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Long Quarry Point
Berry Head Quarry
This much neglected crag has revealed a fine new route on the Torbryanesque wall between Fakes Last Krapp and Krapps Last Fake. Some pegs had been placed some-time before the first ascent - these are now a bit rusty!
Fakes Last Pith E6 6b 100ft (*) #
A very worthwhile route. Technical and with a fairly un-obvious, though reasonably protected crux followed by a bold bit! Start up the slabby rock (as for Krapps Last Fake) to a niche. Pull onto the steep wall on the right (Poorish Thread Runner) and follow a leftward trending line to an old peg. Move up and left to a ledge then move up above to a couple of TR's. Good sneaky wire to the right in a pocket. Move up and right to an easing in angle then on boldly to a PR. Pull round onto easier rock. 15 ft on is a PR, and way back are tree belays. FA Dave Henderson Summer 2000
Martin Crocker's Paranormale given E6+ 6b (I believe this is often rationalized to E7!) by Martin - The pegs on the lower groove are now badly rusted and there is not really anything to back them up with; they are also going to be hard to replace. The two pegs that protect the crux are Stainless and in reasonably good nick (these could be backed up with RP's).
Long Quarry Point
Song of the Sirens VS 5a 24m #
Start at the old bolt and chain belay. Step up the earth bank on the left and climb a shallow depression in the face above. Pull onto easier angled rock and move up to The Odyssey traverse line. Continue up a leftwards rising crackline, which leads to a shallow, vertical scoop. Bridge up to, and then pass, a slight overlap, to reach 'crozzly' rock. Avoid the broken rock above that by traversing leftwards to join the top-out of Ulysses P2. FA Simon Wooster 2010
The Poseiden Adventure E1 5a/b 37m #
A lengthy pitch, with continuous interest. Start about 5m down the vegetated terrace from the PB of The Minor Tour, below a slight scoop with a downward-pointing overlap on the left. Belay on a thread up to the left. Climb the scoop to gain a standing position on a dubious triangular block. Peg above. Move rightwards, using a suspect ochre foothold, to reach a good incut handhold. Climb delicately upwards, to reach a standing position on a tiny flowstone ledge. Step left to more featured flowstone and climb directly up the absorbing slab to reach the traverse line of The Odyssey at a good hold. Teeter rightwards along the crux traverse of that pitch. At a good footledge, step up and slightly leftwards on ochreous rock to a small overlap. Continue upwards and slightly rightwards, past a finger hole, to join P2 of The Odyssey, peg. Climb the satisfying runnel of that pitch and negotiate the vegetated top out. FA Simon Wooster 2013
Blue Planet E6 6b Fr7b+ ***
50ft The line of staples starting on the leftside (facing in) of blowhole pinnacle (abseil approach - not recommended in high seas). Follow pockets and cracks on lip of cave to its apex and then take the still tricky wall above. FA Ken Palmer Summer 2001 (also deep water soloed by Ken - XS 6b S1? go at a good high tide))
Christine E7 6c Fr8a ***
50ft The line to the right of Blue Planet. Hard climbing and good conditions are required. This means getting to the cave fairly early in the morning when the seas not too rough! FA Ken Palmer June (ish) 2002 Also deep water soloed -Devon's hardest!
Mustard Custard E6 6c Fr7c+ ***
A very technical, high quality route to the right of Shadow Beast. FA Jon Wilson
In-situ gear updates (June 2009):
Black Ice In-situ gear all appears to be in acceptable condition. Fine for the E3 grade.
Up the Styx (Fr7b) has been fully re-equipped with bolts - now a sport route.
Shadow Styx Fr 7c *** A fully bolted sport route. Climb Shadow Beast until moves lead up left to join and finish up Up the Styx. FA Ken PalmerJune 2009
Details of Deep Water Soloing in the Long Quarry Point Area.
The Sanctuary Wall
Dead Rabbit E7 6b #
60ft Probably not worth sticking your neck out for an onsight, this route is essentially a variation start to Gus Honeybun. Bold, snappy and dangerous! Start just left of Morpheus and make a funny move on a weak hold to gain a big flakey type thing. Arrange gear (Skyhook and RP - best to tie down Skyhook) then make moves up and left, then directly up to gain a peg beneath a roof. Pull up to the right of this and on to another peg, then finish direct above (the route joins Gus Honeybun beneath the peg under the roof). FA Dave Henderson (top roped first) Summer 2000
In-situ gear updates (June 2009):
Gus Honeybun Pegs in poor state. Assuming they rip the route is likely to be worthy of E7.
False Gods All pegs apart from the first are back-upable. Possibly worth E5 unless you are particularly fit/confident on the steep ground.
Call to Arms Not reliant on in-situ gear. Pumpy E4.
Caribbean Blue E6 June 2009. Fair at the grade for an onsight. 1st peg - poor but climbing not too hard. 2nd peg - looks a bit dubious but back upable with small Freind horizontally out left. 3rd peg back upable with Rock 4 to the left and big sling to the right. All situ gear to the top from there looks in good condition (2009); all situ tat replaced 2009.
Free the Spirit Situ gear in need of replacing. Probably still climbable at E6 in it's current state but could do with in-situ tat being replaced.
Flaming Drambuie Pegs on first section in poor condition. Current grade not known - assume it to be E6 at a guess?
The following routes have had their bolts replaced with Stainless Staples (2000):
The Cider Soak 8a, Tuppence 8b, A Fishermans Tale 8b, Poppy 8b+, Oozy in My Pocket 7b+, Cocytus E3
Due to concerns over the strength of the old style staple bolts there is now an additional bolt below the crux of Just Revenged/Avenged.
Containing no new climbing is Leather Whip Mick Fr8a. Start up Empire Direct to the first break of Empire. Traverse right (reversing Not Just Empire) then follow Avenged until it's possible to finish up the Avenged Direct Finish, passing an old bolt stub. FA Dave Henderson May 2010
Not Just Empire Fr7c
A very worthwhile link-up of Just Revenge and Empire of the Sun featuring perfectly sustained climbing and even some new moves. Not too difficult to strip the quickdraws but watch out for the slope/bushes when removing the bottom draw. 80ft Climbing Just Revenge to the break below the 3rd bolt, which is traversed left passing a new bolt to join Empire at the shake out beneath it's crux (no need to clip the bolt). Finsh up Empire. FA D.Henderson June 2009
Helium Fr7c #
Start up arete of Might and Main to 1st bolt, left to 2nd bolt on Just Revenge, then new bolt in to crux of Empire, don't bother with 1st Empire bolt. At 3rd bolt on Empire (60cm sling) head left on obvious breaks and pockets (optional friend 0, but you won't hit anything and it blocks a good hold) to clip to last bolt on Uzi, left along shelf to do the final tricky bit of Heathen Man to its belay. Stripping the quickdraws could be tricky! "Sounds far more complicated than it is! rope runs nicely as described. It's great!" FA Jon Wilson 1.7.09
Avenged Direct Finish Fr7c+ #
A better, harder and independent finish to Avenged - as Avenged is established at 7c+ this may be 8a? Instead of spanning out left to the finish of Empire of the Sun, finish directly above the final bolt, passing an old bolt stub. Lower off as for the original. FA Dave. Henderson 15/07/09
Tuppence Ha'penny Fr8b
An extension to Tuppence, up flowstone to the left
Start up Tuppence to the first break (after 2nd bolt) then move finish as for Postman Pat (i.e. traverse right to A Fisherman's Tale and finish up it!). FA Ken Palmer September 2001 (Repeated by John Stark 2010)
Brian Fr 8c/8c+ #
A mammoth line from the far right to the top left of the Ferocity Wall - starting up Poppy, into Fisherman's briefly then reversing Postman Pat into Tuppence. It then follows Tuppence to a jug at the top before moving left to climb to tufa/flowstone stuff to finish. Needless to say it's a bugger to get yer quickdraws out! FA Ken Palmer Summer 2003
Boy George Fr7c #
The wild prow right of Blazing Apostles FA Ken Palmer 2003
A guide to the traditional routes at this newly developed area near Anstey's.
A guide to the Deep Water soloing is also available.
Hope's Nose Crag
Thanks to Simon Colley for the details.
A small but perfectly formed steep limestone outcrop on the sunny South side of Hopes Nose (GR 947634). The rock is generaly well featured and sound providing good quality climbing - there is some loose rock on the top outs.
All the routes so far have been ascended in a trad style - onsight and ground up cleaning en route - apart from Mashed on Mescal which had some tottering blocks removed by abseil first.
There are currently three metal stake belays just behind the cliff top path.
At the moment there is still potential for a few more new routes from VS to E4+ (?)
Approach: It takes about five minutes to reach the crag (walking downhill !) via the main fishermans path to Hopes Nose (Park on the road at GR945635) take the right fork where-ever the path splits. The most distinctive feature is the capping square cut overhang at the top of the steepest part of the crag (yet to be climbed !) Routes are described left to right (looking at the crag).
Roots Manouevre E1 6a #
25ft A bouldering mat would be a wise precaution to cover over the blackthron! On the left side of the wall left of the big roof is a small cave/arch at the base of crag. Route starts at the left side and goes direct up a vague crack. No gear to past the halfway ledge and crux within the first 15 feet. FA Jason Maddick + Jon Wilson. 23rd June 2004
Mad World E1/2 5c
25ft Takes a line through the overhang, where "Happy birthday mr p" goes right to the arete, this goes direct over the roof, good cams in the break in the roof. FA James "tog" Tippins + Jason Maddick. 4th Jan 2004
Esperanza 9m E2 6a/b
Takes the striking left-to-right undercling reached by optional heinous bouldery inventions and – if you've got sensitive skin like mine – certain agony. Using a mono/ crimp gain a ragged jug over the bulge. Undercut explosively right to join Happy Birthday.... Move right on an undercut pocket to meet Belay Bunny.
FA: Martin Crocker (on sight), unseconded (3.5.09)
Happy Birthday Mr Porcupine E2 5c+ *
A steep boulder problem start. 30ft Takes the obvious hanging crackline direct through the undercuts right of the capping overhang. FA Simon Colley & Ben Bradford July '02
Death of the Belay Bunny VS 4b #
25ft The steep wide corner crack right of Happy Birthday Mr P. FA Simon Colley & Kelly Dyer July '02
Schmoke and a Pancake E1/2 5b * #
20ft Start as for Death of the BB. then traverse right below the overhangs on undercuts until its possible to pull onto the top slab, cruise to the top. FA Dave Henderson and Simon Colley July '02
Skate-park Virgin HVS 5a #
30ft Takes the orange hanging corner right of Schmoke.... Make a stiff pull off the ground to gain the corner, follow this to the top. FA Simon Colley and Dan Wyatt July '02
Right of Skate-park Virgin is a dusty niche capped with overhanging choss ! right again is an orange coloured vertical wall about 40ft in hight with a large stuck on (at the moment!) flake in the middle.
Mashed on Mescal HVS 4c #
40ft ** Romps up the left side of the orange wall on sumptuous jugs until your required to neck it and traverse right to a dirty finish. FA Simon Colley and Dave Henderson July '02
The right hand side of the orange wall forms a fin of rock with a steep grassy ramp behind it.
Skunk Oddessy VS 4c #
30ft * Skins a direct line up the left side of the fin finishing up a short groove with a hallucenogenic thread ?. FA Daniel Wyatt and Simon Colley Aug'02
Right of the fin and grassy ramp lies the contorted wonderwall ...
Ken's Route E3 5b *
100ft Sustained and very bold climbing, directly up the centre of the face. Start on small ledges about 3ft right of the start of Demeter. Make technical, bold moves up and slightly left (crucial small friend and wire runner). Move up and right more easily then directly and boldly up to the peg on the traverse of Median. Climb straight up, past another peg, then make hard moves left to the crux of Demeter. After this, climb the blunt arete and groove left of that route, to an iron spike on a ledge. Scramble off left. FA Brian Hannon, Rik Meek, Martin Dunning 05/05/02
Further new route details on Meadfoot found here
Daddyhole Main Cliff
The following route is a Deep Water solo at the far left hand end of the crag:
Sirens E2 5c
Start as for Stingray, but rather than making the move up right to the crack, it moves up left to follow a line of holds up the wall finishing along Pinnacle Traverse or back down Aqua Marina. FA Deep Water Solo Caedman Mullin August 2002
Schools Out For The Summer E1 5b #
80` The arete left of "Tobacco road" taken on the right side to a tricky move over a bulge to get onto the slab. FA Jon Wilson + Jason Maddick. 21 July 2004.
Dark Material XS 6a S0 #
40ft Link Troy Tempest with Stingray. Climbs the wall just right of the orange runnel starting from Troy Tempest travese. FA Robbie Warke onsight solo 24/5/10
Daddyhole Area - new routes from the South Devon and Dartmoor supplement (i.e. everything since the Nick White guide)
At the end of the Pinnacle Traverse Continuation (where it meets the zawn before the end of The Watchtower):
Winklepicker HVS 5a S1
Climb the middle of the wall on crisp edges past two breaks (moving right at the last break reduces the grade 4c) FA Robbie Warke 24/05/2010 (onsight solo) (probably done before)
In the zawn below the end of Pinnacle Traverse:
Powder Blue XS 5c S1
35ft Climb the obvious steep layback crack. FA Robbie Warke 24/05/2010 (onsight solo) ( probably done before)
Long Dong Village XS 6a/b Fr7b S0 **
120ft This pumpy, safe and excellent route takes a fairly low traverse around the bridge, basically linking the initial traverse into Jehovakill to the bottom of the Athiest groove. Down climb to the left (East) of the bridge and traverse, above the high water line rightwards, moving up to the pumpy crux section beneath the arch. Continue on beneath the groove of Athiest and around the west wall to finish. Also goes right to left - probably a little easier. FA Dave Henderson (os solo) July 2001
Frolics Fr.7a+ S0 **/*** #
An excellent route above good water. On the back of the landward section of London Bridge is a short wall of immaculate fused limestone. This traverses the wall above great water starting at the seaward arete. Climb along the obvious low line with feet at or just above HWM to a good jug below the roof. Sketch rightwards (crux) to a finish up the steep crack. FA Tom Rainbow, John McShea 17/07/10)
Fun Fr.6b S0
Climb along Frolics to the centre of the overhang (avoiding the chance to climb up early - slightly contrived). Climb through the overhang at its widest point on undercuts to a good finish. Would be exciting at low tide! FA Tom Rainbow, John McShea 17/07/10
Full Deep water solo guide - includes all recent developments
Standing on Shoulders of Giants HVS 4c *
50ft Climbs the RH side of the Slipshod slab, start between two trees and take a direct route up the slab. Protection is provided by poor micro nuts. FA Paul Lintott, Alison Banwell 16.12.01
The in-situ gear on Supercalorific has been replaced.
Berry Head Quarry
See Deep Water solo guide for other recent developments.
The following 2 routes are found in Bay 1 - only sketchy details are available.
Butt Munch E1 5a #
This nicely named route climbs the crack in the red wall/slab just inside the gate. FA Dave Ferguson Summer 1997 (solo)
Big Fun VS #
"The gravitationally challenged phat phlake at the far side from the gate". FA Dave Ferguson Summer 1997 (solo)
Big Fish in a Little Sea E6/7 6b **35ft
Paul Twomey's hardest contribution to the area has proved quite popular with 5 ascents to date. Paul headpointed the route after carefully calculated rehearsal and then Mike Weekes made the second ascent ground up, taking one fall onto the poor thread before the crux. Dave Henderson made the 3rd ascent, choosing to solo the route after top rope practice and then Dave Ferguson made the fourth ascent in the same style. In '99 Ken Palmer made the 5th ascent, managing to find a previously un-noticed runner in a borehole. This reduced the route from the its original grade of E7. (All ascents prior to this had not used this runner). The route is found on the 35-foot wall in the centre of the Quarry, below the grassy ramp. Climb the wall direct to a poor TR, reach L left to a small ledge, make precarious moves into the shallow groove and the crux follows: a long, stretch to pockets (TR). FA Paul Twomey, Mark Reeves 23.8.95 (top rope practice)
The Distant Dream of a Delinquent Teen E4 6a
35` About 10` right of "Big fish in a little sea" is a vague groove with a couple of bore strikes at half height. Climb direct to the bore strikes and reach right to clip a peg (only gear) Crux is before the peg. Gain the ledge at two thirds height and make some crimpy moves past two small pockets to the top. FA Jason Maddick + James Clapham. (Both led) 26th Aug 2004
Finding Nemo V3 5c / E1 5c
20` About 15` right of "The distant dream of a delinquent teen" is a nice grey wall with an obvious sloper at head height. Climb direct up here. At 15` is a nice bore hole, jumping off from here is a good boulder problem, climbing the extra 5`to the top a bit scarier. FA Jason Maddick + James Clapham. 5th Aug 2004 (climbed previously but not recorded)
Clean Cut E4 5c 140ft #
Follow Yellow Rurties to its PR. Move left then follow cracks up to the roof. Surmount this then climb the bold groove and wall to the top. FA Ian Parnell, Clark Alston 1995
Porpoise E5 6b 140ft #
An intimidating lead. Follow Equipoise to the ring peg. Step L on side pulls and layback up loose blocks. Traverse up Rwards to a PR on Equipoise and follow this to a good foot ledge 10ft below the second to last PR. Step L to a poor knife blade and move up on crimps and sidepulls (PR on R) to gain the base of the obvious groove. Exposed and scary moves lead up this to a welcome finish. FA Paul Twomey, Mike Pearce 1996
Equipoise has had several repeats (in the mid 90s!). A grade of E4 5c is now reckoned to be more accurate and its 3 star quality has been confirmed. Take a peg/screwdriver to slot in a borehole.
Back in Town E2 5b 50ft #
Start at the beginning of Quality Street. Climb up to a steep flake, which leads to a cave with a pronounced lip. Steep pulls on big holds to join slanting crack of Milky Bar Kid to finish. FA Ian Parnell 14.5.95 (solo after practice)
Approach: From the descent path walk leftwards (looking out) past 'Hidden Grove Buttress', passing a long 15ft wall into the next cove (crystal steps), the route starts at a small alcove at the back.
Hope Street HS 4b * #
50ft Good protection and great holds. It follows a vague crackline up the centre of the red tufa wall past a thread runner (insitu) bearing rightwards to finish at the highest point. Descent rightwards (looking out). FA Paul Lintott 16/09/01
FRB HVS 5a
50' Start a few feet right of Flying Fifteen's start, where a thin crackline leads to Flying Fifteens PR and on to the top. Follow the crack. FA Steve Scadden and Len Carr 11/7/96
Zipper E1 4c,5b 160ft #
1. 80ft Start at the bottom of Thursday Corner. Up a few feet, then RW's around rib to PR. Slant up RWs to top edge of smooth slab. Down L edge of slab. Skirt the bottom of the slab above a dark red triangular shaped area. Up RWs to the edge of the crystaline wall at the slightly OHing nose on Little Fine Hands.
2. 80ft Up Little Fine Hands to bottom edge of grey slab. Traverse RWs, crossing Gugu Wack to the ledges of Flying Fifteen. Continue RWs to FF PR. Slant down Rws to finish.
FA Steve Scadden and Len Carr 25/4/96
Admiral of the Line E1 5b * #
80ft Start below the crack system between Izitso and Raw Umber. Climb to wide crack at R end of ledge at 60'. Cross Izitso and up back wall sstraight to the top. FA Steve Scadden and Allan Hatton 24/11/04
Lewtenant Fosscake HVS 5a #
120ft. The discontinuous crackline between Captain's Corner and Izitso. Start a few feet right of Captain's Corner and follow the crackline to the big ledge. Finish up the top part of Admiral of the Line. FA Steve Scadden and Len Carr 27/11/2005
Uparoundup VS 4c #
170ft Start at left end of Redwall area. 1) 90ft 4c Up to halfway ledge of Blood. Follow ledge system rightwards to Red Crack. Up crack to overlap and then right to Ruddy Corner. Belay at ledge near top of Ruddy corner. 2) 40ft 4c From top of Captain Scarlet arete down a little and continue rightwards beneath overhang to Izitso's ledge. 3) 40ft 4c Top part of Izitso. FA Steve Scadden, Allan Hatton, Len Carr 24/8/01 and 1/9/01
Jellyfish VS 4c
80ft Between Archery and Ruddigore. Climb the faint pillar to the traverse ledge of ruddigore go straight to the top keeping right of big bore hole.Top not as loose as it looks. First Recorded Ascent AUG 2006 Allan Hatton, Denise Pridham.
Cro-magnum E8 6c *** #
The old aid route/project underneath the roof pitches of Caveman. From the belay at the end of pitch 1 of Caveman, traverse horizontally rightwards for 8m to a big niche. Swing round the corner into a smaller niche with in-situ thread. Make hard moves rightwards, under two very old pegs, to arrive at a semi-rest (another old peg up to the right). Make tricky moves 3m upwards into the red rock strata, then make the crux moves rightwards on small holds (a final old peg) to a large rail, swing along this to then rock over the lip onto the slab and move rightwards to the belay at the end of pitch 2 of Depth Charge. Finish as for Depth Charge FA Bob Hickish & Dave Pickford 10/Sep/2011
Killa Gorilla Fr7b S0 **
A fun, safe addition to the crag. Traverse through the Great Cave until a point just before the start of pitch 1 of Caveman, at the end of a slanting jug rail. Traverse a break out rightwards across the roof until it is eventually possible to move up on smaller holds to join the end of the first pitch of Caveman. Reverse off leftwards. FA Dave Henderson (onsight flash) 8/2005
See Deep Water solo guide for other recent developments.
Cradle Rock Area
The following two routes are found on the large rock almost detached from the mainland, at the entrance to the Zawn right (facing inland) of Cradle Rock (see pg 218 South Devon and Dartmoor guide. Both are deep water solos and were climbed on-sight.
Bacon Arete E1 5b
Climbs the obvious steep arete on its righthand side for about 20' before swinging around and finishing up the cracks on the lefthand side of the arete. FA Caedman Mullin
Bacon Crack E9 7b (VS 4c if you're tall!!(-;)
The obvious crack line in the wall left of the arete. FA Tim Rushton
Both of the routes were accessed by boat for the first ascents. Aspirant repeat ascentionists without boats should reverse part 2 of the Magical Mystery Tour from Cradle Rock.
Wouf Woute E5/6 6b, 6a (*) 120ft #
If you like very steep routes well endowed with gear and large holds then this is for you! To the left of the start to The Pinch is a cave; start on the right of this, beneath a hanging groove (just left of where the rock changes in nature) 1) 6b 50ft Make a strenuous start on a wobbly (but well keyed-in) hold into a crack to the left, then a few more tricky moves to gain better jugs and a more friendly position. Move up to a hanging wall beneath another very steep bit (semi rest!) then carry on out to a good flat spike on the lip of the cave. Climb above here, trending slightly left, to gain a good ledge (brown rock). 2) 6a 70ft Finish up the superb second pitch of The Pinch. FA Dave Henderson 10/5/2001 (belayed by Carrie Hill)
The Pinch Direct E4 5c, 6a 15m, 2 pitches. A superb and direct first pitch to the already great route The Pinch. This harder variation means there are two hard pitches making the route more consistent in grade, but more varied as the direct is a roof pitch. Start halfway between the Pinch original start and Wouf route, the hanging wall has a downward pointing triangle at its bottom. Pull into the obvious line of holds with good gear and urgency, to find good holds on the wall above. Continue directly to the belay of the Pinch P2 The pinch pitch 2. FA Justin Timms, Jon McShea
There has been a large rockfall, probably affecting Zeta/Sidewinder - take care.
Flange Pan E2 5b #
80` Start as for "lap it up", move around the arete onto the right wall and continue direct and over a small roof to belay as for "foaming at the mouth". Walk off right. FA Jon Wilson, Jason Maddick. 19th June 2004.
Pidgin English E1 5b 70ft #
This fun little route takes the obvious crack just right of A Drop In The Ocean 1) 40ft 5b Follow the crack to its end and then traverse left with interest to a stance above the roof. 2) 30ft Climb diagonally left to the top with care, as for ADITO. Stake belay up and left and nut belay approx. 80ft up the slope (pre-fixed rope advisable). F.A. Clark Alston, Jon Wilson (alt. leads) 28/5/03
Wheat Crunchies E5/6 6a 40 ft (*) #
A rather steep route up the obvious overhang to the left of Saracen. The line is the obvious crack. The gear is alright but a tad strenuous to place. FA Dave Henderson 2000 (ground up/onsight)
Pigeon Post HVS 4c #
70` Takes the right wall and chimney of the small zawn 35` left of "wings of a dove". In situ rope a good idea to belay on! FA Jon Wilson, Jason Maddick. 19th June 2004
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