Intro | Haytor | Haytor Quarry | Lowman | Myrtle Turtle Quarry | Holwell Area | Smallacombe | First Ascent details
Home to a limited number of routes and consequently never busy. Also home to some spread out but quality bouldering.
Approach From Bovey Tracey follow signs towards Widecombe. These should lead you uphill for a few miles. At the very top of the hill a large lump of granite - Haytor - is visible (to the right of the road). Park in the first car park on the left (toilets and National Park info centre; just passed the hotel).
Follow an obvious paths towards mounds of granite blocks that mark Haytor Quarry (if looking up at Haytor these are down to the right). Carry straight on a path beyond these until you come across a larger track - the old tramway. From here you should see some rocks on top of the hill in front to the right.
The first routes are found on the north face of highest rock (about 40ft), which is near the top of the hill on the other side from the approach! All of the routes on the buttress are a bit dirty and will be best enjoyed in dry conditions.
Buzzard E1 5b *
In the centre of the wall is an obvious layback flake/crack. Climb to it's top then traverse left and finish up the crack above.
Buzzard Direct E2 6a
From the top of the layback on the original climb the hard wall above.
Oh Dude E4 6b
A highball boulder problem up the thin wall left of Buzzard. Finish up the top crack of Buzzard. Mats useful, as well as a wire brush and abseil rope!
From Buzzard descend the boulder-strewn valley-side towards the river. At the lower extent of the boulders turn left and contour along the hillside and you should see a large boulder up to your left. This can be identified by it's viciously overhanging right side and a central hanging runnel/shallow crack and an alcove to the right.
Gems in a Granite Setting E6 6b *
The hanging runnel/crack. Boulder up the lower arete to gain the deep break and good gear. Stretch up to careful arrnage crucial gear in the runnel (Friends .5 to 1.5). Make unusual moves to get established in the crack then, where it terminates, move out right to a good edge. Scary moves lead up the slab to finish.
Dead Sheep Crack VS
The short crack to the right! The dead sheep has probably rotten away by now!
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