HARD DARTMOOR BOULDERING
A few notes: This list may not be definitive - please send in details of any repeats or othe problems which may be missing.
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PROBLEM GRADE CRAG DESCRIPTION FIRST ASCENT REPEATS COMMENTS Land Spider V7 6b Bovey Woods Spideland in reverse with sitting start up left arete. Dave H 2008 Craig Williams May 2008 Another pump fest. Dot Green V8+ 6b/c Bovey Woods Link-up on Green Dot Traverse. Start sitting beneath left arete, reverse Green Dot Traverse then top out on right arete. Dave H 2008 None Very long with a fluffable finish. Sniffer Dog V7 6c Bovey Woods Left to right of break beneath Underdog. Dave H 2008 None Quite sharp and requires use of the abs. Buena Vista V9 6c Bovey Woods Left to right traverse on same block as Spiderland, with low start on left. Dave H 2008 None A bit awkward with a pumpy finish. Spiderland V7 6b Bovey Woods A mammoth traverse on an overhanging block up above The Long Wall at Shaptor.
Dave H 2007 A pump fest on mostly large but sharp holds. Finger Ripping Good V7 6b Bovey Woods Traverse along the crack on the low block just left of The back of beyond boulder.
Craig Williams , Dave H2008 Slightly sharp. Now with sit start from low on left to improve the problem. Calcaneium Crisis
V7 6c Bovey Woods The arete on the large block 300 yards left of Long wall
Jason "The Ghost" Maddick
Tom Rainbow, Jon Wilson, Dave Henderson Crimpy moves followed by a big slap to easier climbing above. Named after Jason's ankle breaking fall from an earlier attempt! Devon Sent
V10 Bovey Woods Gently overhanging, painful and very technical. Highball. Dave Henderson 04 None Very hard on the tips and pretty sequency. Originally given V9 but upgraded by first ascentionist to attract repeats! Nether Edge V7 Bovey Woods An excellent and high line. Take several mats! Jon Wilson 07 John McShea, Tom Rainbow, Richard Smith, Ted Kingsnorth Had seen attempts from a number of climbers including Tom Rainbow, Ken Palmer and Cad Mullin before Jon succeeded. Cavey Davey
V9 Bovey Woods Slappy slap followed by tricky rockover on crystals. Dave Henderson 04 Craig Williams 2007 Hard on the tips and maybe English 7a. William Shaptor V8+ Bovey Woods Essentially 3 or 4 hard moves up a very slightly leaning wall on poor holds. Dave Henderson 04 None Can look a bit mingin' but is excellent. The green slime brushes of easily! Slotted Wall V7 Bovey Woods Leaning wall on slopers leads to lunge to finish. Dave Henderson 04 More than 5 This Benchmark V7 is one of the best hard problems on The Moor. Slotted Wall Traverse V8+ Bovey Woods A traverse in Slotted Wall from around the arête to the left. Dave Henderson 04 None A long link-up; the finish of Slotted Wall can feel tricky. Slotted Left Hand V8+ Bovey Woods A variation finish to Slotted Wall, traversing a thin break out left. Dave Henderson 04 None A little dirty – maybe easier if cleaner. Walnut Traverse V7 Bovey Woods A fine low level lip traverse with some good heel hook action. Dave Henderson 04 Craig Williams 2008 Possibly low in the grade? Green Dot Traverse V8 Bovey Woods A lip traverse on slopers. Dave Henderson 04 More than 5 The grade can be reduced slightly by using extra holds in the middle and getting good conditions! Super Trooper
V8 Saddle Tor See guide for details! Dave Henderson More than 5 Originally attempted by a team of Richie Patterson, Simon Young, Dave Henderson and Dave Ferguson but with no success… DH snook back the next day – the moor was covered in mist and the crag wasn’t visible from the car park,… fortunately conditions were surprisingly OK! Dancing Queen
V7 Saddle Tor See guide for details! Dave Henderson ’95 ish More than 5 Modern classic – super sustained 6b climbing Super Dancing Trooper V9 Saddle Tor A long link up from start of Super Trooper to DQ then back left to finish of ST. See guide for details! Dave Henderson None A link up with an easy-to-fail-on-last-move! Hidden Low V7 Saddle Tor Low version of classic V4 Hidden Traverse – obviously! See guide for details!
John Gaskins (L to R), Dave Henderson (R to L)
More than 5. One of the Moor's many tricky traverses. Hidden Low there and back V10 Saddle Tor Start on shelf on left, all the way right to god hold, then back to finish moving up onto Hidden Traverse where you would otherwise have to drop down to starting shelf. Dave Henderson 04 Cad Mullin I think A plod with some hard moves. Abba Gold V11 Saddle Tor A long traverse starting on the far left and finishing up Dancing Queen. Dave Henderson 03 Ben Bransby Practically a route – a very long traverse taking in all the best and hardest of Saddle Tor. Problem 15 V7 Saddle Tor Right hand finish to Dancing Queen Dave Henderson Alexis Perry Problem 16 V8 Saddle Tor See guide Dave Henderson None? Foals Chopper Sit Start V9? Saddle Tor John Gaskins Rob Sutton, some geeza Saddle Tor Traverse V10 Saddle Tor Another long traverse! Dave Henderson, Ted Kingsnorth None? Similar to Abba Gold but with a different start and finish. Yorkshire Tea V7 Smallacombe Rocks A powerful and tricky sit start. See problem 23b in guide Craig Williams 2007 None Problem 9 ! V7 Bonehill A bunched low traverse with tricky foot-holds. Dave Henderson About 97 Craig Williams 07, maybe others? The Cube Traverse V8+ Bonehill See guide Dave Henderson About 96 None? The Moor
V9 Bonehill See guide Dave Henderson
Gaskins, Andy Whall... Hard slap which is conditions dependant. English 7a Lowla . V8 Bonehill An extened start to a classic V5 traverse. Dave Henderson About 96 Craig Williams, several? Has been done "there and back". The extended finish is The Cube Traverse V9 Arkem V8 Bonehill Excellent moves. Dave Henderson
Cad Mullin and probably others. A slightly easier sequence is possible for tall climbers! The Dark Side
V8 Bonehill See guide
Dave Henderson About 96
John Gaskins, Cad Mullin The hardest slab (or is it a wall?) on the Moor is very rarely climbed. Innoculation V8+ Bonehill See guide Dave Henderson 2000 ish Craig "Y Biceps" Williams Bum start with a good move or 2. Eliminate. Maybe easy english 7a. Left Hander V7 Bonehill Gain the gnarly "monkey paw" hold on The Wave that is normally used with right hand then lay one on for the break. Dave Henderson Cad Mullin Eliminate variation based on The Wave. Can be linked into from Tsunami to give variation finish at V10. The Wave Traverse V9/10 Bonehill See guide.
More than 5. Tsunami V10 Bonehill The Wave Traverse from low left to finish up the Wave Original. Dave Henderson
More than 5 An extension is possible – go all the way right then back left along same break to finish of The Wave. V11? (DH 200? Floater V9 Bonehill A recent addition taking the higher traverse line on the Wave. Dave Henderson 2007 None Surprisingly tough on the skin and with a section of poor landing. Good, obvious line. Wave Sit Start V8 Bonehill A sit start to the classis Wave problem. Cad Mullin None? A good extension which is a tad reachy. The Green Room V11/12 Bonehill The big link on The Wave starts on the far left and finishes on far right, incorporating various other problems. Dave Henderson 2007 None A long anaerobic challenge. Left Arete of The Scoop V8 Bonehill See guide Dave Henderson About ‘95 More than 5. Conditions and reach dependent (slightly easier if you can keep right foot on "good" hold) Ivory Mountain V9 Bonehill The arête to the left of left arête of The Scoop. Start hanging from rail on left. DH About ‘98 Cad Mullin 2008 Powerful, technical, balancy, dirty-looking and excellent. Rippled Wall Bum Start V9 Bonehill Bum start from from cave under Rippled Wall. John Gaskins Late 90’s ish None A problem that no-one can seem to figure out a feasible sequence. Vixen Tor Traverse V7 Vixen Tor A left to right traverse of block left of Dockers Dilemma Ken Palmer 90's Mullin, Henderson A long traverse! An extended start around the arête to the left is possible (V8) Schmogon V8+ Holwell Tor Bum start up arête beneath Dogon leads to rockover onto slab up left. Dave Henderson 2002 ish None Quite a long problem with a hard start and tricky rockover to finish. First class. Easdon Arete V7 Easdon Rocks The steep arête at Whooping Rock, Easdon Tor. Dave Henderson 2000 ish More than 5. Incredible line. Originally climbed with a duff sequence at V8+. Top tip: heel hook on right. Le Coq Sit start V7 Gidleigh Woods Caedmon Mullin 2004? Dave Henderson, Rob Sutton?, Stu Littlefair? Excellent low start to an existing problem. Easier when you've done it once! Dark Devotion V8+ Gidleigh Woods Cad Mullin 2002? Robin Sutton Featured in Gone West with a suspect-looking couple of semi-naked chaps! Either clipping yourself or spotters into a rope at the base is normal! Tuppy V9 Hound Tor Sit start of left side of Stray Dog boulder. Cad Mullin 2008 None An excellent problem from Mr Mullin. Maybe a bit reachy on the first move. Were you here? V7 Hound Tor Lower start to Wish. See guide for details. Craig Williams Dave Henderson A perfect start to an already classic problem. Poor holds but timing and body position make it a beauty! Alan Smith V9 Hound Tor A hard slap. See guide for details. Dave Henderson 2003 More than 5 The cleaning of additional holds post first ascent has made the top easier but the problem remains V9. English 7a. Jayne V7 Hound Tor The left hand variant of Alan Smith. See guide for details. Dave Henderson 2006 Craig Willaims Only recently noticed but turned out to be an excellent find on slopers. Stray Dog (Gone Defective) V10 Hound Tor See guide Dave Henderson 2004 None A desperate lip traverse on poor holds! Origianlly V9 then upgraded to encourage repeats! Mako V11 Hound Tor The left to right head-height traverse of The Shark's Fin.
Dave Henderson 2007
Mick Adams 2008 A challenging traverse with poor hand grips and footholds. The holds in the middle scoop seem to be improving as crystals break off. The Cream Traverse V8 Hound Tor Slopey lip traverse. Dave Henderson 2000 More than 5. Good conditions make a big difference. Classic. Has been done footless and "there and back and there again" Traverse 57 V7 Cuckoo Rock Problem 57 on topo. Ken Palmer Back in the 60’s Dave Henderson, possibly others Flying Visit V9 Honeybag Tor The flying arete marked as problem on topo. James Pearson 2006 None A few slaps and a crucial footlock. Spotter and mat handy. ....
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