Rock Climbing on Holwell Tor

Intro | Haytor | Haytor Quarry | Lowman | Myrtle Turtle Quarry | Holwell Area | Smallacombe | First Ascent details

HOLWELL AREA
Approach From Bovey Tracey follow signs towards Widecombe. These should lead you uphill for a few miles. At the very top of the hill a large lump of granite - Haytor - is visible (to the right of the road). Park in the first car park on the left (toilets and National Park info centre; just passed the hotel).

Follow an obvious paths towards mounds of granite blocks that mark Haytor Quarry (if looking up at Haytor these are down to the right). Beyond here a path leads directly onto an old tramway. Turn left and shortly after turn tight on another tramway that leads downhill to a quarry on the left at the bottom. The routes in this guide are found in the quarry bay on the right, easily identified by it's impressive, smooth left wall.

The Quarry | The Tor

THE QUARRY

The main face presents a smooth wall of granite, from 40ft high to 60ft at it's highest point.

Obscured By Clouds E6 6b * #
Intense slabby wall climbing protected mostly by RP's. The thin left hand crack. There is an old peg at the top and the line requires a good cleaning session.

On the right side of the wall are two wider cracks. These are currently both filthy and would benefit from a thorough clean.

Fall of Moondust E2 5c #
The left hand crack, gained via the slanting ramp to the right.

Lost World E6 6b #
Climb the direct start up the crack of Fall of Moondust until a difficult traverse can be made leftwards to the base of a hanging crack. Climb this passing a RURP and normal peg.

Saversnake E3 5c
The crackline on the right is climbed direct.

Le Dernier Cri E5/6 6a * #
To the right of the crack of Saversnake is an impressive, smooth wall. Climb the centre of the wall. Soloed but there may be some gear for the top.

Brief Encounter VS 4c
At the back of the the bay is a lichen covered slab. This route takes the left hand corner - has been winter climbed on a top rope.

Jazoo HVS 5b
The right hand corner.

You May be the Face I can't Forget E5 6a ***
The centre of the wall at the back right of the quarry (i.e. opposite the main slab). Probably a controversial upgrade from E4 5c although the crux will feel like 6a unless you're quite tall. No gear and the crux is at the top, 35ft above a spikey boulder landing. A top rope is easy to arrange for those with such ethics!

There are other routes in the quarry - these are detailed in the Nick White South Devon and Dartmoor guide.

About 100 yards beneath the the quarry "is a large boulder with fine views and good tanning spots". The central flake goes at about 4b and the slab to the left is taken by:

Sausage Lossage HVS 5a
Climb the slab on crystals, taking note of the fine lichen en route!

THE TOR

Approach From the base of the quarried bay continue along the tramway. Just around the corner look up the hillside to the left and you should see a cluster of larger boulders, the right hand of which is identified by a prominent roof on the left hand side. Routes are described from right to left:

Hutu HVS 4c
Start at a crack on the right end of the right hand boulder. Climb the crack to gain the slab on the left, then follow a rising line leftwards to finish at the top!

BoBo E2 6a
A bit of a jump to start. The undercut line 10 ft to the left, finishing pretty much direct.

Tsutsi E6 6b * #
Bold and powerful but relatively short! A couple of mats would take the sting out of the start (graded for a matless ascent). Above the roof is a tempting hanging crack. From a boulder beneath the roof teeter right on to the short hanging slab then move steeply up to a thin break. Make a powerful traverse left to the base of the hanging crack (good gear but desperate to place) then climb it direct to the top break and finish above.

To the left is a high, narrow boulder which has a fine high problem up it's slabby face.

Up and left again is a squat looking boulder with a rippled lower half and blank-looking slab on top.

Bobangi E7 6c **
The right arete, using both sides. A superb, short but dangerous route. There is poor gear but it's a bit low to prevent the ground fall from above... both ascents to date were soloed. However, the gear may make retreat less dangerous. Climb the lower wall just left of the arete until the holds good holds run out. Make a long reach to a poor crytal on the right of the arete then carry on up, using the large sloping sidepull on the left, to a precarious finish.

Dogon E4 5c *
Start about 10 ft right of the left arete. Climb the wall to reasonable holds where the boulder changes in angle. Traverse left for a few feet then make a committing step up onto the arete. Whinge a bit then step up right to finish - the crux. The top arete can also be climbed with more use of the left side slab at the same grade.

There is a also a reasonable amount of bouldering scattered around the hillside...

Thanks to Boreal for supporting the site!

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