. FA Dave Henderson 2010 ish

Fluffy Handcuffs E3 5c
Although most if not all of the route has been previously climbed as variations to Combat/Combined Ops this is worth doing and deserves being written up in it's own right. Climb the left side of the Combined Ops arete in its entirety. Shares a couple of moves with Combat, but mostly independent and really quite good. F(recorded)A Alexis Perry 30/11/2012

Ossuary E7 6c *
A tricky and worthwhile route taking the blank-looking wall between Sarcophagus and Into the Groove. The seriousness depends on whether or not the gear holds... Start a couple of metres left of Sarcophagus. Climb the shiny slab to a roof. Place crucial small gear (Peanut 2, RP2) then climb the wall above via undercuts on the right. Lower off, or finish up Concerto. FA Dave Henderson 25 October 2009 (belayed by Jerome Taylor) Second ascent by Alexis Perry after a hold broke. Alexis Perry has made what is probably the second ascent of Into the Groove in it's bolt-free guise (it was originally climbed with a bolt runner before being led bolt-free by Ken Palmer). Given the poor skyhook runner, tough move and likely ground fall the grade could well be E7.

Hot Ice has lost a hold/block (it used to form a pocket at the top of the bottom arete). Although it probably doesn't change the overal grade it now feels a bit more committing. Although traditionally a rather bold solo it has now turned into more of a highball boulder problem with the use of mats... some still opt to lead the route and there is a small wire half way up.

Bat Country E3 5c #
Worthwhile - the independent climbing while brief is quite good. Start between Tantalus and Scar below a diagonal crack. Climb direct to a vertical borehole strike, arrange protection then pull up to sidepull on left (poor micros), surmount the bulge above to gain another borehole. Join and finish up Tantalus before the mescaline kicks in. FA Justin Timms 30/09/12 (Headpointed after aborted onsight attempt with Nick Baron)

The Red Baron E6 6b #
Will you ace it or be sent spiralling in flames? An eliminate line tackling the fine headwall between the final crack of Stalactite and the ramp of Great Western. Start under calcite flutings directly under the headwall (as for Pig's Ear?). Climb to a break at 10' then continue boldly above to the main fault-line. Empty your rack into this then step up to the base of the headwall. Step up using a good undercut to a square pinch above, then levitate your way to glory! A direct line with no side-runners at the given grade. FA Justin Timms 23/02/13 (Headpointed after aborted onsight attempt with Nick Baron)

North Face

Rope of Sand HVS 4c #
Climb the groove to the right of Tropic of Capricorn untill nearly in the overhanging corner. Traverse left on good holds (steep) and climb a slightly overhanging groove to the top (care with rock required) FA R Warke, P Warke. June 2006

Singapore F5+ (HVS) #
A bolted route. Climb the gently overhanging wall to the right of Long John. FA Robbie Warke 2006

Gun Street Girl E3 5c #
Climb the overhang to the right of the notch, poor gear then the broken wall to the top FA Robbie Warke 2006

Black Spring F6C+ (E4) * #
Climb the overhanging wall right of Tropic of Capricorn via a hard sequence of moves above a bolt, finish direct. Good route, feels a long way above the bolt on the crux, miss out the double caving rig bolts right of the crux. (Now the Miller collection is almost set in stone!!!) FA Robbie Warke 2006 (top roped by others, led onsight)

 

Torbryan Quarry

Note: Please DO NOT PARK IN THE TURNING CIRCLE JUST DOWN THE ROAD FROM THE CRAG (i.e. opposite the junction). If there is no space to park safely on the road then use the car park - this is found on the left up the hill, towards Ipplepen, and only a 5 minute walk from the crag.

The following are link-ups of the existing routes.

Make Hay 7a * – Follow Threadbare LH to the top of the groove and join Thread Flintstone at the ledge. From here you can either finish as for TF or continue rightwards to finish up Barney Rubble.

Left Bare Stone 7a+/b Follow Thread bare left hadn to the final bolt, then make a few hard moves right to the finish of Thread Flintstone.

Vicious White Lie 7b+/c ** – Climbs the rising traverse line across the left side of the wall. Start up Mayday to the 2nd bolt, then move into the crux of little white lie to clip its 3rd and 4th bolts. From here traverse left along a thin rail to tackle the crux of Vicious Delicious. Finish at the Pebbles lower off.

Red Thunder 8a ** – Start up Barney Rubble to its 2nd bolt then trend left to traverse through Thread Flinstone's crux (clipping its 2nd bolt) and straight into the crux of Threadbare. Follow this route to the resting jugs and then break left into and up Mayday to finish. An easier finish to the next route.

Bob 8a+ *** - The full 35meter girdle traverse that takes in the crux of most the routes. The line flows brilliantly and the rope runs fine, giving a long, sustained outing. Start up Barney Rubble to its 2nd bolt then trend left to traverse through Thread Flintstone's crux (clipping its 2nd bolt) and straight into the crux of Threadbare. Reverse the start of Threadbare LH into Mayday's 2nd bolt (do not down climb to the shelf to rest!). Then move into the crux of little white lie to clip its 3rd and 4th bolts. From here traverse left along a thin rail to tackle the crux of Vicious Delicious. Finish at the Pebbles lower off.

 

Hazard Quarry

Note: It seems that climbers are no longer welcome in the quarry.

In addition to the following new routes other news from Hazard is that Garth E5 6a Fr.7b has received it's first solo ascent. Also Ken Palmer and Matt Cooper have repeated Therapeutic Structures E6 6c Fr.7c+

Apparition E3 5c **
60ft This fine, technical route climbs the line of staple BR's to the left of Boltin' Hazard. FA Dick Underwood 1997

Swings and Roundabouts E4 6b/c #
60ft A steep (horizontal) boulder problem start through the roof R of Banzai leads, via a flake, to a bolt on the R. Follow a Rward trending crack to a corner at the end of Banzai's traverse. TR. Move up through the roof, via a BR and long reach, to gain good holds. Pull around onto the slab and then finish rightwards to a belay/lower off shared with Samourai and Banzai. FA Jason Privett 1997.

Tarzan E5 6b **
60ft Despite some dusty bits this route is one of the most memorable around thanks to an awesome jump/lunge for a hanging tree branch. Start up Groove Rider then traverse the ledge leftwards beneath a wall with 2 BR's. Make technical moves up the wall until beneath a groove with 2PR. Awkward moves gain a rest in the groove then powerful moves lead out left (BR) and up into the hole in the roof (BR). (Beware of spider's and prickly rock - a T-shirt helps!) Stretch out of the hole to the tree branch and swing wildly out on it (preferably beating your chest at the same time!). Lower off the tree and last BR in the roof - there are in-situ krabs on the top bits of gear to facilitate stripping. FA Nick Hancock 1995

Bee Careful E2 5b #
50ft Start as for Grooverider. Rather than climbing the eponymous groove feature, clip a bolt out R then climb the wall direct (Friend #4), passing another bolt, to the final peg of Grooverider. Traverse R to the belay/lower off of Croix de Guerrre. FA Simon Blagdon and Matt Niel (both led) 1999

The Winged Avenger E4 6b 50ft #
50ft The staple-bolt protected line to the R of Croix de Guerre features some eliminate climbing. At this grade the arete to the right is not used. FA Dick Underwood 1997

There are several new, bolt protected routes on the right and far left of the quarry - details unknown.


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This file last modified
27 September, 2013.

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