Dartmoor small things…. by Jason Maddick
My top ten boulder problems on The Moor…Check out javu dartmoor guides for more info.
There are many more, which could have made it into this list. Although the ones below made it in due to the brilliant moves, and mostly good landings (which is always helpful.)
1. Dancing Queen V7 6b/c Saddle Tor A quality problem, involving some tricky moves to start, but not to bad after you get the good edge at half height.
2. Rippled Wall V4 6b Bonehill A hard pull to start, leads to some good jugs and the final crank for the top. A bit of height makes this problem feel good every time you do it.
3. The Wave V6 6c Bonehill An excellent piece of rock, which succumbs to some hard pulls to get the "monkey paw" and a scary top out.
4. Bjorn Again V3 6a Saddle Tor Good holds lead up right to a hard pull on the sloping shelf and a step up over the final bulge.
5. Arkem V8 6c Bonehill Sit down start to the rounded arete. Very technical, do you really have to use that sloper on the arete??
6. Crimpanzee V2 5c/6a Ingra Tor. Found on the top NE end of the tor. A fine vertical wall on smallish edges. Away from the crowds.
7. Skin Graft V2 6a Hound Tor Start on the jug under the lip and somehow mantle up. Easier once you've done it once.
8. Shelf Life V7/8 6c Manaton A good problem with just enough small holds to make it possible.
9. No 13 at Bell Tor V3 6a/b A good start up the crack leads to good crystals in the break, and then a long reach or jump to the top jug.
10. Any problem on the hanging flakes boulder at Combeshead Tor v0 - v6. A superb boulder, one of the best on The Moor. Quite high (15feet) and all the problems on it are ace. To top this you will almost always have the whole place to yourself and there are lovely views of Burrator Resevoir - a winner!
The problems below would make up a top twenty, although some cannot get in, due to me having not done them yet ( this is not though lack of trying on some particular lines! )
Scar Tissue V5 6b Honeybag Tor. A short very low traverse with funny crux move. Is also away from the crowds. (see Bell Tor guide)
Yew Jeste V4 6b Manaton Quite high. (Please note that there is no access to this crag!)
Little Prow Traverse V5 6b/c Hound Tor
Cream Traverse V8 6c Hound Tor
Easdon Arete V8 6c Easdon Tor - check your map to find this problem and park sensibly!
Super Trouper V8 6c Saddle Tor
Lowla V7 6b/c Bonehill
Mr Wilson V5 6b Tunhill
Foals Chopper V5 6b Saddle Tor
... All the other quality problems on the moor.
Extended "bolder" problems
The moor is littered with boulders, which sometimes can get a little to high for comfort. For those of you who like a little adrenalin rush try my top ten routes that think their boulder problems. Pads possibly a good idea?
1. Dogon E4 5c Holwell Tor. Brilliant line up the left hand side of the boulder. Balancey climbing up the arete leads to a scary friction move right near the top.
2. Straight No Chaser E5 6b/c Haytor Quarry. After the first 15ft of hard 6b climbing its probably only HVS. Quality.
3. Aerobic Wall E2 5c Hound Tor. The hard move is getting the first break after the overhang.
4. Tools You Can Trust HVS 5a Greator Rocks. A very good slab, but will those chicken heads stay there?
5. Anerobic Crack E2 6a Hound Tor. The finger crack has a hardish move at half height, and a not to nice a landing.
6. Wrong Planet E2 6a. Greator An ace short arete with hard moves to get on and off the jug.
7. Mezzotinter E1 5b Saddle Tor A nice route to warm up for the other problems at this venue.
8. Hot Shot E3 6a Bench Tor. A hard move to start and a tricky finish, with a nasty landing. Ropes?
9. Any route at Great Mis Tor. Routes from very difficult to E1 all with good (hmmm??) landings and away from the crowds. Excellent.
10. Any route at Irishmans Wall Crag. Although not quite so good on the landings side of things, the easier routes make for a pleasant day climbing.
Many thanks to Jason for this! Jason is very blond, and not averse to exploring Dartmoor where he has bouldered up to V8.
Thanks to Boreal for supporting the site!
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