Intro | Haytor | Haytor Quarry | Lowman | Myrtle Turtle Quarry | Holwell Area | Smallacombe | First Ascent details
Approach From Bovey Tracey follow signs towards Widecombe. These should lead you uphill for a few miles. At the very top of the hill a large lump of granite - Haytor - is visible (to the right of the road). Park in the first car park on the left (toilets and National Park info centre; just passed the hotel).
Follow an obvious paths towards mounds of granite blocks that mark the quarry (if looking up at Haytor these are down to the right). A gate (from the lower mound follow a fence up left on the side facing the car park) leads into the quarry, just after which a steep 30 ft high wall is visible in a bay down to the right.
Sandman E3 5c
The steep line up the right hand side of the wall leads to a heather cornice - the sensible will pre-place a rope from the fence (long way back) to lower off.
"Simon Says Get the Crimp With Your Left" E5 6b
A route up slightly dodgy rock to the 6 ft right of the arete.
Straight No Chaser V7 6c **
The left arete is a classic boulder problem topped with VS climbing to a heathery finish... don't bother topping out! A tad scary so take a mat.
???? E3 5b??
The rather loose arete on the left end of the wall over to the left of Straight No Chaser.
After entering through the gate carry on leftwards and an arete is easily seen above the pool to the right. Cross the pool via an old sleeper:
Pool Arete HVS 5a
The short and slightly overhanging arete on it's left side.
On the opposite side of the largest pond is a 40ft high wall.This normally has a veneer of rotten granite, making the following routes very serious onsight propositions. A quick clean on abseil should get enough off to make them justifiable:
Kaolin E6 6b
Start from a grassy ledge on the right. Step up then left onto the steep slab at a thin horizontal break (crucial gear). Fingery moves lead up the thin seam (often seeping) above to gain the slanting half-height break. Make one or two easier moves (with ground fall potential) to reach a peg up and left. A long stretch gains a break then one more leads to an easier finish.
To the left of Kaolin is an obvious crack which goes at V.Diff. Left again is:
Koala E5 6a
Climbs up to and through the bulge. A bit bold (tiny Friends useful) and again with some crunchy rock.
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