DEVON DEEP WATER SOLOING: Contents
Long Quarry Point Area
Long Quarry Point One of the top Deep Water Soloing Areas with a good selection of routes. Home to 2 of the areas hardest Deep Water Solos with Losing My Religion (originally Fr7b+, then Fr7c after a hold fell off. It has now suffered further hold loss and has not been re-ascended since) and Waiting For Charlie Fr7c
Black Head Limited in terms of number of routes but still well worth a visit.
The traverse from Ansteys Cove to BlackHead is:
Morning Town Ride HVS 5b is the huge traverse starting from Anstey's Cove Beach and finishing at Hope's Nose. An interesting excursion. At low tide this is relatively straighforward, but high tide or a bit of swell can make things interesting!
Daddyhole Area
Daddyhole Main Cliff Is home to a couple of Deep Water Solos on the far left (facing crag) end. A little further round the corner is:
Telegraph Hole Has a handful of solos, ranging from VS to XS 6b. There is also a very fine traverse, The Pinnacle Traverse Continuation, which heads towards the London Bridge area. (ie. towards Paignton). This provides fine climbing of about 5a...up until a tricky zawn type thing to get to the end of The Watchtower - this may be OK at low tide!
The London Bridge Has the highest number of solos in this area, several of which are a bit scary. There are a couple of more amenable ones too!!
Berry Head Area
This is where the bulk of Devon Deep Water Solos are found and is the home to some of the best solos in the country!
Berry Head Quarry A range of grades from 4something through to 6b (Fr 7b). An excellent area with some exceptional routes. Something is possible at any state of the tide.
Coastguard Cliffs Some pleasant easier solos, some of which are quite dangerous!
White Rhino Tea Buttress Fantastic steep jug hauling above very deep water. An any tide venue. White Rhino Tea is the classic cental line at XS 6a S0/1
Rainbow Bridge Mecca! As well as the classic Rainbow Bridge traverse there has been a stack of new solos climbed on the superb cliffs along this section. The Rainbow Bridge is a strong contender for best route ever!!!! A new variable access agreement has been announced for this section.
Magical Mystery Tour Area Some big routes, with complicated access and escape. Covered by a bird restriction from March to the end of July, infringement of which is pretty pricey.
